Timing Belt Longevity

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

stilltippin

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46
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I bought a 2001 Gs430 with 89k miles, and am now at 92k within a month of owning the vehicle, and am going on a 700 mile round trip. I read all these stories about timing belts stretching, breaking, snapping and only disaster as an outcome. I was wondering how long people have waited or have seen a 3UZFE engine go past timing belt/water pump/cam seal service.

P.S. I have looked at the belt, and it does looked to be starting to stretch, however it is not cracking... is there a given sign that it will go out soon?
 
I believe the dealership recommends a belt change at around 90,000 miles...However, dealership recommendations are always conservative...

I've seen original belts reach 150,000 on 14 year old lexus's... I would say change it around every 100,000 just to be safe....
 
This might be an appropriate place to relate my experience of installing a timing belt on my 1UZ, which just took the better part of 12 hours....

If I had this timing belt on once, I had it on two dozen times, and I think I’ve put 10K miles on this engine already, one rotation at a time.

“What’s so difficult about putting a timing belt on” you ask? Nothing ordinarily, but I’ve come to believe this timing belt was possessed by demons…..

It looked innocent enough at first – it had the nice Toyota name and P/N on it, and plenty of other official looking writing, but then I noticed it didn’t have any timing marks on it. Zip, nada, rien. OK, no big deal, I’ve installed belts without marks before. So that’s when the fun began – I thought I could beat the belt, but instead I played right into its hands.

So I first lined my crank mark up with the dot on the oil pump, then lined up the cam drives with their marks, slipped the belt on, popped the release on the tensioner and thought everything was golden. (Oh what a twisted sense of humor this belt had!) Rotated the crankshaft twice, then noticed the left bank cam wasn’t lining up “quite right” anymore…hmmm, no matter, I’ll just pop the belt off and do it again, then the right bank wasn’t lining up right, so I did it again, and again, and again, and ……. Finally after the better part of 6 hours, I called a truce because 1) I just didn’t have any power left in my arms to rotate the engine anymore 2) At every turn, this devilish belt seemed to outwit me, and 3) My 56 year old eyes were playing tricks on me and I couldn’t see to line “anything” up anymore (not that the copious amounts of Mexican beer I was inhaling were helping my vision, but at least they were keeping me sedated enough that I didn’t set the whole dam garage on fire). So I called it quits and spent a fitful night dreaming that I was a slave rower on a Roman galley, but instead of an oar, I had a Ridgid strap wrench, and I was turning, and turning, and turning my life away……

Morning comes and I decide to take stock of what’s going on:
1)This “Toyota” timing belt came to me with no timing marks at all
2) Its fit was a helluva lot looser than I was comfortable with – even with the tensioner released, there seemed to be enough slack that it was liable to jump a tooth after it got broken in.
3)The edges of the belt seemed to be made inconsistently – in some areas, the rubber was missing and the cords were showing through, while in other areas, the rubber was hiding the cords.

“Hmmmm”, says I. “I wonder if I’ve got a Chinese copy instead of the real thing?”

Down to the local Beck Arnley parts store I go, and pick up a Gates belt for the 1UZ. Voila, it has timing marks on it! Rush home, and rip the belt from Hell off, line up my crank and cam marks, slip the Gates belt on and LO AND BEHOLD the timing marks line up! YES……THANK YOU LORD!!!! Put the tensioner back on and I can see the difference in the belt tension already – I can barely get the tensioner lined up. This puppy is TIGHT! Rotate the crank 720 degrees, and anxiously check the cam marks again and they’re RIGHT ON THE MONEY!!

Do a little jig around the motor singing, “Who’s your daddy now, beeeeaaaach?”

Moral of this story: Never EVER try to install a "Toyota" timing belt which doesn’t have timing marks on it, and if it doesn’t feel right the 1st through 5th time, chances are it ain’t gonna feel right the next 10 times either……
 
Dunno David, the belt was on the motor when I picked it up at the tuner's shop. He said he'd put a new timing belt & idler on the motor, but I didn't think much more about it at the time because I was more concerned about the blue silicone oozing out everywhere, and all the old parts that had been put back on the motor without even a bath in his parts washer.

But after yesterday and today, fighting this belt, I think this was probably an eBay "timing belt kit". FWIW, the Toyota P/N on the belt was 13568-50010, and I've already confirmed it's not a 2UZ belt....

 
Moral of the story is don't drink and fix.... Mistakes and accidents can happen...

Although a cold beer is always nice when your turning bolts and cracking your knuckles with slipping wrenches and what not...

Timing belt - I say never change the timing belt unless you see visible wear, cracking or shreading... Example - six months ago I inspected my original timing belts on my 1992 SC400 with 110,000.. Removed those cheesy plastic covers and inspected...I found the belts to be in perfect condition... I returned the new belts I purchased at the dealer...

A note to make - when changing the timing belts it's always a good idea to change out the water pump while you have assess...They go out probably prior to the belts snapping...

I will go 150-200,000 on my original timing belts no sweat and will make it too... Those belts are very protected beneathe those plastic covers...
 
Timing belt - I say never change the timing belt unless you see visible wear, cracking or shreading.
Jibbby,
What have you been smoking? It is better to be safe then sorry especially the some members have interference engines. There are many T-belt break without any sign of wear, cracking or shreading. I would recommend changing them like what Mr. Toyoda intended. Don't push your luck.

There are thing visually can not see or auditorily can not hear doesn't mean is ok.

John,

I am not sure what happen to your t belt but regardless of marks on the belt. If the three pullies are aligned properly, marks shouldnt be important.
 
This is an interesting point as we (us in NZ) generally change our belts at 100000 as well - but kilometers, thats right 100000kms and the guys in the USA do 160000km before changing. This relates to most cars except holden Vectras / astras which are 60000kms.
Every 1uz motor I fit or sell I do the belt and waterpump regardless of condition - most get cam, crank, rear crank, tensioners, and bearings as well as we have little or no history on them. Many have factory cambelt stickers stating changed at around 100000kms from japan. Something else is the belt is rubber and rubber deteriates with time - personally I would do a belt at 10 years of age also - some manufactures recommend 5 years.
Cheers Kelvin
 
I am not sure what happen to your t belt but regardless of marks on the belt. If the three pullies are aligned properly, marks shouldnt be important.

David, that's exactly what I thought, but I didn't take into account this poorly made belt. When I had the three marks aligned, and tried to mount the belt on the left hand drive, with some tension, it just wouldn't go, no matter how hard I tugged on it. If I didn't try to pretension the belt, and simply laid it on the sprocket, then there was at least half a tooth of slack on the left bank, which made its way over to the right bank and threw it out as soon as the crank was rotated.

So I tried compensating for the initial slack by putting the crank pulley just an RCH before or after the timing mark on the oil pump. That took care of the slack, but then when checking the marks after rotating the crank twice, they didn't line up anymore, and I was out at least half a tooth on both sides.

What I didn't realise at the time is that this new timing belt was simply too long, and it was introducing the same "slop" in the timing that a very old timing belt produces. So that in itself is a good argument to change these belts before they start showing wear.

1/2 a tooth slop in the timing may not sound like much, but this is cam degrees, not crank degrees, so we're talking 0.5/48*360 = 3.75 degrees at the cams, or 7.5 degrees of crank timing!
 
Jibbby,
What have you been smoking? There are many T-belt break without any sign of wear, cracking or shreading.


Well if you must ask I am smoking I smoking a little Mary Jane...Feeling a little mellow and chill........:439:

No seriously, as you know I use to buy and sell hundreds of cars, Maybe 50 SC's in my day and never heard of a timing belt break on any SC400 and alot of the cars I bought with high miles never even had the T-belts changed... Of course there is an occasional T-belt break where no visible signs of wear are noticed, but I think that is very rare and does not happen often....Kinda like a busted Serp belt with no signs of wear... See my point...

I tell you with full confidence the T-belts last far longer then the dealer service recommends... That is fact...

Lex what have you been drinking? Don't say Green tea either....:tongue1:
 
Stilltipin,

You should follow what Toyota recommendation. You have an interference engine and if it breaks, then your pistons and valves and perhaps heads will be damage. I would not take that chance.
 


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