Immo ECU with matched KEY

[George_R]

At the moment I suppose faulty ECU, or non-immobilized ECU, or incorrect pinout.

Try to find a 'flashing' pin on the 26-pin connector. Bottom row.

Pin TXCT must flash for a while after turning ignition on, if KSW is left unconnected. If supposing different pinout, we expect the TXCT pin to be in any location.

If NO single pin on the connector flashes after turning ignition on, then the ECU is faulty or it has no immobilizer

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

At the moment I suppose faulty ECU, or non-immobilized ECU, or incorrect pinout.

Try to find a 'flashing' pin on the 26-pin connector. Bottom row.

Pin TXCT must flash for a while after turning ignition on, if KSW is left unconnected. If supposing different pinout, we expect the TXCT pin to be in any location.

If NO single pin on the connector flashes after turning ignition on, then the ECU is faulty or it has no immobilizer

Thanks!

I found two flashing pins, that was previosly labeled like MPX1 and MPX2. There are two PINK/BLUE pins located at possitions #11 and #24. BUT the piggy backs belongs to JDM engine, not to USDM ECU so color do not say anything. Have you seen this pinout before???


Should be 2 pins flashing or just one?
How to identify RXCK, CODE and TXCT?
Which other wire need to be grounded or powered?

 

[George_R]

MPX pins can be flashing actually because ECU is continuously trying to transmit/receive data to/from dash, air conditioning unit etc etc
If there's 0ohm (continuity) between MPX1 and MPX2 then the pinout is correct

There's also IMLD pin (security indicator). It will flash slowly (once per second) until the ignition is turned on with a valid key.

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

MPX pins can be flashing actually because ECU is continuously trying to transmit/receive data to/from dash, air conditioning unit etc etc
If there's 0ohm (continuity) between MPX1 and MPX2 then the pinout is correct

There's also IMLD pin (security indicator). It will flash slowly (once per second) until the ignition is turned on with a valid key.

Continuity between MPX1 and MPX2 is only 1ohm
There is a pin (#3) that flashes 5Volts around one per second, on OFF and POS key possition. That should be IMLD pin.

#11 and #24, MPXs maybe fast flashes on POS.
#20 did not flash, but send 4V on OFF and 12V on POS.

Could not find any other flashing pin.

This is the output diagram

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

Continuity between MPX1 and MPX2 is only 1ohm
There is a pin (#3) that flashes 5Volts around one per second, on OFF and POS key possition. That should be IMLD pin.

#11 and #24, MPXs maybe fast flashes on POS.
#20 did not flash, but send 4V on OFF and 12V on POS.

Could not find any other flashing pin.

This is the output diagram

and the pinout video
http://youtu.be/oM9-0ZyhydM

 

[George_R]

ok, so pin 3 is indeed IMLD pin, same location as on LS400 vvti
that almost guarantees that the rest of the pinout is correct

if you short KSW to ground and turn ignition on, would you see flashing on any of the pins among RXCK,CODE,TXCT?

Normally, with every ECU I installed immo bypass on, the KSW pin was not relevant. I even did immo off on USDM LS400,LS430 and European LS400 and I left the KSW unconnected. Check that KSW thing just in case your ECU is some special.

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

ok, so pin 3 is indeed IMLD pin, same location as on LS400 vvti
that almost guarantees that the rest of the pinout is correct

if you short KSW to ground and turn ignition on, would you see flashing on any of the pins among RXCK,CODE,TXCT?

Normally, with every ECU I installed immo bypass on, the KSW pin was not relevant. I even did immo off on USDM LS400,LS430 and European LS400 and I left the KSW unconnected. Check that KSW thing just in case your ECU is some special.

I just made some tests with different ECUs that I got.

With the ECU that we are talking about (USD 89661-3A464) I realize that TXCT red wires flashes just once when power, but a single flash and that´s all . Same as two JDMs 89661-50450.

The other JDM (98661-50520) flashes several times trough TXCT red wire like you told.

There is no change if KSW is grounded or not.-

 

[George_R]

ok
now can you take the -50520 ecu and connect your amplifier to it?
LED connected to antenna must flash continously
that would almost ensure that the amplifier is ok

 

[sideshow]

best thing to do is wire up an led to the security light wire on the ecu

if the light goes out then the key is matched

i recon the set u have is not matched
are you 200% sure the key and reader and ecu is of a working car

i have a small tool that tells me if the key works in 2 seconds
very handy for testing stuff like this

just buy a bypass module and you dont need the key anymore


u dont need ksw connected
just the wires for the key amplifier and if its a matching set it should start

also wire up a proper obd2 plug so u can understand the data better

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

ok
now can you take the -50520 ecu and connect your amplifier to it?
LED connected to antenna must flash continously
that would almost ensure that the amplifier is ok

best thing to do is wire up an led to the security light wire on the ecu

if the light goes out then the key is matched

i recon the set u have is not matched
are you 200% sure the key and reader and ecu is of a working car

i have a small tool that tells me if the key works in 2 seconds
very handy for testing stuff like this

just buy a bypass module and you dont need the key anymore


u dont need ksw connected
just the wires for the key amplifier and if its a matching set it should start

also wire up a proper obd2 plug so u can understand the data better

I made several tests and discovered that if I unplug the fuel pump ground, the led stops flashing, but when put it back, it starts blinking.
With this, when cranking the engine does not starts.
So, I plug the pump to accumulate pressure in the rail an put the ground off, and the engine started till consumed the fuel rail gas.
(I run circuit totaly apart of ECU for Ingnition, sensors, start and fuel pumps, this means the the relay triggers are feeded by the contact key, no the ECU).
Then started to blinking again in OFF!. So I remove the key´s chip and moved from ring´s center to the border, and engine starts again. great! Its hard to start anyway, but starts.

I checked the blinking signal of the coil ring in both ECU and no one blinks, just one flash.

I will made some tests later if all continues ok!

 

[George_R]

these are weirdest things I could ever imagine about these ECUs. Can't imagine what's wrong with them but I've NEVER seen things like these

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

these are weirdest things I could ever imagine about these ECUs. Can't imagine what's wrong with them but I've NEVER seen things like these

VERY weird.

No is giving good signals all the time.

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

VERY weird.

No is giving good signals all the time.

I said "Now"

Thanks for your great support

 

[sideshow]

maybe u have forgotten to bolt one of the earths on back of heads
does sound like a wiring issue or the fking ecu having an acid trip

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

Is the KSW same as "key Sense"? just a simple switch that is grounded when key is inserted?

 

[George_R]

Yes but I've never yet seen a conversion where it would be significant for starting up the engine.

I would double Sideshow for loose grounds or ECU's having an LSD trip

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

Yes but I've never yet seen a conversion where it would be significant for starting up the engine.

I would double Sideshow for loose grounds or ECU's having an LSD trip

Yep, we are 3. Because the engine was running ok every time I plugged a non immo ecu.

 

[George_R]

Sorry I don't remember from the thread - Gonzalo, have you tried connectioning EOM to ground?

In my practice, I never did it (though that connection is shown on wiring diagram) and all ECUs ran fine. However, one UZS175 ECU was different for some reason, had to connect E1 to EOM otherwise immo system did not work

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

Sorry I don't remember from the thread - Gonzalo, have you tried connectioning EOM to ground?

In my practice, I never did it (though that connection is shown on wiring diagram) and all ECUs ran fine. However, one UZS175 ECU was different for some reason, had to connect E1 to EOM otherwise immo system did not work

I tried with and without grounding EOM with same results.

I am still lost with the KSW. Watching some videos on the LS400 IMMO, I see the safety light flashes when door is open, and stops just when the key is inserted. But as per diagram, the antenna amplifier is feed by +B not BATT. So in the OEM configuration, the KSW switch is who trigger the immo to send the key signal.
But how is that possible if the amplifier is not powered when you insert the key in OFF possition?

In my current configuration, if I place the chip in the ring and ground the KSW, the security flash did not stop, I need to power the relays to turn IMLD light off. Then, If I take the chip out, the light starts flashing just when remove the KSW. (in this setup I run the amp to BATT)

 

[Gonzalo Bravo]

Sorry I don't remember from the thread - Gonzalo, have you tried connectioning EOM to ground?

In my practice, I never did it (though that connection is shown on wiring diagram) and all ECUs ran fine. However, one UZS175 ECU was different for some reason, had to connect E1 to EOM otherwise immo system did not work

I tried with and without grounding EOM with same results.

I am still lost with the KSW. Watching some videos on the LS400 IMMO, I see the safety light flashes when door is open, and stops just when the key is inserted. But as per diagram, the antenna amplifier is feed by +B not BATT. So in the OEM configuration, the KSW switch is who trigger the immo to send the key signal.
But how is that possible if the amplifier is not powered when you insert the key in OFF possition?

In my current configuration, if I place the chip in the ring and ground the KSW, the security flash did not stop, I need to power the relays to turn IMLD light off. Then, If I take the chip out, the light starts flashing just when remove the KSW. (in this setup I run the amp to BATT)