steering issue...bushings? pump?

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SCick400

New Member
Messages
12
Location
Cincinnati, OH
I lowered my car about 2 weeks ago. About a 2" drop all around with TT shocks and Eibach springs. I just got my car aligned yesterday, so the springs should be really close if not already settled. The issue that I'm having is at a stop or really low speed, it's extremely difficult to turn my steering wheel (about as tough as it is to turn it without the car started). At moderate speeds, 20-30 mph, it gets a little easier to turn but it's still tough and the steering wheel kind of skips as your turning it, that's the best way to describe it. At regular speed above 30, it gets easier to turn, but it's still harder than it should be or was before I lowered. I'm thinking that it's my control arm bushings because before I lowered, my car made that famous "rusty door hinge" sound when turning at low speeds. Is that my issue or am I looking at a bigger problem? Could it me a power steering issue that coincidentally started right after lowering or is it suspension-related? Any help appreciated. Thanks!
 
Sounds like you have excessive caster.

Caster is the angle the strut has to the road surface. If the wheel has been moved forward it will increase the caster angle. This can be adjusted out.

This may be caused by the lowering.

The car could become a bit "nervous" at higher speeds.

I'd ask the wheel aligner to check the caster angles and see if that's the problem.
 

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Sounds like you have excessive caster.

Caster is the angle the strut has to the road surface. If the wheel has been moved forward it will increase the caster angle. This can be adjusted out.

This may be caused by the lowering.

The car could become a bit "nervous" at higher speeds.

I'd ask the wheel aligner to check the caster angles and see if that's the problem.

I already had my car aligned. They got the caster as close as they could. I have the printout of my alignment, it's not way off. I don't think that is the problem.
 
It doesn't have to be far off to have alarge effect.

My Rover was out by 1degree and it ran all over the road at 70 mile an hour.

Hope you get it sorted but I would keep looking at what happened when you lowered it.
 
It doesn't have to be far off to have alarge effect.

My Rover was out by 1degree and it ran all over the road at 70 mile an hour.

Hope you get it sorted but I would keep looking at what happened when you lowered it.

1 degree is huge lol. I'm not talking anywhere near that. I would have to look at my printout for the exact number, but it's only .0X from factory specification. I will definately keep your thought in mind if I can't figure it out though, I appreciate the input!
 
it's extremely difficult to turn my steering wheel (about as tough as it is to turn it without the car started). At moderate speeds, 20-30 mph, it gets a little easier to turn but it's still tough and the steering wheel kind of skips as your turning it, that's the best way to describe it.

Turn steering wheel to lock with engine at idle. Does the pump load up as you hit the stop? Problem in linkage. No change in pump sound? P/S assist issue.
Raise front of car off ground. You should be able to shove tire from left to right without undue effort. If it steers nice and light here, you do not have mechanical resistance like those fresh new ball joints I once put on that were virtually seized in theior sockets.

Caster is hardly the only contribution to steering effort. Do you have aftermarket wheels with a positive offset? Dramatic negative camber? You have the idle up valve on your pump? Variable assist? All functional?
Colin
 
Turn steering wheel to lock with engine at idle. Does the pump load up as you hit the stop? Problem in linkage. No change in pump sound? P/S assist issue.
Raise front of car off ground. You should be able to shove tire from left to right without undue effort. If it steers nice and light here, you do not have mechanical resistance like those fresh new ball joints I once put on that were virtually seized in theior sockets.

Caster is hardly the only contribution to steering effort. Do you have aftermarket wheels with a positive offset? Dramatic negative camber? You have the idle up valve on your pump? Variable assist? All functional?
Colin

Thanks, I will try this out asap.
 
I lowered my SC400 for about 2" with no issue in steering. I had it aligned and everything is perfect, and there's still a little bit more adjustment range to be done. Bad bushings may cause you the clunking noise, but I never heard they can cause the door hinge noise. :confused: You may check the rack opinion bushings and the linkages, along with the steering fluid.
 
I lowered my SC400 for about 2" with no issue in steering. I had it aligned and everything is perfect, and there's still a little bit more adjustment range to be done. Bad bushings may cause you the clunking noise, but I never heard they can cause the door hinge noise. :confused: You may check the rack opinion bushings and the linkages, along with the steering fluid.

When the factory rubber bushings start to decay, it will make that hinge-y noise when turning at low speeds. If you were hearing clunking, your bushings were probably almost non-existent and completely decayed. Who knows, I could be wrong, but I'm going to take it in to have a mechanic look everything over just to save me time. Not to mention it's been in the 20's and 30's here lately and I HATE cold weather, so I'm not about to stand outside for an hour or two looking stuff over lol. I'm just going to take it in and have them tell me what the deal is, and then I'll gather the parts and begin wrenching.
 
If the lower control arm bushings are bad, then a new complete control arms from the 93-98 Supra TT is the best replacement. Each costs about $220 USD, while the SC control arms costs about $375 USD. They're all 99% the same. The only difference is the SC arm has some holes in the bushing to flex and the Supra arm bushing is completely filled for more rigidity.
 
If the lower control arm bushings are bad, then a new complete control arms from the 93-98 Supra TT is the best replacement. Each costs about $220 USD, while the SC control arms costs about $375 USD. They're all 99% the same. The only difference is the SC arm has some holes in the bushing to flex and the Supra arm bushing is completely filled for more rigidity.

Do you have a link to where I can purchase those if I need to? I wasn't able to find anything with a Google search. If my arms are still in good shape and all I need to replace are my bushings, I'll probably just buy a bushing kit though. But just in case.
 
Check with Lextreme and he may be able to help you with the complete arms or just the OEM Toyota bushings. Or you can also check on www.supraforums.com, or Ebay. I wouldn't just replace on the bushing with polyurethane bushings because they'll squeak and give a harsh ride. I've been there and done that and regretted. I paid around $150 for the bushing kit and tools and spent 2 days on them. I eventually threw the whole arms away and bought the Supra arms. This was the right decision. :D
 
Check with Lextreme and he may be able to help you with the complete arms or just the OEM Toyota bushings. Or you can also check on www.supraforums.com, or Ebay. I wouldn't just replace on the bushing with polyurethane bushings because they'll squeak and give a harsh ride. I've been there and done that and regretted. I paid around $150 for the bushing kit and tools and spent 2 days on them. I eventually threw the whole arms away and bought the Supra arms. This was the right decision. :D

I'm not a fan of buying used parts, but thanks. If I can't find anything brand new then supraforums will be my last resort, I'm a member there.
 
I didn't mean used parts. LOL. Lextreme has some brand new LCA original Toyota bushings. I don't know how he got them, because those are very rare. Even some Lexus dealers don't have them. You'll just need to press out the old bushing with shell and press these ones in. Lextreme can also get you brand new Supra LCAs.
 


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