truck will idle and run fine untill i floor the pedal?????

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Juddy27677

New Member
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16
Location
Sunshine Coast
have a uzs 131 v8 in my 4runner all is good on that front with fitment and that stuff but when i hit the pedal i get a kind of cut out and what sounds like a massive amount of air heading back into the air box...( not sure about the airs travel path but definatley air there somewhere you can hear it clear as mud...) then check engine light comes on as well....
any ideas out there????

please no up-sells
please no time wasters

im genuinely looking to solve this problem and not be led around the garden path with a million bits of useless info that get me no where..
im sorry if thats rude but its what im looking for...
 
hey bud.. no havent really looked in that direction with the ecu... whats the go there how does the code thing work... something about flashes?? please explain??
 
sounds like the same issue i had on my hiace conversion... mine was that i had piped part of the intake wrong... have you got the pipe from the IACV (about a inch wide pipe coming out in front of the inlet manifold) conected between the air flow meter and the throttle body??? i just wonder cos i put a little filter on mine thinking it just drew clean air but i also had the noisy air thing you mentioned... i worked it out after plumbing in all the factory plastic intake stuff...

good luck anyways....
 
im interested in your findings. im having the same issues. runs great, idles great, but anything over 60ish% load and the engine cuts out. i put an injector node on my injectors, and hooked up the timing light to see whats going on when this happens. turns out, its dropping the injectors, but the ignition remains. im also getting a code 41. however ive set, reset, and set 3 different TPS's. all ohm out to spec.

sounds like were experiancing the same issues.
 
hey shoob
yeah mate i did the fault code check and thats the same as i have... basically our engines are in a fail safe mode.. i just sent a message to the guy who did my wire up job and honestly.. he is one clued up mofo so i should know whats goin on soon. the code is for throttle position sensor(main) and i just wanna hear from my guy before i go replacing it...
looking at the wire diagrams the throttle position sensor speaks to a few other components within the system so im thinking when my harness was chopped it isnt getting a signal from somthing so its thrown the engine into fail safe... ill def keep ya posted bro as thats what this forum stuff is all about as far as i'm concerned. maybe something needs to be bridged or wired so components can speak to each other... im just a apprentice at the moment and this honestly is beyond me but i think with the right info and guidence ill sort it bro.. ive checked the air flow meter and the throttle position sensor for voltage and resistance and there fine but maybe the signal side is where the drama is... if ya find out anything let me know also bud... cheers
 
i did the same. i followed all wires from the ecu to the sensors, cross checked continuity between the vta1 and vta2 as well as the afm. the blue/red wire has full continuity, with no resistance at all 4 points, and crossed between the sensors themselves.

i even snagged a tps plug from a junkyard to use for testing purposes. self grounded the tps out of the harness, with no help in the matter. bridge patched the connector in with an old tps, and the plug that way i could check all voltage and signals while the cars, running. all was fine.

so i did the same with the afm, same story all is well back to the ecu as well.

im getting 4.99 volts on idle, and 5v as soon as i crack the throttle, so its definitly not a voltage problem. the variable resistance potentiometer (tps) can develop a "flat spot" in the sweeper, but not likely 3 different units have the same issue, besides ive watched all 3 on a multi meter while actuating the throttle.

all the sensors are fine.

the more i read, the more im finding the ecu is a culprit. mind you im also finding in my personal searches, the 93-94 ecu, especially a good working one, is like trying to find a diamond in a gravel pit. my first ecu (50141) gave up on me about 1.5 months ago to the point the car wouldnt idle above 300 rpms sometimes, and after a warm up the car wouldnt idle down from 2000 rpms. trying to blip the throttle or increase throttle was impossible. the car would spit, backfire, and pop.

during this spill of confusion i replaced both cam angle sensors, checked all the wiring for the CAS, replaced the crank angle sensor, checked its wiring. replaced the tps, checked its wiring, and replaced the afm, all while checking everybit of wiring, so i know its not my harness nor the sensors, and like mentioned before, since tps's are pocket items ay junkyards, ive tried 3 different ones. same with afms. i tried 3 different afms, all in spec, with no issues.

so i yanked the ecu to have a look. found 5 different capacitors that were suspect. so i replaced them, with no added benefit the car ran the same. so out of desperate measures i purchased a junkyard ecu (50142) out of a 94 ls400. all the previous symtoms went away, but this sympton appeared. the very symptom thats plaguing me and you both.

so i did the same, i opened this junkyard ecu, to find there was 5 popped capacitors as well, some the same as the other, and some different, meaning on different circuits. i replaced them as i did the original ecu. but it still did not fix the issue.

however i found a local guy to me here in my city that offers an ecu "rebuild" service and says he can take any dead ecu and make it work. so ive been communicating with him via email, and he accepts the challenge of repairing the 1st ecu (50141) or i pay nothing. i made him aware that i had already replaced the capacitors and looked over the board with a flashlight looking for swollen resistors and other isues, and the problem simply seem to lie in an issue with the fuel managment part of the ecu data being corrupted. he thinks he can fix it, so if all goes well, ill also get my current ecu looked at as well. ill report my findings back here.

honestly this issue is becoming a bit of an annoyance. the 93 ls400 is a big car and somewhat heavy. getting into traffic is a bit of a pain under 60% throttle. also living in a mountainous region, even interstate driving on some of the hills i fall down as far as 45 mph from 70mph, simply because i cant push the accelerator far enough to downshift. i long for the day i can once again floor my ls400 and hear the 1uz scream.
 
oh yeah, your comment about "fail safe mode" negative ghost rider. its customary practice of toyota to pull timing and ignition in the case of a failure, not the fuel. this is why a toyota will never leave you on the side of the road (think about that) it will leave you in a parking lot, or in your driveway, or at work, but never die on the road or interstate.

when i seen that the ecu was dropping the injector signal, and that the ignition timing didnt flinch this is what cued me to look in other areas, being that the fuel control is issued via the afm and tps, thru the ecu.
 
im running a 26, 16, 22 pin ecu and have found no solution yet as to why i cant open the throttle... as with shoob i have replaced a lot of items to no avail.... the fault is still there... like a itch that wont stop.... im thinking thinking thinking but thats as far as i get..... any insight please yell out... if you read this sideshow maybe u could make a guest post and give some insight for free rather than your usual style... it is after all nearly christmas.... lol:D... kidding but seriously stumped... thought about the factors that control the fuel cut and there is really only 1 component that i havent checked and that is ecu... maybe i can bridge something on that side i just dont know!!! help help help...
 
TONTO INDEED...HAHAHAHAHA mate fuel volume and pressure fine just cuttin as soon as i hit it... i hear a audible relay click also (fuel pump relay) but thats all.... um seriously thinking its just not gettin one or more signals that the ecu needs... just want to know if anyone has had same deal.... all the basics have been covered... fuses, relays, air, fuel and spark... and there all as they should be... so yeah thats why im leaning toward a message that the ecu isnt gettin... :confused:
 
TONTO INDEED...HAHAHAHAHA mate fuel volume and pressure fine just cuttin as soon as i hit it... i hear a audible relay click also (fuel pump relay) but thats all.... um seriously thinking its just not gettin one or more signals that the ecu needs... just want to know if anyone has had same deal.... all the basics have been covered... fuses, relays, air, fuel and spark... and there all as they should be... so yeah thats why im leaning toward a message that the ecu isnt gettin... :confused:

I don't know how or by whom your truck was wired, but
try wiring the fuel pump like this.....
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showpost.php?p=130729&postcount=7

At least you'll know if it's an ECU problem as the fuel pump won't be relying on any signals?
 


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