Need advice (and maybe a motor)

[kc95sc400]

Went to the track today. Horrible experience all around. Took me an hour to get through the damn gate it was so busy.

Made 1 pass, 12.2 something. Had added some timing. Was pinging a bit so I let off a little around half track.

Was not running right when I parked it. Missing a bit. Decided to call it a day before I need to call AAA. Drove home (90+ miles). At idle the engine was missing ever so slightly. Probably wouldn't even notice it if it weren't for the supercharger. Slight changes in pitch at idle.

Fearing the worst I decided to do a compression check. Results:

Drivers bank

1 - 190psi
3 - 150psi
5 - 195psi
7 - 195psi

Passenger bank

2 - 180psi
4 - 190psi
6 - 185psi
8 - 90psi

Also a fair bit of oil in my intake, which is usually very clean due to the water meth injection, seen by looking through the throttle body.

I don't have a leak down tester but I was thinking about setting #3 and #8 to top dead center and putting in air pressure while listening for air in the crankcase and the cooling system. I suppose I might just need some head gaskets.

What do you guys think?

What are my options if I do end up needing a motor? Keep in mind the current engine just turned over 170,000 miles.

A 4.7 swap sounds VERY tempting but I REALLY don't have the money.

Opinions please!

KC

 

[cribbj]

Hopefully just a set of head gaskets will get you going, but the oil in the intake is ominous.

There's a block tester kit from NAPA and others that will test the coolant for presence of combustion gases. It's a useful tester for $40 and you can find them on Amazon, eBay, etc. That'll give you a clue if it's blown headgaskets.

But if your air pressure test shows it's the rings that are leaking, then you're probably in for a swap, or a built motor (which is an even bigger/deeper money pit)

One other quickie test, is to have the car running, then pull out the dipstick and see if you can feel much blowby coming out the dipstick tube. High mileage cars always have blowby, but if you can feel some real flow coming out the tube, then it doesn't sound good for your short block.

 

[4U2QUIK]

if you have a compressor you can get a leak down tester from harbour freight for about 29$

 

[AutoLuxLexES]

Can't you also do a ring test by driving the car around the block, and just remove the oil cap and smell for fuel? That's a very simple logical test of bad rings.

Charley

 

[XR8tt]

Yep load it up on auto and watch how much blow by comes out oil filler or any crankcase breather..
Check your plugs for any detonation signs ??
Could also check valve clearance ?? Tight valve clearance???
Or just tighten head bolts ?? See if compression improves ???

 

[kc95sc400]

Thanks for all the replys guys.

First I want to say that these cars are amazing. This is not the first time my car has been injured but not borken. Always gets me home under its own power regardless! Go Toyota!

The plugs all look fine, even anyway. I'm no plug reading expert but no sign of oil or coolant or damage to them.

I did put some oil down into #8 and the compression DID NOT change. Maybe it wasn't enough. I might try again.

My oil is also low, about half way between the full and add marks on the stick. My car hasn't used enough oil to notice in the past.

I will try the blowby checks suggested but its always had a bit of pressure coming out the crankcase. I have a breather filter on the passenger side cover and it doesn't have anymore oil on it than normal. The oil in the intake is from the drivers side PCV that goes from the valve cover to the intake.

Also, its always smelled a bit like fuel.

Is there anyway to be sure that any cyl besides #1 is at TDC? I was going to remove the valve cover and observe the cam lobes to do this if there is not an easier way.

Is it not possibe for pressure from a combustion chamber to leak into an oil port through the head gasket?

Not smoking at all BTW.

If I do end up needing a motor I just might spend some money with Lextreme to get something at least mildly built. Yes its expensive but as much abuse as I'll put on any motor it may be worth it in the end. Replacing stock motors can get expensive too.

Any advice on buying a used "JDM" motor?

Thanks again guys.

 

[stevechumo]

More likely it's head gasket blown, bad rings, or 2 of them pistons are damaged. I think you can test as suggested above. But if you'll need to get a motor that can withstand more power, get the JDM engine from early model, put on Cometic thick head gasket that'll lower the combustion probably to 9:5:1, and drop in ARP head studs. That's the route I went. I boosted my engine to 17-20 psi sometimes with no problem. The compression is still above 185 psi for all of the cylinders.

By the way, most JDM engines are low miles. I believe Japan doesn't let high mileage cars run in their country, so they need to be tossed, and then sent to US.

 

[kc95sc400]

More likely it's head gasket blown, bad rings, or 2 of them pistons are damaged. I think you can test as suggested above. But if you'll need to get a motor that can withstand more power, get the JDM engine from early model, put on Cometic thick head gasket that'll lower the combustion probably to 9:5:1, and drop in ARP head studs. That's the route I went. I boosted my engine to 17-20 psi sometimes with no problem. The compression is still above 185 psi for all of the cylinders.

By the way, most JDM engines are low miles. I believe Japan doesn't let high mileage cars run in their country, so they need to be tossed, and then sent to US.

Thanks for the info Steve.

The way I see it I have two options...

1. Do as you have stated above. I've already been looking at a few JDM motors. Hard to beat some of those deals. Can probably find cheaper motors locally but with higher mileage. I would very likely do the head gaskets and maybe the studs as well. Total cost around $1300 (with gaskets and studs) give or take a couple of hundred.

2. 4.7 built to suit my power. I absolutely love the idea of this. If I'm really going to spend some money on a motor this would be the way I'd go. I'm waiting for some pricing info from David. Not sure I can swing it though. I can come up with the money but really shouldn't.

--------------

I'm still trying to wrap my head around all of this. Trying to plan the swap in my head. Not too hard I'd imagine but there will be a few things I'll need to pay more attention to than a normal stock to stock swap.

KC

 

[Lextreme II]

If i am you. I wouldnt bother with stock motor. You have accomplished incredible power from it and now it is time to move up in cubic with stronger rods and pistons.

 

[RedPhoenix]

First off I applaud you on how much abuse that 95 1uzfe has taken, gives me some hope.

Money is always an issue and if it was me, I would first just torque down the head bolts again... with 170k miles, and plenty of abuse, you may have lifted the head a bit... that would be a free way to see if its just head lift... then I would check the HG, because it really does just sound like a blown HG, which is common on a lot of abuse @ 170k.... HG + arp studs (or even just new stock toyota depending on how deep your pockets are) would be good if you are seeking the same power levels or a little bit more...

if you want to go for the gold, then its quite obvious that you should build the engine with new internals... and if you dont mind the extra 85lbs up front (on top of the weight of the SC you put on) then the 2uz would be a nice addition for displacement....

Just depends how deep the pockets are...


Once again congrats man.


*fyi JDM engines are not removed because of high mileage... they simply have less miles because most people dont daily drive there cars in Japan, but they use public transportation. The car is a luxury, not a much have/need everyday since the public transportation is SO good there compared to America, it just makes sense. Also "JDM" engines usually are said to be better condition for whatever reason... I can only imagine its because in Japan, having a car is a luxury and a privilege... and they take care of their vehicles, unlike in America, where we are expected to own a vehicle to get anywhere and usually no one even takes care of their shit at all....*

 

[4U2QUIK]

I dinno we've been having bad luck with the jdm 1uz's. we've got 2 of them with rod knock after less than 3 drift events and 2 drag days. It's lke they don't bother with engine maintenance since they're only driving the cars 60k miles. They just maintain exterior stuff and leaks because you'll get tickets for both. You can't have dents or leaks.

 

[kc95sc400]

First off I applaud you on how much abuse that 95 1uzfe has taken, gives me some hope.

Money is always an issue and if it was me, I would first just torque down the head bolts again... with 170k miles, and plenty of abuse, you may have lifted the head a bit... that would be a free way to see if its just head lift... then I would check the HG, because it really does just sound like a blown HG, which is common on a lot of abuse @ 170k.... HG + arp studs (or even just new stock toyota depending on how deep your pockets are) would be good if you are seeking the same power levels or a little bit more...

if you want to go for the gold, then its quite obvious that you should build the engine with new internals... and if you dont mind the extra 85lbs up front (on top of the weight of the SC you put on) then the 2uz would be a nice addition for displacement....

Just depends how deep the pockets are...


Once again congrats man.


*fyi JDM engines are not removed because of high mileage... they simply have less miles because most people dont daily drive there cars in Japan, but they use public transportation. The car is a luxury, not a much have/need everyday since the public transportation is SO good there compared to America, it just makes sense. Also "JDM" engines usually are said to be better condition for whatever reason... I can only imagine its because in Japan, having a car is a luxury and a privilege... and they take care of their vehicles, unlike in America, where we are expected to own a vehicle to get anywhere and usually no one even takes care of their shit at all....*

Thanks allot for the kind words man.

I'd like to be pissed off about this but then I remember how much abuse I have actually given this motor. About 60,000 miles now boosted, daily driven and (no lie, not an exaggeration) several hundred drag strip passes. All this and it just turned over 170,000 miles last week!

I kind of like the idea of just throwing head gaskets on it and it being ok but on the other hand I think it would be cheaper in the long run and easier to find a low mileage replacement. Looking at JDM for sure. Likely would take Steve's suggestion, head gaskets and studs.

Still not really sure what I'm going to do. Awaiting a responce from David on some 2uz info / pricing. I really do LOVE this idea but it may be outside the realm of possiblity for me.

I might tear it down again tonight to double check my compression results and do a leak down.

BTW Red, your project look absolutely awesome. And, if I manage to detroy my "built" auto I'll be giving you a ring for sure.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

So I finally got around to putting some air in the #8 cyl today.

Lots of air (a bit of noticable pressure actually) coming out of the crankcase. Sounded like there may have been some in the intake too but not 100% sure. Nothing from the exhaust.

I put air in #1 just to be sure it wasn't normal. Was some air moving but not near as much.

So I guess that either the rings are gone or possible leaking into the crankcase through the head gasket.

Haven't decided what I'm going to do about it yet.

KC

 

[stevechumo]

Cheapest way would be taking out the engine, hone out the cylinders, put in new rings, MLS head gaskets along with ARP studs and call it done. As long as the cylinder walls and pistons aren't damaged, it can be done.

 

[kc95sc400]

Does anyone know if it is possible to tell what year a 1uz engine is without taking it apart?

KC

 

[RedPhoenix]

Look at the EGR valve. If it has a 2 wire plug setup, 94 and earlier... a multiple pin setup, then its 95+

 

[kc95sc400]

Look at the EGR valve. If it has a 2 wire plug setup, 94 and earlier... a multiple pin setup, then its 95+

Thats good for USDM motors but I'm looking at JDM motors which don't have EGR.

I'll have them check the spark plugs wires for the date....

KC

 

[RedPhoenix]

Thats good for USDM motors but I'm looking at JDM motors which don't have EGR.

I'll have them check the spark plugs wires for the date....

KC

The IAC has a different size hose for the 95 compared to the 94-earlier ones... and if you are physically looking at them... 95+ does not have a cold start injector, so look for the feed line from the rail.

 

[kc95sc400]

The IAC has a different size hose for the 95 compared to the 94-earlier ones... and if you are physically looking at them... 95+ does not have a cold start injector, so look for the feed line from the rail.

Thanks Red.

The year on the plug wires MIGHT be helpful as well. An engine with 93 (just to be safe) wires on it is likely a 94 or earlier. An engine with 94 or newer wires may or may not be a 94 or earlier.....

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

The IAC has a different size hose for the 95 compared to the 94-earlier ones... and if you are physically looking at them... 95+ does not have a cold start injector, so look for the feed line from the rail.

How much difference is the IAC valve hose diameter?

KC