1UZFE Cranking issue + a few other things.

[MADCIVIC]

Hi All, I have recently installed a 1996 1UZFE UCF21 engine and Auto Trans into a ’99 L200 Ute. (22,16,28,34 pin out on ECU from memory)It uses a factory loom for both ECU and Auto.

I am having trouble starting it using the factory ECU outputs. I have wired the fuel pump controller to the FPR wire on the ecu. The ecu will not produce a crank signal to the relay and therefore won’t start. If I bridge the ecu pin to ground using a test light the pump will run and the motor will start. Once started the ECU will control the pump and I can remove the test light. I see others on here have made their own pump circuits and I wonder if this is the reason.

Once the engine is started it won’t fast rev if you ‘blip’ the throttle but if you slowly increase the throttle it will rev out. If the throttle is ‘blipped’ the ECU tells the fuel pump to cut out. If the throttle is released the pump will turn back on and the car will continue to idle.

I have not done a fault code check and I am not sure if I can. I am assuming mine is OBD2 being 1996. It does have a diagnosis port on the top of the engine though. The check engine light does not come on so I am assuming it’s nothing major. I also wonder if the throttle blip thing is a case of ECU learning. The engine has only run for about 30 minutes since being installed and battery is disconnected each night.

I have also not been able to find the engine temp sensor on the block. Can someone tell me where this lives?

Any help appreciated
Tom

 

[fisho mick]

madcivic go here
http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/i...1uz-engine-vvti-and-non-vvti/page__hl__wiring

easy to follow help me wire up mine stated first turn of the key

 

[gloverman]

Fuel pump ECUs if using them get wired to FPC and DI on the ECU. I find 20 series run best with the fuel pump circuits wired correctly the way toyota intended. If your engine is US spec then should be OBD2. If JDM spec then likely to be OBD1 with a semicircle underdash connector.

 

[MADCIVIC]

Hmm,

I would assume is a JDM one but its now living in a L200 so i havent got any car loom.

I havent got the fuel pump ECU i have just been tryng to run the car off the factory L200 pump relays, using the pin outs from the 1UZ ecu.

I cant get the car to prime the pump while cranking. if i bridge out the fuel pump ecu while cranking the 1UZ ECU will take over as soon as it fires. Currently I am only using the FPR wire which provides this problem. if i also wired the FC wire the pump would continually prime as soon as the ignition is turned on. I dont think this would be correct and potentially dangerous.

The other issue i have is if i rev the engine fast the fuel pump relay will cut out untill the revs drop (this isnt a rev limiter but may be a traction control thing) I have not driven the vehicle so it may be a park and neutral limiting device.

its all a bit weird. i am sure i will work it out.

Thanks for advice.

Tom

 

[samsdad]

Remember on the original car the fuel pump computer (FPC) causes the fuel pump to run as a two speed to reduce passenger cabin noise (the fuel pump and sender are acessed from behind the rear seat as the tank is in the boot between the wheel wells) so below 3000rpm the FPR pin on the ECU is the active ground point for the fuel pump relay. Once the engine speed increases above 3000rpm the active ground point switches to the FC pin (this commands the FPC to increase the pump speed) so how I get around this when wiring an engine package into a Surf or Hilux is to use two fuel pump relays one earthing thru the FPR pin and the other FC. Never had an issue with this and you don't notice the changeover when giving it balls

 

[gloverman]

Cars that ran a fuel pump ECU have FPC and DI on their wiring pinout. Cars with FC and FPR ran a pair of relays as you discribed.