LS400 Supercharger Project

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

ca12los

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texas
I just recently received a Richwood Manifold with the rear intake to suit a M90 setup. This is absolutely a solid piece of work. Looks like it was meant to be on the engine from the factory.
Nobody else out there can give us better looking craftsmanship and durability. It maybe pricey to some of us, but there is no other option than doing it right.
I went with the M90 as a starting point to eventually get a twin screw later down the road. Hopefully this setup will go as planned and with a little help from you guys it can be reliable as well. I got an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator for a little added confidence and SMT6 interceptor which will be installed after the initial setup.
Let me know what your thoughts are...
 
What have I needed to fabricate myself???
So far I have been required to do is:

1. Rerouted the Engine data connector to the rear of engine as well as the Idle Air Control Valve. easy.
2. Cut fuel lines at best points to attach rubber fuel lines to aid in ease installation. Fuel rails are a bit wider apart so I felt this was better than bending and molding the original pipes.easy.
3.In the process of rerouting coolant and vacuum hoses all over the engine bay.easy.
4.Tap barbs into the manifold and into the rear intake for vacuum/boost. easy.
5.Brought a cheap intake tube from autozone and tapped more barbs into it for powersteering and Idle air control valve. This connects the throttle body to the MAF sensor.easy.
6.I used lextreme's PCV valve trick to add a PCV on the passenger side of engine too. Tough to fit the hoses into eachother. Much props Lex!!!
7.Made up a bracket to support the throttle cables and they were a real stretch to get them to reach, so hopefully the transmission shifting wont be too harsh. Difficult and frustrating.
8.I had to purchase a bunch of Orings to fit on the bypass valve to secure vacuum. O-ring # is 127. simple.
9.Grinded down the side of the manifold to squeze it in between the heads. headache.
10.Grinded down the bottom edge of the manifold to fit it over the by pass pipe and air pump pipe(cali cars only).headache.
11.The Manifold bolts that came with the kit were a bit long, so I had to cut them down about 1/4".simple.
12.Made a support for the front of the blower(washers), so that the drive belt pressure would not be able to pull the rear of the blower upward.easy.
13.The only obstacle for me is the drive belt pulleys. I am currently planning on having ScottURnot fabricate the pulleys for me when he has the time. Difficult.
14. Then I will have to figure out which way to run the top radiator hose. If I have to I will delete the engine fan for the electricals to clear up space...then all I would need to do is flip around the hose, so that it will clear the drive belt path. Difficult.
15.EGR delete. with a resistor to rid of the engine light. not fun at all I actually went under the car to remove and block off the EGR pipe with out removing the tranny. You may get away with just leaving the pipe at the rear of the manifold, but I am a neat freak and removed the damn thing.

The only tough parts are the EGR delete, throttle cables bracket and the pulleys. ScottURnot is the man to go to for help here. It seems like a bunch of work, but it ain't that bad. Supercharging is possible and with more people trying it we can eventually have a "simple" write up for it.

Much thanks to Andrew at Richwood Technologies for the great product and service. ScottURnot from clublexus has helped me a lot on this. He is a real genious. Thanks to all you guys for all your support. Good Luck!!! Much thanks to Lextreme for hosting this great site and connecting us all.
 
Here is an update..
I got the belt routed up pretty straight.
All I need is to finish up running the vacuum lines
Figure out how to run the upper radiator hose.
Everything else should be easy after that.
 
Very dedicated!!! Another Lextremist! :439: Is everything fit under the hood? Can you measure the clearance between the supercharger & the hood? It's just out of my curiosity. I'm not building any supercharger but I'm currently on the turbo project.
 
Good stuff

Just goes to show this is a fairly simple upgrade if you have all the parts.

I think Andrew would have had the pullies as well which would have saved a bit of time.

Thanks for showing us the build.
 
I finally had the balls to turn her on today. She started right up with no difficulties at all. After about a minute of chugging along, the engine would pulse up and down from 600 to about a 1800 every10 seconds. It was the ECU for sure, as unpluging the MAF stopped it right away.
I then reset the ECU, filled her up with more coolant, then restarted her and she actually had a pretty normal idle. Unfortunetely I could not get any good readings from the wideband, maybe when I put the exhaust pipes back on it will read normal.
I reved it up a few times up to about 3500 and I could definetely hear a little whine going on. I hope to have some time 2morrow to fit the exhaust back on. It sounded like a 390 '68 mustang. It backfired when I reved her up quickly. Fuel pressure was at stock spec. and my darn electronic boost gauge is on the fritz, so no good readings there either.
I am using NGK cheapy plugs with a .035 gap. I research and found out that I would do well with them. What do you guys think?????
I will definetely have more 2morrow. Good night guys!!!!
 
Sweet! I'm glad she's running and you are on your way to taking a test drive. Let's hope all the stock stuff works out for you. Get in 80 easy miles and hopefully the ECU will learn how to adapt to the changes...
 
I am in the process of putting the exhaust back and rewiring my boost gauge which still does not work. I have to put some RTV gasket on the thermistat pipe because I saw a future leak.
No check engine light thus far, just the ECU struggling with the transplant. It did not overheat and the timing was just right...I will just keep my faith and hope for the best.
BTW...Here is a picture of my gated shifter in a first generation LS400..
 
I have everything up and running pretty much as it should. I finally got the boost gauge working and I have found out that as soon as the bypass valve shuts close and the blower starts making boost it just bogs down. I can hear ther blower getting that whine, but it just bogs down, the wideband starts working its way to around 13.0 but then just goes all the way back to (air) ---.
My plugs are NGK coppers gapped at .035
Stock wires, stock intake, all ignition parts were in good shape and resistance.
The blower will need to be rebuilt, but should not be the culprit. Belt slip may cause this, however I have the same setup as so many others and my tensioner does shake a little but marks right where it should.

What do you think????
 
Fuel? I see you have a fuel regulator fitted does this bypass the oem regulator?

Maybe it's sucking too much air for the AFM / ECU to cope with.
What boost are you reading?

Your getting close it must be something simple.
 
I have a bone stock setup other then the blower. 6 lbs pulley.
AEM wideband.
No obvious knocking. Only a hint of white steam from tail pipes, I have changed the valve on the power steering already FYI.
The OEM regulator is still there but does not do anything since I have the Aeromotive working after it. Where should my fuel pressure be at idle and at boost???? Are the plugs OK at .035???
 
So,

How does your engine/ECU know when you have boost? I know people run M90 without any type of fuel management. I think you need a FMU or something similar. Looks like you have a 1995 and newer LS400. Aeromotive is 1:1 FPR.
 


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