Have WOLF but thinking of going std. ECU

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

twisty_toy94

New Member
Messages
194
Location
Sunshine Coast, QLD, Aust.
I have just about got enough money to get my conversion underway but can't deciede what to do as it has now come time to purchase the motor or halfcut.

I'm currently running WOLF on the V6 in my 4Runner but due to a tuning error the V6 has died due to exessive detonation, which I was told by the tuner was an exhaust manifold leak.

I've had a chat to 400ZED on the phone (thanks mate) and while it seems the 1UZ can run well on the WOLF I think I'd rather plug in the std. ecu and go have fun. I don't plan to do any mods in the future and just want a truck that runs like factory again. I was never happy with the WOLF running on the V6, but the tuner I used was crap and turned half the features off to save setup time!!

Those looms from venom sound good and so does looking into flying Slideshow up to wire it up as his prices sound good. Feel like a holiday on the Sunshine Coast Slideshow?

I can't really buy an engine or halfcut yet as if I keep the wolf I only need an engine, but I guess I'll need a halfcut if I'm going to run a std. ecu.

So I'm pretty much just after other people thought with what they would do if faced with my situation??

Anyone keen to maybe by my WOLF Ecu with Hand Controller?
 
Check out the article in "conversions" on the home page of this Site. There is a good write up on an installation in NZ.

I don't know what engine you need as I don't know what sump suits your car. I know Leon in NZ had to modify his quite extensively. Have a read.

Will you run the 4 runner auto or a manual.

Basically what gearbox you plan to run affects the choice of engine.

Personally I would always buy a Crown halfcut.

Simple to wire, you can delete the tans if you want and they are cheaper.

If you get a half cut you end up with things like radiators etc which will save you money down the track.
 
Yeah I've read through just about every bit of info I've been able to find with regards to putting it into a 4Runner/Surf/Hilux.

From what I can gather I will definetly need a front sump since I have IFS, but it will still require some minor modifications.

I will be running my Std. R150F 5 speed, which is supposed to be more than capable of handling the extra horsepower as I have the std. V6 motor in it at the moment.

I really don't need half the junk that comes in a halfcut, I'm only going to need the engine, ecu and loom. Or just an engine if I keep the WOLF. The only advantage of getting the half cut would be wether you can get enough money out of selling all the stuff I wouldn't need out of it??


EDZ - I have a Version 4 Wolf with Handcontroller. It won't plug into the std. loom it will have to be wired in. It will come with the ECU, Handcontroller, Manuals, Laptop software, Memory Cartridge (which allows you to run two totally different maps). I would probably need about $850 minimum for it to be worthwhile me selling it.
 
Well the WOLF is deffinetly going now. I spoke to Venom in brisbane yesterday and he is doing plug in looms for $700 dollars now. You still have to supply a loom for him, but I reckon for $700 you cant go wrong. Specially to have all guages etc.. working and an engine that runs like factory..

Hopefully it should all get underway in about 2 weeks!! Can't wait!!

Just a quick question, what fuel do you need to run for the std. ECU? I'm guessing normal premium as a minimum? but the higher octane ones if possible?
 
Twisty,

These engines will just about run on Kerosene.

The knock sensors will retard the ignition if the octane rating is too low and advance it when the fuel will allow it.

Standard ULP is sufficient. but PULP will allow more advance which should give you more performance.
 
Cool, thanks Zuffen. That was another problem with running the wolf is I would always have to use the same octane or higher petrol, which being a 4x4 becomes a problem when on outback trips.

I did get a memory cartridge allowing me to run two maps, but it's going to be a lot less worry and hassel running the std. ecu.
 
for smoothness and softness of drivin the std ecu is the best

and cant go wrong especially if u dont intend to do any mods

basically just get extractors made up and decent exhaust and u will get about 15 kws more which is good gain

i will be up in qld from 19th oct till about 5th or 10th nov

if u send me the loom i can wire it up for you

but it wont be 100%

i just dont know how these guys say thats its 100% plug in and everything will work

plus it wont be very neat

on my ute i have run wires under the gaurd to hide things
theres no way u can do that with a pre made loom

and also depending what gbox u run then u have to integrate the old gbox into the new loom if u use old gbox

then u have probs with getting the speedo to be accurate if u run a diff gbox

then if its the crown u need to run the abs ecu

there are too many variables with these engines to be able to pre make a loom and get everything to work accurately

if all u want is the engine to run then its piss easy

if u want it to look neat
all sensors to work
hidden wiring
etc
then thats y i travel to the car and do it
and to goto melb or brissy i only charge 200 bucks extra onto
which aint to bad considering

but since il be in qld for a job i can do it a tiny bit cheaper
 
sorry to but in, but would that also mean that when i fit a 1uz into a Bayliner boat replacing a 5.8 ford boat mooring that it would be easy for me to use the standard ecu not needing to purchase say a autronic system?.
Keep in mind that it wil be an inboard application and will be subject to an marine enviroment (moist). Would i still use a standard harness or custom made one with just engine controls included?.

Paul
 
I like the reference to a FORD boat mooring. Ever so true.

You could try spraying the ecu circuit boards with a waterproofing agent (sold by electonics stores) which will seal the board permanently from the effect of water. We are not taking WD40 here we are talking clear shellac (or its modern equivalent) to encapsule the ECU boards.

There is no reason why you can't get the whole Lexus system to work on a boat.
 


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