LS400 Supercharger Project

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Lex,
I have a 1993 LS. So many people have run this without any type of ECU or Fuel upgrade. I at least used a 1:1 FPR. I should have no problems at only 6lbs.
Should I regap the plugs???
Where should my fuel pressure be at idle and boost???
 
When in vacuum everything is perfect and normal....as soon as the bypass shuts and boost is about to be made it bogs down. Belt slip, boost leak???
 
I am begining to drive my car daily now, but not boosting due to a lean Air/fuel ratio. I am confused about whats going on. I plan on rebuilding the M90 and ran my gas talk dry and make sure there is no water in there.

Many people have made this work on a stock setup, so it should have no problems. I have my fuel pressure regulator maxed out and I am still lean. Everything works perfectly durring vacuum, but with boost it really struggles and misfires. Injectors tested OK 14.2 OHMs. O2 sensors maybe???
 
I would listen to some of the older folks in here if I am you. You gotta have some type of fuel management. Perhaps 1:1 fuel ratio is not enough and that is why you are running lean. What do you think if you have 12:1 instead of 1:1. Do you think you would run little less lean?
 
What are the different ratios for the FMU that you offer on your site. What would be the max fuel pressure the stock fuel pump can take??
 
If I went with an FMU would I be able to stick with the stock fuel pump at 7 PSI??? what ratio would be needed for this???
 
You may run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator at the rating of 12:1. This is generally good. There're also 10:1 and 8:1. It's also called the FMU. What it means is it'll add at any given boost PSI the fuel pressure will be 12 times of that amount plus the stock fuel pressure which maybe at 40 psi. For example, at 6 PSI the fuel pressure added by the FMU will 72 PSI, added to the stock of 40 PSI, totalling 112 PSI of fuel pressure. When using this FMU, you must use a high pressure-high flow fuel pump. Normally a 255 lph is a good choice. A high flow isn't enough, it must also be high pressure to withstand the pressure created by the FMU. If you don't use this pump, the regular pump will get stuck and voila, your engine is doomed.

However, some other members run 7 psi (M90 just like you) with stock fuel system on this stock engine without any problems. I don't know if this is possible or not, and I don't want to risk it.
 
Lex, I just installed the Begi FMU and I must say that you were right!!! The car has plenty of go now and I still have not fine tuned it yet...

I can spin up the tires on dry pavment in 100 degree heat with ease. Acceleration is wicked and will only get better!!!

Only problem is that during a few take off attempts the check engine light would flash and the car would buck and stop. The code I read was 41 TPS. I will need to readjust it as I messed with it after the intial install.

I will be taking everything off to rebuild the blower and install some teflon coated rotors off a GTP pontiac. I will add about 1.5 - 2 lbs. of boost, so I am not sure about this mod. It will be higher boost but with cooler temps I believe.
What do you think?
 
I am glad you take care of this important issue. Running lean is the worst thing for your engine longivity. If the AFR is good, an additional few pounds should be ok. Does your car have traction control? I would wait until you get all of the bugs iron out before upgrading anything. Make a video and share it. Imagine what you have now along with a torque converter. You will have many smiles on your face.
 
More air more fuel. The ECU must have been shutting down the engine when going lean.

Nice one ca12los.
 
The TPS code issue was solved with a replacement ECM I had lying around. I can't believe it was the computer holding me back this whole time. I ordered the Walbro and I may install it now depending on the performance of the original pump.

The blower is kind of loud, so it may need a rebuild soon. I am very happy with the preliminary results!!!!

Lex, I want the torque convertor, but will I be wasting a lot more fuel with it, how does it work?? Will I still be able to take off very smoothly like a lexus if I wanted to???? I want the benefits of the torque convertor, but I would still like to have the original smooth take off of the car when needed.
 
You are changing the TC not valve body. Valve body will shift very hard. However, TC will give you alot more torque. More fuel means more fun. No fuel means no fun. By putting the supercharger in, you are entering a new area where fuel would not be an issue. Walboro going to take some mpg too. So, I dont see why this is an issue.
 
Quick update....I just finished installing the Walbro high pressure pump....I can tell now that my original pump was on its way out. My wideband actually reads rich @ WOT and maintains it through the rev range.

I could not do that before it would just go to 11-12.5 @ WOT then back to 18.0 in a flash. My revs during vacuumand boost are lightning fast now. The only negative is the whine the fuel pump makes. At idle with no radio or AC you can hear the noise. I am sure I can do something to suppress it.

I will be installing the SMT6 piggyback within this week to try and get a decent self tune. I will be needing some help here, so anyone with experience with it please give some advice.

I will be posting more pics and a youtube video as soon as I can. I am really busy with school and cleaning up the garage after months and months of clutter have built up.

I would suggest getting a high pressure fuel pump if any of you guys are to supercharge the 1uzfe, just to be on the safe side. The FMU is definetely needed.
 
Also the car seems a lot quicker off the line if I bypass the fuel pump ECU, by jumping the "FP" & "+B" ports at the engine data box.

I have another fuel pump ECU and it behaves the same way. I guess the increased voltage is making the pump go into high gear quicker.
 
Excellent and please keep the updates, photos and new knowledge coming. I wish I was over there and could come for a drive in the car to see how well she goes and what I will have one day.

Have just bought the left overs from a front cut Celsior and picking up a dead engine this week end. The front cut is to one day sort out a clutch pedal set up first, before tyring to put it in my car so there is less down time for my car being off the road. And the dead engine is to use as a template for making up an inlet manifold etc and getting that all sorted out and lined up. Again, to reduce the time my car will be off the road.

Thanks again for your experiences and good luck with it all, Kevin

P.S. Someone suggested turning the leftover front cut into a BBQ, so there is an idea.
 
Well done ca12los, great looking setup.
I am doing a similar setup M90/home made manifold.
Would you please tell me the blower pulley diameter you have used to get your 6 psi, I take it you are using the standard crank pulley.
Cheers,
Matt.
 
A bit of bad news....the damn ecu keeps giving me a TPS code everytime I floor it or get past a certain throttle angle. If I cruise and barely push it I can drive normally, but as soon as I push the peddle down 1/4 way the engine bogs down and bucks. I will follow all the wiring back to the ECU and probably replace the sensor.

When I swapped ECU's it solved it, but just today it came back in the morning. I tried my old TPS and it did the same thing.

One question, did I mess the ECU up when I left the jumper wire connecting the Fuel pump (FP and +b) test ports on the engine diagnostic box??

I hope it is not an ECU issue. from my understanding if the idle contacts of the TPS do not open when the throttle is at a certain point than the injectors will be shut and timing retarded.

any similar experiences????
 


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