building a N/A 1uz and need advice

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matt @ tin tricks

New Member
Auckland, New Zealand
Hi guys, New member here from New Zealand.

Over the last year and a bit I have been rebuilding a Hilux for a customer and the build has slowly snowballed.
The truck has a fairly stock (internally) 1989/1990 1uzfe in it.
We are not far off getting it on the dyno in its current form but the owner wants to pull it apart again.. It runs and drives but not nicely yet. Earlier on in the build, the idea of the 4.7 stroker kit was going through the owners mind as we dont have any room for a decent turbo setup, and a supercharger will not fit under a stock hood. (truck has been airbagged and bodydropped)
We never went ahead with the 4.7 kit but I made all other areas to suit an upgrade/more hp if needed.
Here are the specs on the motor so far...

Bosch 044 external fuel pump with 1/2" feed line and 3/8" return. Stock Injectors with Custom fuel rails.
Fabricated low profile plenum with 3" rear entry intake. Modifed stock throttle body and lonnnng 3" intake pipe.
Fabricated Cam covers with coil on plug conversion using 1gfe coils. Stock iridium plugs.
Link g4 Extreme ecu (8 inj drives + 8 coil drives)
Mid Sump has been notched alot to clear steering so has large oil cooler and remote oil filter mount.
Equal length extractors on both banks with runners the same size as the 1uz head exhaust port i.d collecting to 2" then up to 2.5" through cherrybomb vortex mufflers. No balance pipe. Exhausts are pretty much just straight and finish at the back of cab (single cab)
Its running a 6speed V160 Getrag supra box with TTC adaptor. It has a Standard 2jz clutch and pressure plate. Will handle more than a stock/slightly worked 1uz.

The owner has now decided he wants to Build the motor up and wants around 350kw at the wheels but its staying N/A

Everything I have done on the truck will handle the power but I need some advice as to what to do with the engine itself.

Before I get people telling me he better have deep pockets, Well, he does. Money is not a problem for this build. We just want reliability with any money we spend.
Also, another thing to keep in mind is that this is pretty much just a nice street car. He may take it down the strip every now and again, but its not going to be subjected to Crazy cornering and drifting or huge rpm's etc. It will also be run on 98 octane pump gas.

We have talked to Kelford Cams about building the heads and they can do a pretty hardcore build on them with Oversized Valves, Ported/Polished/Matched intake/exhaust ports, A different cam grind with all the bucket/shim stuff taken care of and he said with the 4Litre displacement it will make close to what we want.
Obviously we have got the good ecu to tune it perfect and the exhaust system is done but we will need bigger injectors, and possibly a larger diam intake pipe/throttle body?
We mentioned the 4.7 stroker kit and he said it may not make much more POWER, but will make alot more TORQUE.

I have searched for days and find alot of conflicting info on power figures between N/A builds and find myself going round in circles...

So I guess here are some questions I need answered...

With the current mods, and if we get the heads fully worked to the highest spec...

What injectors will we need to support that HP?
Would we need to increase the Intake pipe/throttle body diam from 3"?

Are the 4.7 Stroker kits worth the effort. (Its only 2.5mm extra stroke)
What sort of figures would we expect if we did use the 4.7 kit.
Do we need a block girdle or are they just for really high hp/high torque turbo/s.c motors?
TTC perf has a few options in terms of rods available. What to choose?
Same as above but with pistons?

Even though its a street car, he doesnt really care about how 'streetable' it is. The owner has his goals and just wants to build a badass N/A 1uz.

The other issue we are unsure about is the oiling system...
Currently, as mentioned above, it has had the sump notched alot and has lost alot of volume. (previous owner did this). I put the volume back into the system by adding the cooler/lines/remote filter.
BUT, the bottom of the dipstick has been cut off so when the lines/cooler/filter are full, I still dont know how much oil to put in the motor.

The owner has pretty much made his mind up that he wants to run a dry sump setup and we have worked out how we can do it, but I dont know how many stages it needs to be. I have read that a v8 needs 1 feed and 4 scavange pumps (so a 5stage system) 2 cyls need 1 scavange. Is this true?
a 5 stage system will not be possible as we just dont have the room between the chassis rail/extractors and engine mount. And all other spaces are used up. He does not want anything moved. I know a 3 stage will fit, but not sure about a 4. I see TTC offers a fabricated dry sump pan which looks similar to the one 'ED' made? Would it suit our application? I can fab one, but Id have to do a alot of research to know what to make.

What do you guys recommened? Are there any good aftermarket oil pump upgrades for the 1uz. I have read that 2jz gears can be fitted by machining the pump housing?

If I can talk him out of the drysump setup then I will as it will save alot of rework with running lines all the way to the back etc. And Id also need to know where we should fill the oil up to on the dipstick if we keep the stock type oiling setup.

Sorry about the novel, but I am a fabricator. This build had seen me turn into a project manager, and it has only left my shop to be blasted and painted. I have been a bit out of my comfort zone in a few areas and this engine build will be another. Im mechanically minded but not super clued up on the performance areas of motors.

Thankyou in advance for your time and knowledge. I have a deadline of September and still have the interior and tray(deck) to finish, so most of it has to come apart again.



Super Moderator
Staff member
Sydney, Australia
I'd replace the intake and t/b with ITB's if money's no object.

For injectors go with Mazda RX7 red injectors (sorry don't know the part #) and hope Kelford's give you big flowing heads and heaps of compression.

The fuel system will be marginal and I'd up the exhaust to whatever size ports Kelford's give you.

I wouldn't have the headers narrow down like the existing set as there's the main restriction in the exhaust right there.

350kw @ the wheels N/A is a big ask out of 4.7 litres.

If it were mine I'd find the room to fit turbos and you'd get 350 standing on your head and way cheaper and more reliability

Oh and just buy a dipstick..


New Member
Why isnt there a 4.7 sticky? I have to search and read 15 different threads, some being 5 or 6 replies with answers that arent 100% sure. More like "iirc" answers and "use search". I have no problem searching but when it turns up iffy answers and replies not relating, it can be difficult searching.


Victoria, Australia
There hasnt been many people doing the 4.7. Possibly the people that have done them may not be all that willing to give away too many secrets... Knolledge is money i guess in the performance scene in relation to business making money by building HP.:):)


Active Member
Murrieta California
The 4.7l "hybrid" is pretty straightforward. To make it work, you will need aftermarket ross pistons for the 1uz... but with the 2uz bore. You can get away with OEM 2uz pistons if you like however you will need to take the pistons to a lathe to remove the crown curvature. This will result in a compression drop of around 1 point.

Once the pistons are sorted then you will need to re-balance everything (great time to upgrade rods) and its standard fare from there.