cam pulley alignment

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chilkoot

New Member
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31
Location
NC
I'm 3/4 of the way through my timing belt/water pump change. the water pump and and thermostat housing are reinstalled, but while I was trying to get the timing belt back on I encountered a challenge:

before I removed the old timing belt I set it to TDC, with the L and R cam pulleys at 11 and 1 o'clock, respectively. They have not been touched until today. When I was putting the timing belt back on I tried to spin the L cam pulley a degree or two clockwise to get it to the correct tooth on the belt. I did it by hand, and there was a little resistance but as soon as the resistance gave the pulley spun to almost 12 o'clock. I tried to continue turning it clockwise thinking that spinning it counter clockwise would damage the valves, but I met a lot of resistance when the pulley got to 12 o'clock, a far cry away from a full revolution. This was spinning by hand so that I didn't damage anything if I were doing it wrong, I haven't taken a wrench to the cam pulley to try and spin it yet. The pulley now sits about 30-40 degrees past where I need it, is it safe to use a wrench to push it past the resistance (clockwise of course), or should there even be resistance in the first place turning the cam pulley? Will loosening the spark plugs on that bank help the cam pulley spin more freely?

Any advice is appreciated. After I get the timing belt back on it should be smooth sailing. I'll post a long thread on my experience with this DIY once I have everything back together and running, there are some omissions in the LexLS tutorial that make it insufficient for a full guide unless you have lots of patience and time.

edit: this is a '93 by the way, so if it's not interference why am I getting resistance on the cam pulley? Does it really take that much force to open and close the valves? am I correct in assuming that the cam pulleys should be able to spin freely (clockwise of course) without a timing belt present?
 
The resistance is from the valve springs pushing against the cam lobe so what you're describing is normal. Valve spings are very stiff so use a wrench to get it where you need it.
 
sweet, thanks. I was advised elsewhere to just crank it counter-clockwise one full o'clock until the mark matches up, bad idea? why is it that it's advised never to turn the crank counter-clockwise; is it a cam or crank issue?
 
I think it harks back to the dark ages.

If you ratate the crank anticlockwise it will take up all the slack in the cam drive the wrong way.

Back in the 50's it wasn't unusal to see cam drives with a few degrees of slop so when you rotated clockwise you had a regular reading but when you then rotated the crank anti-clockwise you had the cam mistimed to the crank.
 
are the lobes on the cams sloped the same on both sides, so that the open the valves correctly spinning either way?
 


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