simple engine mods

[azza118]

hi all,
Im in the early stages of doing a conversion into my hilux with a 1uzfe. Im running a manual box with stock computer and the motor is bone stock straigt off a front cut from a soarer that i bought. im told it has around 250hp at the crank in its stock form. Whats the most reliable, value for hp mod i can do to get it going better. I want to run it naturally aspirated. Im thinking extractors, hi comp pistons stuff like that. i got priced about $550 for extractors, and pistons i wouldnt have a clue? i prob dnt wanna spend more than about $2500 ish and id like to get around 330hp I pretty much wanna go as far as i can go with out changeing the ecu and injectors (unless theres a cheep way thats gonna get me a big increase in hp)

Also does the 1uz from the soarer have a oil cooler for the motor? if so or if not a bigger more efficent cooler should get me sum ponys to rite?
Also in doing these mods will i have to get it re enginerd or anything like that?

cheers

 

[Pro]

cooler oil doesn't mean more horsepower - a 1UZ isn't exactly hard on oil. a tranny cooler might extend the life of your tranny though - but then, manuals aren't hard on oil like an auto anyway.

oils are designed to lubricate at a certain temperature, and the different grades change viscosity according to such. running your oil too cold can be just as damaging and overheating your oil.

best value IMO would be a cold air feed, some tuned length headers with an X pipe and a good exhaust. if you want more grunt, sometimes with the 4x4s you can increase the diff ratio from those ludicrously short 4.56 gears (if you have them) to a more sane 3.9 - but that's starting to get into $$$.

changing the injectors will not reap any benefit wthot other mods like cams, higher CR etc. but i would recommend avoiding opening the engine for your budget.

maybe a quality clutch and a lighter flywheel, if you're happy to do the labour yourself. it would reduce the weight the engine sees before the gears, which would increase your throttle response.

 

[Zuffen]

My move would be sort out the best free flow/cool air inlet and tidy up the exhaust.

A good set of custom headers will cost you $2,000.00 as there aren't any off the shelf that will fit the lux. On top of that you needs cats and a decent rear half of the exhaust.

Opening a 1UZ will cost a minimum of $1,000 in labour and gaskets without changing any rods, pistons etc.

250hp in a Lux gives pretty performance.

 

[azza118]

the headders i can get are made for the soarer but they should fit anyway on the lux if not i can mod them my self so that they fit cumming in at $550 aint that bad i recon. Ive got the choice of 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 inch headers? whats the better go? with an X pipe what benifit does that give me? if i run the exaust into a muffler with 2 in 2 out does that make up for the X pipe? the front cut came with cats
Im modifying the snorkel so thats gonna give me all the cool air i need i think, so whats hi comp pistons worth? $1400? plus sum labour so lets say $2500 all up? is it worth it? what type of gains am i going to be getting ? and do i have to change anything to run the pistons e.g tuneing/ injectors? or the stock computer? is there a chip or anything u can get for them?
cheers

 

[Zuffen]

1 5/8" would be my choice unless it was force fed or you were chasing a 9,000rpm engine.

Putting high comp pistons in would cost a minimum of $3,500.00 unless you can do it yourself.

Pistons would be $1500.00+ (remember the exchange rate) and gaskets would run $750.00 throw in $1500.00 labour and you're past me figure without any machining.

I paid $4500.00 to have my longblock assembled by a professional as I figured what he was assembling was worth 5 times what he cost.

An X pipe will provide more gains than a 2 in 2 out muffler. X pipes are quite trick and the angles etc must be correct or you will end up with nothing. Old cats may restrict flow and drop power.

There are no "chips" available for the ECU and interceptors don't give too much bang for your buck.

To get the most for your Dollar I'd suggest a single turbo or supercharger set up running less than 9psi. With this the stock ECU will do the job and give you a nice increase in torque and power. A turbo would also work in well with an exhaust re-think. The turbo option could work out quite reasonable for what you get.

 

[azza118]

So aslong as i keep it under 9psi i can keep it on stock internals?. i dont want to go down that path tho, id prefer to keep it naturaly aspirated. how much hp do u think i could get runing hicomp pistons and a good exaust set up? is it going to get me past the 300 mark? and with the X pipe are we talking a big diffrence in gains over a 2in 2 out muffler? by the way how are the angles worked out? id still need to run a muffler tho wouldnt i. how much for an X pipe u recon?

 

[azza118]

by the way, whats the rev limit set at on the motor stock?

 

[Turbo4L]

Hey Mate,

I would just forget about the high comp root.
Just get the motor in and running with whatever exhaust you can and the stock computer.
If its not enough power then look at getting a good computer intalled that will allow the rev limiter to be raised and the air flow meter to be deleted.
That alone would cost about 3K for a new haltech platinum or there abouts.
Then you can do a new intake plenum with single 90mm or go itbs.
Raising the comp will only limit you to what fuel you can use and as for the power you will get with a stock computer is anyones guess.

Hope this helps

 

[azza118]

yer cheers,
pretty much got sum cash and wanna spend it on the motor and wondering whats gonna give me the best value to be running it N/A whats the stock rpm rev limit set at?
thanks mate

 

[Zuffen]

Personally for the dollars I'd go forced injection.

Getting 400hp with N/A will give you a high comp engine that needs to rev to perform and cost you $10,000+. You drive a small truck so it won't ever perform like a racecar.

Dollar for dollar FI will beat N/A on our engines.

From memory 7,200 is the cutoff.

 

[azza118]

yeah well thats why i dont want to FI it. id b happy with another 50-70hp

 

[Zuffen]

If your after another 50-70hp I'd go headers and a 21/2" system plus a cold air intake.

Thats about what you can do without spending big money.

If you can spring for an aftermarket ECU (even used) you will get up to 100hp from those two mods and the ECU.

An aftermarket ECU will let you get rid of the AFM which will improve flow as well.

 

[XR8tt]

Agree !! Forced induction doesn't loose any low end power and can be very streetable!!
No one has bought up cams..
Good exhaust and cam,valve spring combination would be my go.. Esp if final drive ratio is a little short..
Don't go too wild on cam specs, you can keep the std shim over bucket..
If base circle is near std.. As in "billet" Kelford cams..
Once you open these engines.. TRUST me the $$$ starts..
Don't worry about cooler .. Just add some wings on the steel section of sump where you can, increasing oil capacity..

 

[azza118]

just headders and exaust and cold air intake will get me 50hp???
whats a good but cheep ecu just for running a N/A engine? and how much?

 

[XR8tt]

Depends on the tuner you go to??
My fav is EMS Stinger or it bigger brother 8860..
http://roccosperformance.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=50
Haltech are right up there with Autronic..
Just be aware of customer service..
Adaptronic , Link, as said talk to the guy YOU chose to tune ..
Here's some more info..
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=102

 

[stevechumo]

It's not easy to get 50 rwhp without a standalone ECU. The piggyback ECU won't really help that much. The ECU that I see that works good so far is the AEM Supra TT 93-98. I sat in MitchP's SC400 that has the custom exhaust, stock headers, a true cold air intake, and the AEM that he tuned by himself. The car is very powerful at all RPM. He said the car is dynoed for 243 rwhp that's about 337 bhp based on the average of 28% loss to this SC400 at a high mileage. Most stock old SC400 is dynoed at 180 rwhp.

 

[XR8tt]

It's not easy to get 50 rwhp without a standalone ECU. The piggyback ECU won't really help that much. The ECU that I see that works good so far is the AEM Supra TT 93-98. I sat in Mitch's SC400 that has the custom exhaust, stock headers, a true cold air intake, and the AEM that he tuned by himself. The car is very powerful at all RPM. He said the car is dynoed for 243 rwhp that's about 337 bhp based on the average of 28% loss to this SC400 at a high mileage. Most stock old SC400 is dynoed at 180 rwhp.

The original poster is from Australia.. The ECU's above are on par or better than AEM, They are made and designed here..The guy who designed Motec has gone it alone. Now sells his own ECU Autronic which is up with the worlds best.. They are all actually stand alone ECU..
Stand alone comes good when other mods are done..
With the 1UZ cam's would be my first choice after cia and exhaust..
Not certain but there seems a tie up between AEM and Engine Management Systems [EMS]..

 

[cribbj]

Not certain but there seems a tie up between AEM and Engine Management Systems [EMS]..

The AEM is descended from the Gems unit in the UK, but AFAIK, it's been under solely AEM development for the last few years. I haven't heard of any tie up between AEM and EMS; what have you seen or heard?

It's true that the bigger EMS box (8860) is the same box marketed by various entities around the world, including the three listed below in the USA. Now all these people have some sort of tie up, based on this one EMS, but no one will say who was the original developer of the box. If you have any ties with the EMS guys, it would be interesting to know the development history of this thing. It certainly seems to be a very capable ECU, and it's been discussed here several times in the past.

034EFI by 034 Motorsport: http://www.034motorsport.com/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=n0il85hosmkh5famca26egh5f1

ECU-422 and 882 by Redline Weber: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Fuel_Injection/ecu/ecu.htm

ECU-882 by Pantera EFI: http://www.lola332.com/ECU882main.htm (same name of ECU as Redline Weber's)

 

[XR8tt]

I guess this is where AEM comes from ??

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/forum/

 

[cribbj]

Hehehe, I'd seen that logo before and wondered if they realised there was "another" AEM. By now, I'm sure they do, but perhaps the play on words is good for both companies.

Here's where the AEM & GEMS tie up comes from: http://www.cartechbooks.com/cartech/contentfiles/260.pdf

Also, the Aussie AEM stands for: Automotive Engine Management,

while the USA AEM stands for: Advanced Engine Management