S&S headers Soooo Confused

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

new big400

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Fishers,IN
Hello this is my fisrt post here I stumbled across a link on LOC where I am currently a member.This is quite the site I cant believe I didnt find it sooner.Anyway I have a Gs4 and Im looking to put s&s headers on it.Ive already got the headers and Im not too concerned about the installation process but after doing some reading here Im confused.Ive read about having to do an egr bypass and possibly reprogram the ecu.

What is the egr bypass what are the benefits?
And is this necessary for header install.

Also will the ecu need to be reprogammed and if so why?
I planned on tuning the ecu but not until I did a few more things.

Thanks in advance for any assistance
 
You need to plug up the rear upper intake egr entrance. Since that is the case you will need to trick the ecu with a resistor. You dont need to reprogram the ecu because of the header change.
 
new big400 said:
Hello this is my fisrt post here I stumbled across a link on LOC where I am currently a member.This is quite the site I cant believe I didnt find it sooner.Anyway I have a Gs4 and Im looking to put s&s headers on it.Ive already got the headers and Im not too concerned about the installation process but after doing some reading here Im confused.Ive read about having to do an egr bypass and possibly reprogram the ecu.

What is the egr bypass what are the benefits?
And is this necessary for header install.

Also will the ecu need to be reprogammed and if so why?
I planned on tuning the ecu but not until I did a few more things.

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Welcome to Lextreme!

Your GS400 does not have the EGR components so you do not need to worry about that or tuning. Tuning will give you a little more power but is not required for the install. The headers bolt right in. Now, on the GS400 and all 1998+ vehicles the catalysts have a protrusion from them that may interfere with your install. The best way to resolve this is to use a dremel tool with a cutting tip and cut a little over an eigth inch of the pipe from the inside of the flange.

Check out this link for good details.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189345&highlight=headers
 
Wecome and let us know how the headers sound after installed, loud, deep, etc.., and if you notice any real power gains? The curious want to know?
 
Thanks.I still cant believe this site.I have a few different things Im doing at the same time so Ill post on all of them.

1 more thing do you think the gaskets provided by S&S are sufficient or should I cough up the dough for factory?They look alot better.
 
I recommend the factory multi layer stainless gaskets. You can re-use the originals or buy new ones. I do not have a full replacement Y pipe yet but do offer a Y-pipe section that can be used to fabricate a full Y. Of course you can re-use the factory Y.
 
JBrady said:
I recommend the factory multi layer stainless gaskets. You can re-use the originals or buy new ones. I do not have a full replacement Y pipe yet but do offer a Y-pipe section that can be used to fabricate a full Y. Of course you can re-use the factory Y.
What is the benefit of this Y pipe section over stock?
 
Thanks for all the help.What exactly would this replace?The resonator?I saw the pic and just cant place it.I do agree with the idea of an x or y.
 
new big400 said:
Thanks for all the help.What exactly would this replace?The resonator?I saw the pic and just cant place it.I do agree with the idea of an x or y.

The stock Lexus system is a very good design in many ways. It produces good low and mid RPM torque and is quiet. It consists of 2 Y sections. The merge and the diverge. Between the 2 Y pipes is the first resonator. The second resonators are after the diverge. The concern about the stock Y pipe is that each feed pipe from the catalysts is only 50mm (1.96") and the center pipe is only 60mm (2.37"). At least the pipes are mandrel bent.

The answer SEEMS simple... just slap on bigger pipes, right? Wrong. Larger pipes can seriously hurt your low end response. 2.50" dual pipes are TOO large. 2.25" pipes with headers are a good choice. 2.125" may be better but is not readily available. 2.00" can work well but EXTREME care must be used in the design and construction and MUST be mandrel or will flow less than the stock pipes.

So, the most logical choice from a materials availability is 2.25". Now, what size for the center pipe? Available sizes are 2.50", 2.75" and 3.00". You want the SMALLEST pipe that will support you power goals. Since 2.50" is larger than the stock 60mm (2.37") pipe it is an upgrade. The stock pipe supports the stock 300hp so a 2.50" will support more. How much more? Hard to be certain but with almost 13% more flow area you could reasonably say that it would support 13% output/power before reaching stock restriction levels or 339hp. Since a number of cars have installed superchargers and posted WELL over 400hp (350rwhp) on the stock Y pipe you could argue that it can "support" more than needed BUT how much power is is "costing"?

There are a number of guys now getting their headers installed and going with variations on the 2.25" pipe system. My recommendation at this point is 2.25" into a 2.50" center pipe. NOW THERE IS ONE BIG CAVEAT... this requires a NOZZLE collector. A nozzle collector can LOOK like a standard racing merge collector but internally it accelerates the gas in a different location. This creates better velocity and scavenging. Without the nozzle going to this size recommendation is not a noticable improvement over stock pipes ON THE GS400. It is my current recommendation for all Lexus V8 engines especially with the S&S Headers.

Will a standard Y or X pipe work? Yes, of course. Will the stock system work? The stock GS400 system will work. How many different type of X and Y pipes are available? MANY MANY MANY. Do they all work the same? NO. Who makes the nozzle collectors? It is my invention so at this point just me.
 
OK John, I see what you are saying with the exhaust flow setup for the early model sc's and it does make sense. Coming from a real pro like yourself I would assume my positive experiences with the larger tailend exhaust pipes do not apply to the stock torque converter setup where lowend torque is so important. With a stronger or after market torque converter your lowend or low rpm torque really hits hard at the rear wheels, so losing a little low end torque and increasing high end or High RPM exhaust flow was just right for my setup with the dragon torque converter and supra LSD. That is best conclusion I can come up with my experiences toying around with the exhaust. I am interested and impressed with your Y pipe and Header designs and want to say congrats on your efforts!!!!!!!!
 
JBrady said:
Larger pipes can seriously hurt your low end response. 2.50" dual pipes are TOO large.
I can't say that I have seen this in Australia on any car at any dyno or from on-road experience of owners.

All of the 1UZ-FE's I have heard of with headers and dual 2.5 inch pipes have matched or beaten other cars for low end response. I agree that 2.25 inch dual will be sufficient. But I haven't seen dual 2.5 inch "seriously hurt low end response".

How do you define "seriously" ?
"low end response" - are you talking less than 1500 rpm?
Is this comment still based on that one guy who emailed you about his "bum dyno" impression? Is it mostly theory? How many examples of this do you have?

I haven't heard one person tell me that they lost low end response after installing a 2.5 inch dual system. The Australian dyno library has over 60 1UZ-FE V8's dyno results and I can't recall one of them complaining of poor low end response after any exhaust upgrade.
http://planetsoarer.com/dynolibrary/dynolibrary.htm

Dyno's are hopeless for measuring low end response most of the time because the operator is trying to avoid kickdown for a single third gear run and doesn't get on the gas till 3000+ rpm.

Do you think a change in fuel mixture and hence timing has a greater effect than the exhaust and perhaps one is causing the other? I've changed from a stock ECU to a Blitz ECU and the low end response was staggering - The Blitz made the wheels spin from a standing start while the stock ecu made the car a plodder. The Blitz gave terrible economy - anyway I"m getting off track.

But I haven't been able to pin poor low end response on 2.5 inch dual all by themselves. Talking to all the V8 guys at dyno days and on cruises and at the race track over the past four years not one has complained of poor low end response after an exhaust upgrade let alone a 2.5 inch dual upgrade.

Clip.gif


This dyno graph is terrible for low end response information as it doesn't even start until 3700 rpm! The blue line and the pink (my car) both have 2.5inch dual systems. Neither of us have noticed any decrease in low end repsonse. The blue line guy has a dual 2.5 inch system on stock exhaust manifolds and cats with no connecting pipe at all, no h pipe, no x pipe no nozzle collector, just a BFI and a twin system with straight through mufflers and he loves the improvement in the car and reckons it absolutley rocks all the way from idle to redline and that low end response has in fact improved not suffered.
 
Peter, I define seriously as in creating poor responsiveness in the normal low to mid RPMs that most people drive in. Your examples surprise me as with but a very few exeptions the opposite of your experiences are the reports I get. Check out this post.

http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4388

Hiccup installed headers, 2.50 pipes off the headers, Dr.Gas merge collector 2.50-3.00", 3.00" center cat and the stock rears. Now you can certainly argue that the stock rears may be an issue, fair enough, but in this case his low end was hurt. He went to 2.00" mandrel piping to a 2.50 center cat and reports massive power improvement accross the range.

VSsc400 from Club Lexus installed dual 2.50s and reported excellent results a couple of years ago. I conversed with him and he kept the first 2 feet of stock pipe off the cats before going with a wide open dual 2.50 and X pipe. I was surprised that he did not loose low end but he reported it was great and better than his 2 previous attempts.

That said he PM'd me some time later to inform me that he added a couple of sections of 2.25" and his low end noticeably improved. Here is a quote of his in a thread in response to another member (not me) who suggested 2.25". "i have the 92-94 1UZ-FE with 10.2:1 compression. That will soon change to 11.5:1 compression and it will receive 272intake 288exhaust cams with 162lb springs so the 2.5" would be what I'd need at that point. I didn't want to have to do the exhaust again again when I put the cams and raise the redline to 8525rpm. But I do agree with you that 2.25" is what the 4.0L calls for."

I had another guy recently write me complaining that the dual 2.25" X pipe system on his 290hp 1998 SC400 hurt his low end. He went back to a dual Y pipe design with my nozzle collector and merge collector combo in 2.25" dual to 2.50 single sizing and reports the low-mid power is back again.
Check out his post #16 in the following thread:
http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4058&page=1&pp=20

Go to the Dynomax website and review their flow chart using 2.2cfm per HP to gauge the power supported by their mufflers. This flow rate was developed by David Vizard who also helped develope the Walker Super Turbo muffler which was the best performance muffler for a long time. Their data shows each 2.50" muffler part#17293 on the following link (straight through like straight pipe) supports 1197cfm or 544hp for the single muffler.
http://www.dynomax.com/documents/ultrafloss_specs.pdf

Personally, I would run much more than a single 2.5" muffler on anything over 300hp and in fact dual smaller ones for the most part on a street car with noise concerns... but it is interesting to see this type of info and also interesting that Lexus used a single 2.36" center pipe on their 300hp/310tq GS400 engines.

I also understand and preach that the exhaust is like a wind instrument and changing things will alter the harmonics and such performance. A one size fits all is rarely obtainable and recommendations such as slap a pair of "whatever" size pipes will perform differently depending on design.

Bottom line point is that most 1UZFE engines are 300hp and less. A single 2.50 pipe PROPERLY installed is not going to restrict that power level very much if at all. Dual 2.50"s will support MUCH MUCH more power and in the experience of many including myself does not enhance and usually reduces the responsiveness and power of the engine in mid to low ranges. Larger pipe weighs more, it is louder and is harder to package. If it made more power I would be the first to recommend it. I just do not see it helping over a well designed 2.00-2.25" system.

Peter, this is why I post as I do. Your experiences surprise me. I know you tried a single 2.50 system early on. Do any of your countrymen who you have dyno info on have dual 2.25 systems. I know you have the RUSH headers which have larger primary pipe size than I recommend and in fact you have asked me that question also. One day I would love to try multiple different systems and designs on a dyno mule. My beliefs are ALWAYS open to scientific reform so all data is welcome. As you point out standard chassis dynos are not good at gathering mid and low RPM power as the auto trannies tend to downshift. They are also not good at measuring engine responsiveness which is another factor in how a car feels. I know of a GS400 who replaced the stock Y pipe with a slightly larger design and reported a loss of power accross the RPM range. He then dyno'd and discovered to his surprise a 1hp and 6tq gain! It was the loss of responsiveness that created this feeling and of course the low RPMs were not able to be compared.

This is a complicated subject. I will continue to add to the info base.
 
Even more interesting!! Man I am starting to wonder if I should go back to my stock piping on the rear half of my exhaust instead of the 2 1/2 non mandrel I have now...????....you guys both made a good case..
 
I received my S&S Headers today and they look great, I also received a courtesy call from S&S Headers for the delayed production. Here are the pics...
 
Hey John,
Had to come in on this one. I'm kinda on Peter's side, but..... you make very valid points. Here's what you and I have talked about before that I just can't seem to come to agreement about.

1. 2 headers ( left & right ) flowing into Conveters. Coming from the Exhaust head ports this has got to be the Hottest flowing, highest Velosity exhaust gas comming out of the combution chamber at this point.

2. Having (8) 2.25 Pipes flow out into a 2.50 center pipe just does not fit well with me performance wise especially on a 32 valve V8 motor.

3. Now a non VVTI pre 97 motor may be a differnet issuse vs a 98 and after motor.

Again I refference this article that goes in to great detail about complete performace exhaust building. Check page 2, Fig # 10. http://superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0505phr_exh/

Also can you post a pic or link of what the Nozzle collector looks like. Thanks.
 
jibby whats headers like that cost? I hate it when people tell me what mods to do, but man you need a 5spd swap! and with your NOS, headers, exhaust and more you should see some really good performance! go getrag! hahaha
 
lowboost - the headers cost me around $700 USD.

I here you on the 5spd swap and I am in total agreeance with you and chomping at the bit.....However I am 6"6 feet tall 225 pounds and my knees almost hit the dash now, so working a clutch pedal is not going to be a luxury for me as it would for most others. I can customise the seat to go back further but then the steering wheel is too far away. It's all messed up for us tall guys... Anyway, I am still working it out and building as I go..I may still do it..Thanks man...
 


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