R154 to 1uz-fe adapter plate

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
If you currently have an 7M R154 bellhousing then you WILL NOT find an adaptor.

If you currently have a 1JZ R154 bellhousing then you can buy adaptors from *** performance (from memory) for about $800USD.
 
yes it´s a 7M bellhousing...and i want a drawing of the bolt pattern and not a buyable adapter plate...i know that this adapters are not sold everywhere.
 
indyman said:
yes it´s a 7M bellhousing...and i want a drawing of the bolt pattern and not a buyable adapter plate...i know that this adapters are not sold everywhere.
Click to expand...
My point is that the 7M bellhousing is the same thickness as the bellhousing you'll need on for the 1UZ.

Which means if you put an adaptor between the 7M bellhousing and the back of the 1UZ you'll be spacing the gearbox off the back of the crank, which inturn means your input shaft will not sit in the spigot bearing correctly, and you'll also need to space the flywheel out the same amount.

Now this may not worry you are all, but personally, since there are bolt on parts off the shelf that don't have these issues, doing it 'correctly' is a no brainer.
 
1uz bellhousing is 40mm shorter than the r154 from the supra so this not a problem. You could put the gearbox the same distance from the motor or closer if you want. Just have the adapter cut from whatever thickness stock suits your needs. Ill be going 40mm so the spigot sits in the crank perfect. Ive heard some conversions have the box closer and have the gearbox input shaft machined to suit.
 
Peewee said:
My point is that the 7M bellhousing is the same thickness as the bellhousing you'll need on for the 1UZ.

Which means if you put an adaptor between the 7M bellhousing and the back of the 1UZ you'll be spacing the gearbox off the back of the crank, which inturn means your input shaft will not sit in the spigot bearing correctly, and you'll also need to space the flywheel out the same amount.

Now this may not worry you are all, but personally, since there are bolt on parts off the shelf that don't have these issues, doing it 'correctly' is a no brainer.
Click to expand...


yes i know that...and you are right...but the main reason why all these work... I dont want another cluth setup...so a new flywheel will be machined and the spacer between the block and the bellhousing and all is fine.
 
indyman said:
yes i know that...and you are right...but the main reason why all these work... I dont want another cluth setup...so a new flywheel will be machined and the spacer between the block and the bellhousing and all is fine.
Click to expand...

Are you sugesting an adapter to bolt the 7M R154 bellhousing to the back of a UZ???? If so then your gonna run into problems as you will then be pushing the trans back by the thickness of the adapter which will pull the input shaft out of the spigot bearing... Remember, the input is matched to the bellhousing and by adding an adapter to the front of the bell, you are effectively lengthining the bellhousing but still leaving the input shaft the same length, so whats happening, you are pushing the input shaft back thus pulling out and away from the the crank spigot...

There is no reason why you cant do an adapter between the UZ auto bellhousing and the trans and still keep your same clutch. Why do you think you would have to get another clutch setup?????
 
Hennie Marais said:
I had one cut from Ed's file, came out very nice, will tap and drill it over the weekend. I'm getting my billet flywheel on monday.

Photo459.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats great and all, but how do you plan on ensuring that the bellhousing is centered to the adapter?
If you are off center by more then about .005 (.125mm) you run a high risk of tearing up the input shaft bearing.
 
Im planning on making a blanking plate for the front of my 1uz bell (engine side). Finding the exact centre is no problem agreed? Then with adapter bolted to the r154 I can offer it up and check fittment. If there is any mismatch Ill centre the transmission input shaft sleave (the part the thrust bearing sits on) to the centre of the blanking plate. Six bolts secure it and the adapter to the bellhousing but I may even weld the adapter to the bellhousing aswell once Im certain its dead centre.

Like I said earlier Ill get one cut and then let you know how it goes. There could be room for error but I think Ive got it covered.

CJsupra is spot on, if the transmission is not inline you will be doing lots of gearbox rebuilds. I guess this is why so many pay big bucks for someone else to supply these kind of parts.
 
its very easy to *design* in a 215mm centering shoulder for the U1 gearbox. its another thing altogether to *make* an adapter with that same shoulder. due to the interfering bolt patterns of the r154 and the profile of that shoulder, the only real way to manufacture such a piece is to CNC the whole damn thing

i got around this issue with my w58 adapter (see pic below) by making it a stacked design in 2 pieces. this simply isnt possible with the r154.

for the r154 a sandwich adapter is a 'next best' option, but not ideal, no. i do doubt however, that with the a340 pattern there will be any trend to off-axis migration of the assembly. 4 holes sit on a circumference with its centre-line shared with the input shaft. I know my design locates the centrelines to error of way less than 0.125, God will give you the final axial tolerance based on whatever the assembly losses are at that a340 interface. if youve got any ideas of how to improve it, im open to smart suggestions :)

10S838-a.jpg

one i can think of is to sleeve (ie bolt through dowel bushing) the a340 bolts. that'd be quite easy, and pretty foolproof

1uz_w58_adapter.jpg
 
Ed, Ive got every confidance matey. Im going to go to a different profile cutter though. Water jet seems to be the way to go. My Bro just got some more parts back from the laser cutter. Good enough for what there were ( inlet manifold standoff) but not for this.
 
I installed dells on mine to keep it in the correct position, another thing I did to help extra is the original top 4 bolts were 10mm, I changed them to 12mm and drilled the bellhousing, to 12mm, with the bellhousing installed without the dells there's not even movement with just the bolts, but I do recommend something like Ed showed or extra dells
 
The 215mm center shoulder is possible. The bolts holes for the trans attachment need to be counter bored to recess the heads so they dont interfer with the bell housing. The adapter is more then thick enough to do this.

As for machining the step with out CNC'ing the whole adapter, waterjet the whole adapter from material that is thick enough to include the centering shoulder then also have an adapter cut out that includes holes for the dowel pins and a few attachment bolt holes and a large whole in the that is centered in relationship to where the input shaft is in relationship to the adapter. This will allow you to attach the adapter to a lathe to turn down the face outer area to create the step shoulder.
 
If you were that set on having the shoulder you could just get a ring turned on a lathe and then fix it to the front of the adapter by your favourite method.
 
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