How to replace front upper control arm
Sockets needed: 17mm, 19mm,
Some type of press or 2 arm gear puller
Needle nose pliers
Wire brush on a table grinder or sand
Knife and or blow torch
Remove 17mm nut holding on ball joint.
There is a pin you have to remove first then you can take
off the nut.
You have to take out the shocks to get
to the control arm bolts. This is actually very
simple. First remove the three nuts holding the shock
to the car in the engine bay. Then remove the bolt at
the bottom of the shock, itís under
121 foot-pounds of torque, so this wonít be easy. Nuts
in engine bay are 12mm, and bolt for strut rod is 19mm.
Removing the shock itself is quite easy
after you have all 4 bolt/nuts removed, you just have you
play with it so it can come out, donít worry youíll get it.
Remove both bolts holding on the rest
of the control arm.
After you remove the two bolts use something to tie that rod
to the shock so it doesnít pull on that line going to your
You have to remove the bolt/ball join
so you can take off the control arm completely. On the
left side I hit it with a hammer and it came out with much
difficulty. Or you could use the 2 jaw pulley and push
it out, when I did it this way it made a HUGE pop and scared
me half to death when I came out.
Take off the dust boots on each
bearing, there are 2 on each. Put the control arm in a
vise and take that 26 mm socket and stick it like I have in
In the picture here I used washers, but be warned these are
NOT strong enough and the pushing arm went through them and
grinded them to complete and utter distortion. So when
you do this get a thick piece of metal and use that.
Now just push out the bearing, it will
be hard but very possible. If you need more leverage
on your wrench use a bar and stick the handle of the wrench
in it to make the handle a lot longer.
As you get to the end it seems
impossible to press it out, so youíre going to have to start
cutting the rubber that is exposed and if that doesnít work
take a torch and just torch it.
The bearing will have rubber on it
obviously and you will have to take it ALL off
Make it look like these
Youíre going to have to cut out the
rest of the bushing still in the control arm (it is a metal
ring). Take a sawzaw or a
metal saw and do like soÖ
Cut the ring just enough so it can free
the pressure and you can just tap out the bushing.
Now you have to put in the new bushing.
The KEY to this part is make sure
you put it in just as far as the old one. Make sure
the gap is the same for both.
You have to now press in the old
bearing into this bushing. The only thing you have to
worry about is that the bushing doesnít get pressed in while
you press in the bearing. After you get the bearing in
about ľĒ then you donít have to worry about the bushing
getting pressed in any more because the pressure the bushing
now has against the inner walls is just far too great to
overcome. A good way to keep the gap when youíre first
pressing in the bearing is to put washers in the gap.
If you do this make sure you have them in at least 3 parts
around the bushing so the pressure is even. I put some
grease on the bearing to make pressing it into the bushing a
After you get all this done you have
to put back on the dust boots. However only one boot
will fit, you have to cut the other oneís outmost ring off
so it will fit inside the bushing.
I took this opportunity to repaint the
control arm thatís why mine looks so shiny.
Just another view
Now its time to test it all and make
sure it fits, if it doesnít make note of which bearing
and/or bushing has to go in/out and the distances, donít
worry this doesnít take long. You have to torque the
bolts when putting them all in. The two control arm
bolts take 121 ft-lbs, the ball joint nut takes 80 ft-lbs,
and the bolt for the shock takes 136. The upper part
of the shock doesnít really matter; just make it very snug
on there and your set.