I bought and installed a new engine today in my ls400. When its running its like the timing is off but I have done the timing belt twice now. How could it be that off? My measurments are 54 teeth between cam mark to cam mark and 77 teeth between the 78th crankshaft mark from each camshaft mark on the timing belt. I have aligned all marks and crank to zero. Is there something I am overlooking or are my measurments wrong?
rpm 13 timing miss
- Thread starter tsirovy
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I redid the timing belt four times over to be sure. It runs like its missing on cylinders. I checked all the spark plugs and wires and all markings for timing and even the camshaft gear markings inside the valve cover/head as I used different heads for the new engine. I was getting code 13 but not anymore. I have continually gotten code 24 and when i unplug the maf plug it bogs down to die. I am clueless on this one.. also the temp guage sky rockets above Hot after a bit which would make me think its timing is off but I have redone four seperate times with two different belts! Has anyone dealt with these problems?
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
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Did you use oem timing belt? If you are certain of the timing marks then it could be something else. Secondly, make sure the marks are still there after the T Belt Tensioner is released.
gloverman
Well-Known Member
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have you got spark on all cylinders? I check #5 and #7 as they are on different coils so checking is easy.
every time i get a car in with ode 13 it has always been cam belt off by a tooth
usually the left hand side a su look at enigne from front
i have made a tool to allow me to adjust belt/cam gears without pulling complete front apart
being a tooth out will not make it miss badly
just slightly
have a lead out means its opposite one will be out too
so if leads are wrong u will have atleast 2 cylinders out
if u have 4 cylinders wrong and thing wont run barely
maybe its just a coincidence that some of your leads are faulty
with enigne running be some good insulted pliers and pull a plug off one at a time
if your a good enough mechanic u can pick which cylibders arent working
otherwise connect a tacho and compare rpm drop each time u remove a lead
its better to remove injector plug but some are hard to get too
usually the left hand side a su look at enigne from front
i have made a tool to allow me to adjust belt/cam gears without pulling complete front apart
being a tooth out will not make it miss badly
just slightly
have a lead out means its opposite one will be out too
so if leads are wrong u will have atleast 2 cylinders out
if u have 4 cylinders wrong and thing wont run barely
maybe its just a coincidence that some of your leads are faulty
with enigne running be some good insulted pliers and pull a plug off one at a time
if your a good enough mechanic u can pick which cylibders arent working
otherwise connect a tacho and compare rpm drop each time u remove a lead
its better to remove injector plug but some are hard to get too
attis
New Member
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You should check your timing belt installation again...(pulleys, tensioner, loose belt, etc...) weeks ago I had the same problem. I thought that the sensors are died but I just installed the belt again, and the CEL is now gone (one camshaft pulley was one teeth before the mark...)
There are no cel codes thrown(13 and 24) after I changed the timing belt the second time and still no codes after the fourth change. Still runs like cylinders are not firing. I did check the timing belt four times over disassemble..reassemble. I replaced all the spark wires and no change. I tried different coils on each coil and no change. When I unplug plugs 2,4,6,8 from the distributor one at a time there is change, you can tell that it was unpluged. When unpluging 1,3,5,7 there in very little/no change in engine idle. What is this telling me? They are on different coils/distributors so how can this be? Could it be a fuel problem? Perhaps the regulator on one side? Idk on this one
I was missing something
I used my other injectors with new 0-rings from an SC400 engine that was good. I had to do a compression test on the new block. Great compression on all eight but I found a little oil blow-by on cylinder four. However more importantly on cylinder six there is certainly what seems to be a little coolant. This means either :33:
There is a crack in the block
I have a faulty head gasket
Or perhaps a crack in the head among other things I may not be thinking about
so..
what is the best way to check for a cracked block?
to know if my head gasket is faulty?
determine if my head *on the engine*:headbang: is broken?
Plus if I decide to take my engine completely out again and do a better rebuild- can I use other pistons from another block if I use this blocks conrod bearings?? or at least the rings? thanks
I used my other injectors with new 0-rings from an SC400 engine that was good. I had to do a compression test on the new block. Great compression on all eight but I found a little oil blow-by on cylinder four. However more importantly on cylinder six there is certainly what seems to be a little coolant. This means either :33:
There is a crack in the block
I have a faulty head gasket
Or perhaps a crack in the head among other things I may not be thinking about
so..
what is the best way to check for a cracked block?
to know if my head gasket is faulty?
determine if my head *on the engine*:headbang: is broken?
Plus if I decide to take my engine completely out again and do a better rebuild- can I use other pistons from another block if I use this blocks conrod bearings?? or at least the rings? thanks
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- Houston, TX
As Sideshow said a message or two below, if the motor has sat for some time, the injectors could be sludged up enough that 1-2 are sticking and leaking. Not a good situation 'cause you could fill up a cylinder with fuel, hydrolock it and there goes a piston/rod, and maybe worse.
I'd pull the injectors and get them cleaned, then start figuring out what's up on your left (1,3,5,7) bank.
As all the injectors get +12 on one side as soon as the key is on, you may be missing that +12 on the left bank. Probe it with your DVM and make sure one side of every injector has the +12.
The function of the ECU injector outputs is to provide an earth return.
I'd pull the injectors and get them cleaned, then start figuring out what's up on your left (1,3,5,7) bank.
As all the injectors get +12 on one side as soon as the key is on, you may be missing that +12 on the left bank. Probe it with your DVM and make sure one side of every injector has the +12.
The function of the ECU injector outputs is to provide an earth return.
- Messages
- 4,790
- Location
- Houston, TX
First, I'd suggest that you go to a Lexus dealer and get yourself an OEM timing belt for that motor and put it on.
The aftermarket belts, even the well known ones like Gates sometimes do not fit like the OEM belt, and the tensioner can't put enough tension on it to keep it from jumping. I installed/reinstalled a brand new Gates belt on my motor at least a dozen times and it kept jumping time until we finally had to "shim" the arm of the tensioner to get the belt tight enough.
Secondly, when the engine is running, hang a timing light on each plug wire in turn and see if you're getting a nice steady pulse to each plug. This is an easy way to look for ignition misfires. If you find intermittent spark on a cylinder, then test the spark plug cables with your DVM and see if any of them read abnormally high compared to the rest. Do be very careful when you remove the cables as they're easily damaged.
Thirdly, go to a NAPA store and pick up a block test kit, NAPA P/N: [FONT=arial,arial,helvetica]700-1006. This will tell you whether you have combustion gasses in your coolant, which could be why you're overheating, ie a blown head gasket. If you don't know the history of that motor, there could be a number of things wrong with it.
If you're sure that fuel is "accumulating" in cylinder 6, then you're not getting spark there and you just have to trace things back from the plug to find out why.
[/FONT]
The aftermarket belts, even the well known ones like Gates sometimes do not fit like the OEM belt, and the tensioner can't put enough tension on it to keep it from jumping. I installed/reinstalled a brand new Gates belt on my motor at least a dozen times and it kept jumping time until we finally had to "shim" the arm of the tensioner to get the belt tight enough.
Secondly, when the engine is running, hang a timing light on each plug wire in turn and see if you're getting a nice steady pulse to each plug. This is an easy way to look for ignition misfires. If you find intermittent spark on a cylinder, then test the spark plug cables with your DVM and see if any of them read abnormally high compared to the rest. Do be very careful when you remove the cables as they're easily damaged.
Thirdly, go to a NAPA store and pick up a block test kit, NAPA P/N: [FONT=arial,arial,helvetica]700-1006. This will tell you whether you have combustion gasses in your coolant, which could be why you're overheating, ie a blown head gasket. If you don't know the history of that motor, there could be a number of things wrong with it.
If you're sure that fuel is "accumulating" in cylinder 6, then you're not getting spark there and you just have to trace things back from the plug to find out why.
[/FONT]
This deal is weird. I changed my timing belt twice today with a new belt, that is three different belts now, even though it lines up perfectly everytime after two crank turns. But no real change in performance except that when I unplug wires 1,7,2,8 there is absolutely no change in engine idle even though I get great spark on all eight plugs. Again I checked my camshafts and I think they are aligned because on one side the two/or one set of dots on each cam lines up also. With 4 cylinders not perfoming this is why I believe my engine is getting hot. Timing has to be off! Right? maybe I should try a new tensioner and pulley.
test if the coil is working on that bank
i have seen coils fail
another thing is i have seen some people stuff up how they sit the rotor buttons
i did a job once and the guy had one of the rotor buttons 180 degrees out
but this made the enigne backfire thru the intake manifold
if one bank is not working then start looking for for things that relate to that bank which isnt working
if u are definately gettin spare on all 8 cylinbders
make sure u can get a long good spark
sometimes a bad coil will spark ok when testing but not when put under load
are all 8 injecotrs clicking
some are a pain to test but u have to make sure they all working
cant be too hard
you prob wasted thousands of dollars on replacing the worng poarts hehehehehe
i have seen coils fail
another thing is i have seen some people stuff up how they sit the rotor buttons
i did a job once and the guy had one of the rotor buttons 180 degrees out
but this made the enigne backfire thru the intake manifold
if one bank is not working then start looking for for things that relate to that bank which isnt working
if u are definately gettin spare on all 8 cylinbders
make sure u can get a long good spark
sometimes a bad coil will spark ok when testing but not when put under load
are all 8 injecotrs clicking
some are a pain to test but u have to make sure they all working
cant be too hard
you prob wasted thousands of dollars on replacing the worng poarts hehehehehe
I got an rpm code 13 again so it has to be a timing issue. The engine runs just slightly off and gets hot. I was going to change the tensioner pulley but came to found that instead of an 8mm hex socket to remove it... it was a bigger hex socket that I dont have. Why would this be different on both sc400 engines?
There has to be something I am overlooking-Plus how could you even put the belt on the camshaft 180 degrees off? I dont even have another mark for it!
There has to be something I am overlooking-Plus how could you even put the belt on the camshaft 180 degrees off? I dont even have another mark for it!
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