Project Thread Project LS400T

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I also forgot to mention that my car is getting two units of MSD Ignition 6AL along with a special custom circuit for the ignition enhancement. Besides the MSD Units, a set of custom nology wires will be install in few weeks.

Continue for Stage II
MSD 6 AL - 500 (Two Units)
Nology Wires - 400 (not neccesary but helps alot)
Labor - 100

As for ignition upgrade. The two units of 6 AL will be more then enough, but if you like, u can upgrade those oem wires to Nology. They are expensive, but well worth it. With better ignition, you can rev higher, rev smoother and more power.

P.S. Dont forget to upgrade you spark plug too. I got a set of Denso Irridium ($13 each.. ouch!) and i noticed great improvement in all the rpm range. Once again, its expensive, but well worth it.
 
I am still doing fine tuning. I tried to get it dyno at 9 psi last week but the dyno center was busy. I will try again soon once i have some time. I think my injectors are limited to 9 psi. I tried 16 psi but didnt run too well. Back to 9 now.
 
Lextreme said:
I think my injectors are limited to 9 psi. I tried 16 psi but didnt run too well. Back to 9 now.
You can pick up additional injector controller for pretty cheap these days. Just supplement your main injectors with a pair of 50 pounders. It's a popular way to add fuel without going to bigger injectors.
 
Very Nice!!
Thanks for documenting it so well. It makes it easier for guys like me to work out whats involved in doing a project like this!

It sounds like its a stock engine with only a HG change for decompression. What Comp ratio is it now?
What is the life expectancy of the engine under high boost applications, like
14-15 psi?


Thanks
Andrew
 
Finally! The Rock is Back. Let me by saying Precision Turbo is a very good place to invest your turbo money. They backup their products and repair in timely manner. Anyway, i put back the stock exhaust system and the whole world seems to be little quiter. The car is not smoking anymore. I drove the car on the freeway today for about 20 miles. The car felt very strong. I am boosting 10 psi right now with 550cc. The boost comes on at around 1,400 to 1,500 with Precision .68 A/R turbine housing and the boost climb very fast.

The car still running slightly rich at lower end and espcially before 1,500 rpm. During boost the AFR is reading about about 11 or so and at cruising at about 12.7. Still slight rich but much better than lower end.

I finally understanding the tunning of the Split Second FTC1. If my battery allow, i will lean out the system. The car felt very smooth and shout straight out during boost. Once street tunning is done, i will get some objective numbers.
 
wow looks hot! keep up the good work David...I may need help with the EGR blockoff...mind if I stop by ur house one of these days?

-Eric
 
Thanks,

I really appreciate your comments. The car is running very good and i am lextremely happy with the result. Gotta find some time for dyno. Changing WG springs next week for 1 bar. No more manual WG controller.

Eric,

Come by, i will install the EGR kit for you.
 
Man, that radiator hose is sitting right on that turbine...looks nice though.
 

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Officially the car is running 1 bar. I gave up on manual and electronic boost controller. I changed to a 1 bar spring and the car pulls like crazy..... yes i know.. dyno numbers please.

david
 
Boost spring

Hi David, I understand a electronic controller, but what is a manual controller, i'ts amazing that in 2005 we can put people into outerspace, and the technology available is amazing, but a simple piece of wire shaped as a spring works best.
In New Zealand, we are known as Kiwi's and its said a Kiwi can repair anything with a piece of no 8 wire, sounds like your on to our secret hehehe well done sounds like the time and research spent on your project has been worthwhile.
Best Regards
Lambo
 
an electronic boost controller would probably work "best", but for the money.. a correct spring (few dollars) is the best. If you go with a strong spring, about 20% stronger than the desired boost level, and use an electronic boost controller, the boost will come on quicker and be more stable through the RPM range. with just a wastegate spring it will open linearly with the boost pressure rise. An electronic will keep the wastegate completely shut until the desired boost level then slam it open.. and learn how the car reacts(if it is good enough). but you just can't beat the price of changing springs and not having to worry about it.
 


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