please help!! ucf11 1uz issues.....

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

shoob

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Location
ATL GA USA
ok, where to start?

8-18-12:

i picked up my first ls400 about a month ago, its a 93' loaded with every option available. about 240k miles. cars trac light was on when i bought the car, but the car ran and drove perfect with zero issues.

one day leaving my house i pull to a stop sign, and it starts missing, and skipping like its gonna cut out. it everytime itd miss, the CEL would illuminate. but, it straightened out after just a few seconds, and proceeded to drive normally.

fast forward a week..... it did it again, twice in the same trip, same scenario. cleared up, CEL went off, its been fine.

fast forward to this pass week. i left out of town on a business trip, and my wife was using the car to commute 7 miles to work and back. wednesday morning she goes out to start the car. it starts.....runs 5-6 seconds and dies. all while the CEL and "trac off" button illuminate, and stay on. she repeated the process 3-4 times with the same result. she calls me, i tell her to drive her car until i get back in town and can check it out.

a little background...... ive been dealing with toyotas for 15 years now, from carbbed to obd1 and all in between. forced induction, nominal aspiration, fuel injection, you name it. franken-swaps, tuning, building.......its all in the resume.

this thing has me stumped.

i get home go out, start the car and it hesitated for a few seconds, and self sustained its idle. mind you the trac off light and cel are still on at this point. i press the accelerator...holy balls, no responce, slow revving with slight popping out the exhaust. its richening up to the point you can smell the gas fumes permiate from around the vehicle. so i sit there puzzled and let it run for a few. it dropped idle from 1k to 800, and both lights went off. drove the car, it was fine.

we go out to dinner, get 27 miles from home and it starts again. mind you again, the car cruises 90mph at highway speeds with no ill manner. we eat get back in the car.......starts again.

at this point im irritated. so i grab a paper clip and do the neccesary procedures to pull obd1 codes.....nothing. rapid solid flash, no codes. wtf. it clears up, and we drive home. at this point, ive disconnected the trac unit plug, and turned trac off, ect sport mode......no issues.

we get home and decide to go out and hit the redbox. this time im driving, and the issue happens, starts missing hard, looses all power and i limp into the quick trip. as im turning into a parking spot, the car dies.

okay, so sitting in the parking lot. i check everything, maf hose, maf connection, coil connection, all throttle body components, tap on the IAC......nothing. start it up, same thing.

so i start it a few times......suddenly, it races to 2k, stays there and every now and then drops intermitantly to 1k, only to race back up. i shut it down, check coolant,and allow the car to cool, again checking codes, nothing.

after 30 minutes car starts up, no miss, no lights, and runs fine.

on the way home, starts again.

i get home, final attempt to pull codes, this time pulling abs trans and trac codes.......

nothing on the cel, still.

trac is throwing a 43

abs is throwing an 18

any light to shed here?



update: 8-19-12

ok....after about an hour of troubleshooting, a few choice words and being violated in my ear by the parts store........i found a few things.

the passenger bank main coil wire, feeding the cap, was laying on the timing belt. no damage done, but it did skin back a little rubber.

i got the car to sustain idle long enough to start pullin plugs. my brother swung by to help diagnose..... we pull every plug reachable while the engines running, trying to narrow down the issue.

again at this time, still not throwing codes.

we pull the idle air control valve.......CEL goes out as well as the trac off light, then it starts rapidly idle surging. call the parts store for a price....this is when i got ear raped when i heard $595.99 for the idle air control valve....

plugged it back in, no issues. no trac light, no CEL. headed to the parts store to grab a can of intake cleaner.


that wasnt it......ran fine in the driveway, the minute i started to drive, the problem came back.

its wierd. 1 minute it will idle fine and have a severe acceleration stumble. the next minute it will idle at 2k simultaneously dropping for milliseconds intermitantly, then shoot back to 2k.
now unplugging the IACV does nothing...

still will not flash a code to me with te1 and e1 jumpered. but will show me trac and abs codes when jumping their pins.......

WTF?


finally got the cel to throw codes at me.......i used this that i found, and it seemed to work, by using the 'troubleshooting method".

http://www.justanswer.com/lexus/2kmv...ing-began.html

24- AITS signal (air intake temp sensor)
31- AFM SIGNAL
71-EGR system malfunction

i unplug the MAF while the cars running, and it runs the same as before. shut the car off, plug it in, its fine. looks like im on the hunt for a MAF.

oh, and now my speedo quit working.......

and now im only getting:

CEL- 31
TRAC- 43
ABS- 18

im guessing the previous code 71 came from me having the egr valve unplugged simultaneously right before performing the troubleshooting diagnostics (TE2 and E1 jumpered while running, driving)

i cleaned the AFM sensor, and that seemed to get rid of code 24 (AIT sensor)

still cant find what trac code 43 is, or abs code 18. i know my pad wear indicator is showing, so im guessing abs 18 is related to that, because i cant find any other info.

i figured out that i trashed the MAF by trying to clean it......so:

update: 8-21-12

the engine is acting like, either the timing isnt advancing with rpm's, or the spark is getting weaker as velocity and fuel is increasing in the chamber, so im pointing at the coils at this point. i had a car previously, that had the same type issue. ran fine, till it got to operating temp, then once warm would stall, couldnt put the engine underload, etc. basically the same behavior.

ok, so i replaced the MAF.......nothing. even bought a junkyard spare, tested before install, specs out....nothing. skimmed the harness back off the MAF connector all the way back into the main harness, all wires solid and in tact.

bought a coil.....tested on both sides, not it.

put in a CTS, just because theyre only $20....didnt help.

changed plugs, just because, didnt help.

now no matter what, it will not give me a CEL, no matter what i try to do. how likely is it, that the 93 ls400 ecu's go out? the check engine light will not come on sometimes, and other times it acts as if its got a short in it, rapid flashing, no certain tempo.

also , ive looked pretty good without tearing the engine further apart, where are the main harness grounds attached to the engine? im about to trace grounds, just to see if i have a weak or bad ground somewhere causing irratic behavior.

also note, in the beginning, when it would change idle and the CEL would come on, my passenger back injectors would click loudly.


ive jumpered b+ to fp in the diag box, and im getting fuel flow, so i know its not the pump.

please help!!
 
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as of 10:30 pm tonight, i was messing around with the harness on the driver side (US) and plugged everything back in, started the car, idled and revved normal, no CEL, ran for about 15 minutes. i shut it off, and went to start it right back up.......2k rpm redline, and intermittant missing........w/ CEL and TRAC OFF light on.
 
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on the driver side of the harness, you have......

-4 injectors
-egr valve
-fuel vsv
-charcoal canister vsv
-coil plug
-6 prong plug that contains the CAS, and a few other wires.

also note. when it runs normal, the injectors are silent. when the CEL comes on and the idle becomes choppy, or it revs high, the injectors become very loud. just to make sure im hearing the injectors, and not valvetrain noise, i stuck a screwdriver (old school listenin' stick) to each injector to confirm, that it is them that are so loud.

bad FPR maybe?

also note: speedo not working, have to rev past 2500 to bring tach online.
 
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ok, cant get anything from the CEL, however i opted again for the trac and abs codes. (also nothing from trans codes either.....)



-18 (abs light)

18 is only thrown once in the obd1 codes for this car..

No. 2 cam position sensor signal (CEL)

(but why be flashing thru abs?)




-24 (trac light)

24 is used 3 times in this vehicles obd1 system

1. Sub-throttle valve does not move even when the sub-throttle valve is controlled to fully open position by ECU. (TRAC)

2. Open or short circuit in 3-position solenoid circuit for rear left wheel. (ABS)

3. Intake air temp. sensor signal (CEL, odd as how i got this from the CEL the only time i was ever able to pull CEL codes)





-26 (trac light)

26 is used twice in this vehicles obd1 system.

1. Air-fuel ratio rich malfunction (CEL, and i know its running rich )

2. Sub-throttle valve does not move even when the sub-throttle valve is controlled to fully open position by ECU (TRAC)





-33 trac light

33 is used once in this vehicles obd1 system

1. Rear right wheel speed sensor signal malfunction (ABS)





-34 trac light

34 is used oncce in this vehicles obd1 system.

1. Rear left wheel speed sensor signal malfunction





-43 trac light

43 is used twice in this vehicles obd1 system

1. Malfunction in TRAC control system (ABS)

2. starter signal (CEL, im gonna call this one since i know that there is no starter issues, and i constantly have a trac light illuminated)






-44 trac light

44 is used once in this vehicles odb1 system.

1. During TRAC control, NE signals are not input to the ECU (TRAC)





-45 trac light

45 is used once in this vehicles obd1 system.

1. When idle switch is ON, main throttle position sensor signal is 1.5V or higher (TRAC)





-51 trac light

51 is used 3 times in this vehicles obd1 system.

1. Switch condition signal (CEL)

2. Pump motor is locked, Open in pump motor ground (ABS)

3.Problem in engine control system (TRAC)





-55 trac light

55 is used twice in this vehicles obd1 system.

1. Short in TRAC motor relay circuit (TRAC)

2. No. 2 knock sensor signal (CEL)





so the first number with "-", signifies where i got the code. the "(TRAC)" determines the particular codes corresponding origin. since my CEL isnt working, and some of these codes arent found in the particular bank they were flashed from, is it possible for the ecu to redirect these codes to other indicators, or in opinion, is my ecu fried?
 
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No CEL generally points to a faulty ECU. Ive done a few so far this year.

You mentioned your speedo stopped working. This would lead to a TRAC issue. Have you had a scanner on it? Start by finding actually issues that exist and start by fixing them, even if they dont seem to be related. I always say fix the things you know not the things you dont.
 
CEL should flash with TE1 and E1 bridged. If ECU doesnt log codes it should flash on/off. if it doesnt work from under the bonnet use the check connector under the dash. If that doesnt work try directly at the ECU. Have you checked it with a scanner? That would be my next step.
 
confirmed.....

mass chip destruction at R202 looks like a char or meltdown.

capacitor C832 popped and leaking

capacitor C103 total inhalation

capacitor C105 is on the verge of popping
 
ok, so i had an epiphony......

the only time code 18 is used by toyota/lexus, in this vehicles obd system is for the no. 2 cam postion sensor.

granted i cant get codes from the CEL, i can still get codes from the trac and abs ecu, which in turn corresponds with each other, which also in turn correspond with the engine ecu. now, considering all this, the ABS light gave me a code 18. there is no other use for code 18 in the entire obd1 system for this car. how i got that code from the abs light is still a mystery, however, im gonna run with it.

ive already got the driver side cam angle sensor out, the passenger side looks to be a bit of a pita......

none the less, im replacing both of them. ill let you guys know what happens.
 
they are also prone to breakages in the wiring in the front cam/crank sensor loom down the front of the engine and poor connections at the plugs where it connects into the main engine harness LHF of the engine beside #1 injector plug. I had another one yesterdeay which had no power to the LHS coil due to a damaged wire.
Cheers
 
kinda makes sense of the way it cleared up when i unplugged everything from the left loom, and plugged it all back in. ill check it out, because as of right now:

i replaced both CAS, and no effect. still persist. however, the left harness that goes from the CAS to the main harness, has already been repaired once, and i thoroughly checked it while i was doing the driver CAS.

tomorrow ill tackle the crank sensor.....though i feel its not it.

its burned 1/2 tank of fuel sitting in the driveway trouble shooting, and like stated before the injectors get loud when it goes into its problematic state, does the crank sensor have any effect on the injector pulse in the 1uz?
 
a few questions though:

1. where is the main harness ground on the engine?

2. how do these vehicles react to old, or low life batteries? im asking because of the light dimming situation. im getting 14.7 volts at 1500rpm revs, so the alt is doing its job, but when the car is off, im getting 12.3-12.5 volts from the battery. this battery looks fairly new, but you never know. the light dimming issue raises an eyebrow here.

3. ive also read one instance before where the oem amp causes a mass of issues, where it shorts out or creates an ill upset in the electrical system. one guy even reported a weak spark, poor idling, and not rev happy, unplugged the amp, it was scorching hot, and the issues went away.....ever heard of this issue before? common? it has an aftermarket head unit in it, but the installer used the aux ports out of the rear of the radio to run the channels into the oem amp vs. using the grn, prp, gry, wht speaker wires.......
 
main engine earths are on the back of each cylinder head. Little hard to get at but still do-able. I do have small hands which help. I would be getting my scan tool and ossilloscope out. Cheers
 
crank angle sensor changed......same effects, however:

its trying to clear up. i also have about 5-6 fuse boxes lying around from other toyota swaps, so i decided to swap out some relays, just as a stab in the dark, its trying to come around, better than it was by far. i was able to do a full throttle sprint down the road up to about 80, (guessing, because the speedo still isnt working). i also pulled the no.1 radio fuse out from under the hood, but my head unit is still on......? im guessing the fuse is for the amp? same thing though, shut it off, started it back up, and it idles at 1500 with barely/poor acceleration.

also when i disconnected the old crank angle sensor, i found that the connector was slap full of oil. cleaned out the connector needless to say.

shot in the dark? whats the trans sensors consist of in these cars? are they heavily linked into the ecu, meaning that if a speed sensor goes out, etc., would it cause wierd issues?

also found that the last plug, closest to the firewall on the drivers bank, that little seal that goes around the plug wire insert tube, is pushed all the way in......hmmmm, severe vacuum leak? waiting for the engine to cool now, ill be pulling the valve cover off, retrieving that seal and putting it back in the way its suposed to be, im hoping that, its allowing enough air into that whole that, its directly pulling through the pcv, and its creating a high idle, and also allowing unmetered air into the engine........we'll see.
 


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