Timing Belt Alignment with Cam Pulley Marks

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I've just had a detailed look at your pics and to me it seems both cams are correct but rotated 180 degrees from where they should be (for no1 piston on the compression) regardless of what the white pens marks indicate, meaning the timing belt is timed correctly.

It's just that the engine is set at no1 exhaust stroke. Rotote the crank a full turn and the true alignement marks should all line up. Can't explain why the pens marks are incorrect(on one bank). Just use some solvent and get rid of the pen marks, you certainly don't need them.

I'll post a pick of when I rebuilt my engine. It's high res so you can zoom in a bit.

Please note the belt is one or two teeth out(I rectified this later). At the time I was still figuring out how to get the belt on and timed corectly at the same time.

Note the position of the letters R and L (on the end of gear) and where the little notches are cut out of the cam gear and also the alignment marks on the black plate behind. These little marks are a line pressed in to the steel plate. Hope that make sense. Line all these up and you can't go wrong, though they should be correct with your old belt. This engine is easily the best I've played with in regards to putting it back together without a manual. Every camshaft and bearing cap is individually marked too so you can't go wrong.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: Also note there's an indicator mark behind the crankshaft sprocket that aligns with the crankshaft woodruff key. Look closely behind the belt and crank sprocket and you should see it(around 1 oclock). This way you don't have to slide the balancer on everytime to check the crank's position

[img=http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1993/timingbelt0ix.th.jpg]
 
MacroP - Thanks very much for the information. I understand about the line pressed in the black plate. As a matter of fact, I made a mark on the plate and the pulley showing the position before I pulled the t-belt off.

tbelt-waterpump%20030%20(Medium).jpg

That makes sense that a rotation of the crank will result in something different up top (since the crank gear is smaller diameter than the cam pulleys) I'll try to give that a god tonight...
 
Thanks for the link David. That helps with the explanation of the required alignment. In a nutshell, from what you and Marco are telling me, the notches override the paint marks, right?
 


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