UZZ31 manual conversion, and a few problems.

[SLAMbert]

Alright guys! A while ago i bought a UZZ31 soarer which i planned to cannibalise for another project, but the shell was so good that i decided to just manual this one instead!

So i i bought everything off toyotav8.com and everything was going well, until recently.

My full build can be found here :

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/210610-uzz31-manual-experiment.html

The problem iv run into is purely the clutch hydraulics! I bought a pedal and master cylinder from toyota and fitted them all but from the moment i tried to bleed the system it wanted no part in being a manual.

The fluid was coming through the bleed nipple with each pump as normal but there is absolutly no feel behind the pedal, it keeps dropping to the floor and has to be pulled back up. I tried bleeding it for over a hour the other day with no avail!

Can someone please give me some info as to what could be causing this? I thought it was the master cylinder seals, so i checked those and they 'rebin lint condition. Iv also checked for leaks around the lines and found nothing! The next stage would have to be remove the box again to check the slave so im trying to check everything elae before that has to happen!

Any help would be greatly apreciated!

 

[4U2QUIK]

one of three things, Have you tried a vacuum bleeder? did you make sure you have the lines installed correctly? and, what clutch master cylinder are you using?

Some people have issues bleeding the bearing, and every single one of them figured it out eventually. The first one of mine that I did practically bled itself, whereas the third one I did I couldn't get to bleed manually to save my life. So I used a vacuum bleeder and I haven't had an issue since.

I've also noticed that oem clutch masters seem to be much much harder to bleed than aftermarket ones like the wildwood units on summit racing

 

[4U2QUIK]

oh, and I was looking thru your build, there should have been a flathead bolt that came with the kit that clears the bellhousing so you do not need to grind the bellhousing anywhere at all. but not a big deal.

 

[4U2QUIK]

jza80 clutch master is not the same as the soarer master. you need the soarer master or the land cruiser master. but I personally recommend the wildwood 3/4" bore master.

 

[4U2QUIK]

also the guy who told you the manual box used the same crossmember wasn't lying. he just didn't know that you were using a mkiii supra tranny and not the soarer/mkiv w58 which has a different mount.

 

[SLAMbert]

Ah thats what that bolt was for! Iv been wondering about that, never thought it would be used for that purpose! Really considerate of you mate cheers!

Im using a JZA80 master cylinder as they're apparently the same as a soarer unit and it was easier to source! Also a fair amount of others in England have used them when converting soarers to manual.

I bought a vacuum bleeder today so with any luck i can try it at the weekend!

The lines were the wrong way around to start with as i was using the connector with the roll pin as the bleed line and the fixed linen with the crush washer as the inlet. But i swapped them around as informed.

 

[SLAMbert]

Hi guys, still having problems with this.

Tried a vacuum bleeder kit and it made no difference, it sucked fluid through but the same as manual bleeding, basically mostly air and a little fluid. Also the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop much while bleeding. i also checked with toyota about master cylinders and they told me JZA80 and Soarer cylinders are the same.

Iv got a feeling the pedal may not be pumping correctly so ill post a video up tomorrow showing the movement of it and for your opinions.

Im just trying to go through every possible problem before i remove the box again.

 

[hiluxfan]

Pulling the box is your last resort.
If it's not bleeding then 10:1 it’s a master cylinder problem, not slave.
I see you are using a second hand master. I’ve had a few instances where the master and seals look perfect bit it just doesn’t work!
Also check the lines that there is no kink and gradually run uphill with no sharp u bends or coils where air can get trapped.
You can only say if the slave is ok or not once you get a hard pedal.
Good luck!

 

[ivan129]

I've had this problem

Hi guys, still having problems with this.

Tried a vacuum bleeder kit and it made no difference, it sucked fluid through but the same as manual bleeding, basically mostly air and a little fluid. Also the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop much while bleeding. i also checked with toyota about master cylinders and they told me JZA80 and Soarer cylinders are the same.

Iv got a feeling the pedal may not be pumping correctly so ill post a video up tomorrow showing the movement of it and for your opinions.

Im just trying to go through every possible problem before i remove the box again.

I have a W58 behind my 1UZ Nissan 300zx. I did my conversion a couple of years ago. My thrust cyl. looks very similar to your thrust. I two couldn't get a hard on (hard pedal that is) I was using a brand new alloy 5/8" bore master cylinder. When I pulled it down I found there were two issues, 1) 5/8" was too small and wouldn't push enough volume of brake fluid and 2) there was score in the bore towards the end of the cylinder stroke which caused the cylinder to leak past the piston. I had mine hones and re-sleeved to 3/4" bore and haven't had a problem since. You will definitely need to use a 3/4" bore master cyl anyway. Check it out.. Good luck..

 

[SLAMbert]

Interesting. We had a little play with it again yesterday and things do seem to point to the master not sending enough fluid through.

I can buy a after market wilwood master like this :

http://bit.ly/1cuuVgn with a 3/4 bore.

If anyone has any other suggestions of a good master to use let me know.

Merry christmas!

 

[4U2QUIK]

That's the one I was recommending before. Also if the sc300/mkiv non turbo clutch master does not work. then the master is the issue. We have used several of them successfully in the past.

 

[SLAMbert]

During christmas break i removed the box again to check all the system.

Didnt take long to remove everything. We bled the system from the slave outlets and got pressure in the slave. We then opened the bleed nipple to let the slave retract a little so it slides on the spline and re attached the box.

Tried to bleed the system with the box back on and it wouldnt bleed, pedal kept going straight to the floor again.

Removed the box again and the slave had no pressure so we tried to bleed the system as we did before and we couldnt get any pressure once again.

Im going to be ordering the wilwood slave this week and hopefully this will solve the problem.

 

[SLAMbert]

Right, a little sick of this now. I bought a Wilwood 3/4 bore master cylinder and fitted it in place.

Connected it all up and me a a friend bled the system again, there's no air in the system but the slave has NO PRESSURE whatsoever, i can push it back on the spline with my hand.

This has led me to think the slave might be the problem.

I also switched the line around again to see if that would make a difference.



The left line goes to the master and the right goes to the bleed nipple.

PLEASE someone give me some advice on this! Its caused me and a number of mates numerous headaches.

 

[4U2QUIK]

My only guess is a bad bearing. but that would be a first.

 

[SLAMbert]

My only guess is a bad bearing. but that would be a first.

Iv got the entire hydraulic system off the car tonight and am going to test it at work tomorrow. Ill let you know the outcome.

 

[4U2QUIK]

I'm very curious to find out the results.

 

[4U2QUIK]

is there any chance you used the spacer from the flexplate behind the flywheel?

 

[SLAMbert]

is there any chance you used the spacer from the flexplate behind the flywheel?

Na no spacers, i followed your tutorial. I just dont understand it, its a very simple hydraulic system that just doesnt seem to want to work!

 

[4U2QUIK]

at this point I'm as baffled as you and your friends. I've sold hundreds of these kits, and this is the one of a couple of times where the solution didn't eventually present itself, and I'm pretty sure we've been thru most of the hangups some people run into. So, yeah, I'm really curious to see how your bench test goes.

 

[4U2QUIK]

and, the screw in side is the bleeder side. the roll pin side id the master side of the bearing.