want a 1000 hp tt 1uzfe

[ash]

this thread has been more than helpful, you guys are so informative! I am putting the 1uz into a 1970's corolla, building the motor then swapping it in. what transmission do you guys run with this kind of horsepower?

so for boost i'd need the following:

argo rods
ross pistons
balance the crank
port the head
get cams, dependant on flow of head
l19 head stud set
arp hardware for pistons

anything need to be done about the oil system?

also are there any single turbo applications that can make this horsepower?

if you have not bought the argo rods and pistons, save your money
here you go:
scat 4340 chev small journal rods , 5.7 long , arp 2000 bolts
get a piston made, with .927 wrist pin ( not .866 )
this will also give you alittle more height from pin to top of piston, and get the rings into a neater package.
get the crank ground to small journal big end size

reason:
rods will be cheaper.. cost me $450-$500 a set
Crank grind cost under $400
small block chev bearings are cheaper than Lexus ones
more sizes of bearings available to set up clearances
wrist pin is stronger

know of engines with 100's of passes with 45+ psi boost and 9500+ rpm with these simular combos.

good luck with your build

 

[ash]

What about a single turbo application? Sorry on iPhone. Short response. I run l19 on the mr2 because I had bad luck with arp. Snapped a head stud while torquing to the spec. Couldn't beleive it. Had wrench calibrated too just before hand. Then I was frustrated so I splurged and got L19

as fopar said, save your $$ on L19 head studs
arp is enough

sounds like you got a dodgy arp ?

 

[ash]

well it would be aa 1971-1979 corolla, gutted, and stripped with only necessary reinforcement, cage, shute, the safety gear. streeted, and strip


also adding questions:

what are you guys doing for fuel at this hp level (pump, fuel rail, injector size, fuel -an line size, regulator 1:1 rising but what size output?) and also what are we doing with the ignition?

if you dont like Fopar's CDI
there is a company here makes a balancer, with MSD SBC crank trigger wheel bolt pattern, and you can use msd 6 , msd 7 etc ignition.
you will require a front mount distrubitor of sorts to phase the spark.
alittle extra work, but its another option.

 

[ash]

if ur lifting heads then there is something wrong, id look at the tune. we just run standard ARP head studs, no expensive L19 required, no need to be drilled and bigger head studs put in. boost cut is set at 35psi, tuned to 30-31psi. they haven't lifted at all *touch wood*

no grout is needed. we even run the factory main studs, factory bearings, factory valves, shim over bucket, revs up to 8500rpm no probs. still uses the factory lower manifold.

alot of people come onto these forums saying u need to do this n this yet im not sure how many have made this power and what experience they have. if they say they do it cos it lasts well its also crap, car has seen about 50 dyno pulls, 100 1/4 mile passes, 4 or 5 cruises were the car was thrashed hard, about 15-20000km of street driving and its still holding together.

my suggestion is get someone who knows what they are doing to build the motor and to tune it. those are the 2 most important things.

twin 57mm turbo's will get u to around 1000hp and still get up on boost very well. we run twin 62's .7 compressor T3 1.06 rear, still gets up on boost very well.

here is some video of the car in action, inside cam n outside http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pj0vPzWYThc

^^
bump for good advice

 

[XR8tt]

Good informative info guys.. E85 seems to keep engines alive..
Have friend with a SOHC Ford with std rotating assembly with 480 rwkw/ 20 Lb boost on engine with 200.000klmrs.. It wouldn't do that power level and be safe on ULP..

If 12/ 13mm studs can be fitted at a good price then go for it...
In my case it only cost me the $$ of the studs...

 

[FoPar]

Good informative info guys.. E85 seems to keep engines alive..
Have friend with a SOHC Ford with std rotating assembly with 480 rwkw/ 20 Lb boost on engine with 200.000klmrs.. It wouldn't do that power level and be safe on ULP..

If 12/ 13mm studs can be fitted at a good price then go for it...
In my case it only cost me the $$ of the studs...

you may have jinxed your mate car ok? i didnt see it but heard he damaged it.

 

[XR8tt]

you may have jinxed your mate car ok? i didnt see it but heard he damaged it.

Aha yea not wrong...
Drive shaft and rear housing on C4...
Seems to lift drive shaft it hits tunnel..
Alloy shaft hit loop I guess when rear section of C4 broke..
The top section broke away which seems that drive shaft lifting is the problem OR diff is bowing ??
Yet there's 70mm clearance..
I guess it's a suspension geometry thing..???
This part is new to me and Michael ...
Was told to have 3* down on pinion but made it worse...
Time talk to suspension guru ....

 

[FoPar]

Aha yea not wrong...
Drive shaft and rear housing on C4...
Seems to lift drive shaft it hits tunnel..
Alloy shaft hit loop I guess when rear section of C4 broke..
The top section broke away which seems that drive shaft lifting is the problem OR diff is bowing ??
Yet there's 70mm clearance..
I guess it's a suspension geometry thing..???
This part is new to me and Michael ...
Was told to have 3* down on pinion but made it worse...
Time talk to suspension guru ....

i just saw the video from madmanproductions on youtube, it made a mess on the track. hopefully it won't be out of commission too long.

 

[JBrady]

if ur lifting heads then there is something wrong, id look at the tune. we just run standard ARP head studs, no expensive L19 required, no need to be drilled and bigger head studs put in. boost cut is set at 35psi, tuned to 30-31psi. they haven't lifted at all *touch wood*

no grout is needed. we even run the factory main studs, factory bearings, factory valves, shim over bucket, revs up to 8500rpm no probs. still uses the factory lower manifold.

alot of people come onto these forums saying u need to do this n this yet im not sure how many have made this power and what experience they have. if they say they do it cos it lasts well its also crap, car has seen about 50 dyno pulls, 100 1/4 mile passes, 4 or 5 cruises were the car was thrashed hard, about 15-20000km of street driving and its still holding together.

my suggestion is get someone who knows what they are doing to build the motor and to tune it. those are the 2 most important things.

twin 57mm turbo's will get u to around 1000hp and still get up on boost very well. we run twin 62's .7 compressor T3 1.06 rear, still gets up on boost very well.

here is some video of the car in action, inside cam n outside http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pj0vPzWYThc

VERY impressive video there!

8 second street car on full exhaust! Wow!

 

[FoPar]

VERY impressive video there!

8 second street car on full exhaust! Wow!

thanks, hopefully we can get a bit more out of it. before we put the higher comp engine in. car is driven to the track, does around 200km's of driving a week. stock leaf spring suspension on the back, it's pretty much as it rolled off the showroom floor apart from the 9''.

 

[FoPar]

if you have not bought the argo rods and pistons, save your money
here you go:
scat 4340 chev small journal rods , 5.7 long , arp 2000 bolts
get a piston made, with .927 wrist pin ( not .866 )
this will also give you alittle more height from pin to top of piston, and get the rings into a neater package.
get the crank ground to small journal big end size

reason:
rods will be cheaper.. cost me $450-$500 a set
Crank grind cost under $400
small block chev bearings are cheaper than Lexus ones
more sizes of bearings available to set up clearances
wrist pin is stronger

know of engines with 100's of passes with 45+ psi boost and 9500+ rpm with these simular combos.

good luck with your build

chev parts in a Toyota? that's almost as bad as putting a Toyota engine in a Ford

if you can save a few bucks and get the same results, then why not do it. the bigger wrist pin is also a very good option especially for the high rpm/hp/boost guys.

 

[ash]

chev parts in a Toyota? that's almost as bad as putting a Toyota engine in a Ford

if you can save a few bucks and get the same results, then why not do it. the bigger wrist pin is also a very good option especially for the high rpm/hp/boost guys.

lol..
how u been?

i did a fair bit of testing on the .866 wrist pin vs .927
making the .866 pin thicker / and out of different materials was dearer than just using the all ready available .927 pins.

some fuel harlies/ honda nitro bikes still use the .866 pins , but cost was HUGE. The larger dia pins where stronger and lighter..

 

[FoPar]

lol..
how u been?

i did a fair bit of testing on the .866 wrist pin vs .927
making the .866 pin thicker / and out of different materials was dearer than just using the all ready available .927 pins.

some fuel harlies/ honda nitro bikes still use the .866 pins , but cost was HUGE. The larger dia pins where stronger and lighter..

been good mate u?

stronger and lighter, u can't complain

 

[XR8tt]

Yep even if they interfere with oil control ring..
Strength first !!!!

 

[BLOWN EA]

hey guys been a while since i posted up
just to keep you guys up to date still got the same engine in the car with the standard bottom end and have had it re tuned to 20 psi putting out about 650-700 hp at the wheels.
the car is a hand full on the road if i can keep it away from the kerbs.

with the new engine combo i have sorced all the parts
eagle rods
ross pistons
l19 stud kit
cometic head gaskets
rings
gudgeon pins
2000cc injectors

build will start after christmas will keep you guys up to date
and will post some videos of the car

 

[ash]

hey guys been a while since i posted up
just to keep you guys up to date still got the same engine in the car with the standard bottom end and have had it re tuned to 20 psi putting out about 650-700 hp at the wheels.
the car is a hand full on the road if i can keep it away from the kerbs.

with the new engine combo i have sorced all the parts
eagle rods
ross pistons
l19 stud kit
cometic head gaskets
rings
gudgeon pins
2000cc injectors

build will start after christmas will keep you guys up to date
and will post some videos of the car

there is 1300-1500 hp engines running with just ARP head studs , not L19 out there..
worth saving your $$$ here ??

 

[BLOWN EA]

Yeh I just went top shelf on the stud kit

 

[FoPar]

Yeh I just went top shelf on the stud kit

a big part of it comes down to the tune. not all tuners are created equally. i have heard alot of guys lifting heads and drilling bigger holes etc, but, if the tune is right that shouldn't be a problem.

 

[BLOWN EA]

the guy i am getting to build my engine was the guy that put the yellow celica together in perth a few years ago that ran 8 sec passes

he has been doing all the tuning on the car at the moment

 

[Mnile954]

Put a 2jz-gte in it and spend half the money!!!
I've made 740rwhp with a single, stock head, stock bottom end, hks VPC and big intercooler