want a 1000 hp tt 1uzfe

[ash]

bump for updates

 

[ash]

Your right, OS valves wont do a thing w/o head work. If they were slapped into a stock head w/ cams at the bare minimum the lash issue would be solved for a lot less than OEM toyota shim prices or custom. Then when the ports get cnc'd, those larger valves come into play. At 1000bhp i would assume the heads are getting work done besides just the cams?

you would be surprized if i told you what engines still have STD valve sizes in them, and making double the hp of most engines on here..

 

[XR8tt]

Yea 4 valve heads breath !!!

 

[spf_lexus]

Thats crazy ash. I guess if it works dont fix it! I guess the port/cam profile are the real secrets eh?

 

[bmech211]

Hey gents, I have a question concerning head work on a boosted 1UZ. I know you all mentioned not seeing much of a gain running over sized valves, and that money is better spent on porting etc.

I remember being told, back in my Supra days, that the 2JZ responds well to cleaning up the last 1/2" or so of the ports just before the valve. Namely opening this area on the exhaust port to 85% of the valve diameter, and 90% of the valve diameter on the intake port. The science behind it sounded pretty logical and those numbers have always stuck in my head. Do you all think this would be advantageous on the 1UZ heads running longer duration/higher lift cams?

 

[ash]

Hey gents, I have a question concerning head work on a boosted 1UZ. I know you all mentioned not seeing much of a gain running over sized valves, and that money is better spent on porting etc.

I remember being told, back in my Supra days, that the 2JZ responds well to cleaning up the last 1/2" or so of the ports just before the valve. Namely opening this area on the exhaust port to 85% of the valve diameter, and 90% of the valve diameter on the intake port. The science behind it sounded pretty logical and those numbers have always stuck in my head. Do you all think this would be advantageous on the 1UZ heads running longer duration/higher lift cams?

pull the intake and exhasut valves out..
put your finger in on the SHORT turn.. ( thats the sharp radius, not the roof of the port)
you will fell a sharp edge about 5/8's of inch in
get ride of that edge, and have a smooth transition into the chamber
that will fix alot of the problems
its just a casting 'lump' on the entry and exit of the valve seat..

 

[FoPar]

nothing wrong with standard valves, we still run them. heads aren't even ported much, just a tickle up/mild port. it's not always bigger is better, its getting them efficient and picking the right cam.

 

[ash]

nothing wrong with standard valves, we still run them. heads aren't even ported much, just a tickle up/mild port. it's not always bigger is better, its getting them efficient and picking the right cam.

^^^
what pretty boy said....
port match
and
short turn 'lump' removal

will improve things nicly..
takes about 4 beers to do whole job..

 

[FoPar]

as ash said, takes bugger all, depends on how fast u drink ur beers even a little bit makes a big improvement.

 

[XR8tt]

as ash said, takes bugger all, depends on how fast u drink ur beers even a little bit makes a big improvement.

As with most 4 valve engines.. Hardly rocket science...

 

[resurectedvikin]

Wanting to replicate this 1000 go build. Just wondering how you port match? If it could be explained? And can anyone post successful cam profiles?

 

[FoPar]

Wanting to replicate this 1000 go build. Just wondering how you port match? If it could be explained? And can anyone post successful cam profiles?

port matching is pretty much making sure all ports line up perfectly. sometimes there can be casting faults etc etc. this link probably explains it better http://www.mei-inc.com/machine/port_matching.htm there are gains to be found plenty of ways.

u won't find many people giving out cam profiles plus cams should be worked out after u know how much the heads flow etc there are alot of variances people use in deciding what cams to use, to really get the most out of them. what works on one engine doesn't mean it will work the same on another.

 

[resurectedvikin]

this thread has been more than helpful, you guys are so informative! I am putting the 1uz into a 1970's corolla, building the motor then swapping it in. what transmission do you guys run with this kind of horsepower?

so for boost i'd need the following:

argo rods
ross pistons
balance the crank
port the head
get cams, dependant on flow of head
l19 head stud set
arp hardware for pistons

anything need to be done about the oil system?

also are there any single turbo applications that can make this horsepower?

 

[FoPar]

this thread has been more than helpful, you guys are so informative! I am putting the 1uz into a 1970's corolla, building the motor then swapping it in. what transmission do you guys run with this kind of horsepower?

so for boost i'd need the following:

argo rods
ross pistons
balance the crank
port the head
get cams, dependant on flow of head
l19 head stud set
arp hardware for pistons

anything need to be done about the oil system?

also are there any single turbo applications that can make this horsepower?

2-speed Powerglide with Neal Chance converter. made a bigger oil pan, other than that nothing else done to the oil system, still uses factory oil pump. shouldn't need L19 head studs. you could easily make the same power with a single setup.

 

[resurectedvikin]

i'm talking for the 1000hp mark. no l19 headstuds? man i needed those in my dinky 400whp mr2 turbo (stock bottom end).

no grout needed....and a two speed powerglide...any internal work to the 2 speed? building my first big performance drag car! i am stoked!

What type of trim turbo do you guys recommend for this turbo app, i'm trying to keep cylinder pressure low, so a big laggy mother would be great!

 

[FoPar]

i'm talking for the 1000hp mark. no l19 headstuds? man i needed those in my dinky 400whp mr2 turbo (stock bottom end).

no grout needed....and a two speed powerglide...any internal work to the 2 speed? building my first big performance drag car! i am stoked!

What type of trim turbo do you guys recommend for this turbo app, i'm trying to keep cylinder pressure low, so a big laggy mother would be great!

if ur lifting heads then there is something wrong, id look at the tune. we just run standard ARP head studs, no expensive L19 required, no need to be drilled and bigger head studs put in. boost cut is set at 35psi, tuned to 30-31psi. they haven't lifted at all *touch wood*

no grout is needed. we even run the factory main studs, factory bearings, factory valves, shim over bucket, revs up to 8500rpm no probs. still uses the factory lower manifold.

alot of people come onto these forums saying u need to do this n this yet im not sure how many have made this power and what experience they have. if they say they do it cos it lasts well its also crap, car has seen about 50 dyno pulls, 100 1/4 mile passes, 4 or 5 cruises were the car was thrashed hard, about 15-20000km of street driving and its still holding together.

my suggestion is get someone who knows what they are doing to build the motor and to tune it. those are the 2 most important things.

twin 57mm turbo's will get u to around 1000hp and still get up on boost very well. we run twin 62's .7 compressor T3 1.06 rear, still gets up on boost very well.

here is some video of the car in action, inside cam n outside http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pj0vPzWYThc

 

[resurectedvikin]

What about a single turbo application? Sorry on iPhone. Short response. I run l19 on the mr2 because I had bad luck with arp. Snapped a head stud while torquing to the spec. Couldn't beleive it. Had wrench calibrated too just before hand. Then I was frustrated so I splurged and got L19

 

[FoPar]

a custom Precision 70-76mm would do quite nicely, not sure how heavy the car is your putting it in, but a 1000hp is very possible with a turbo of that size.

 

[resurectedvikin]

well it would be aa 1971-1979 corolla, gutted, and stripped with only necessary reinforcement, cage, shute, the safety gear. streeted, and strip


also adding questions:

what are you guys doing for fuel at this hp level (pump, fuel rail, injector size, fuel -an line size, regulator 1:1 rising but what size output?) and also what are we doing with the ignition?

 

[FoPar]

well it would be aa 1971-1979 corolla, gutted, and stripped with only necessary reinforcement, cage, shute, the safety gear. streeted, and strip


also adding questions:

what are you guys doing for fuel at this hp level (pump, fuel rail, injector size, fuel -an line size, regulator 1:1 rising but what size output?) and also what are we doing with the ignition?

running E85, 3 x Bosch 044's fuel pumps. Barry Grant Hot Rod pump into 3L surge tank. SX regulator, i think they are -8 fuel lines (-8 is plenty big, im running them on my car which will be 1600hp methanol) Bosch 1600cc Indy Blue injectors. ignition before was just dual post M&W coils and the EMS igniter. that was fine for 27-28psi started breaking down at 29psi. now we run an EMS CDI on it.