Conservative FI setup

[JBrady]

IMO, do a combination on a 2UZFE block.

Your 93 SC400 is probably making 175rwhp/185rwtq.

The non-vvti Tundra 2UZFE is 4.66 liters (4.7 advertised) with an iron block, 94mm bore and 84mm stroke and rated 240hp/315tq.

Use your stock heads and intake. This will raise compression to 11.5 to 1 due to the increase in bore and stroke. You want to port both your heads and the intake manifold. I am not certain what octane you would need for this compression. This is based on 51.8cc combustion chamber volume. You can do some minor chamber work to get the ratio down. 54cc chambers gets you 11 to 1. 56cc gets you 10.75. 10.75 should work fine on 93 octane R+M/2 (USA spec)

The end result should be a complete factory appearance externally that will deliver probably 60 more rwtq (dyno re-calculated, much more in reality) and 30rwhp or possibly more.

Some other options included looking for 1995-1997 LS400 or Celsior exhaust manifolds and heat shields. The are dual tube vs single tube and have EGR connections.

Mild increases in cam timing.

Increasing the bore from 94mm to 97mm taking displacement from 4.66 liters to 4.97 liters.

With a better intake manifold and exhaust with tuning this combination is probably capable of 250-260rwhp and similar torque.

 

[Lextreme II]

IMO, do a combination on a 2UZFE block.

Your 93 SC400 is probably making 175rwhp/185rwtq.

The non-vvti Tundra 2UZFE is 4.66 liters (4.7 advertised) with an iron block, 94mm bore and 84mm stroke and rated 240hp/315tq.

Use your stock heads and intake. This will raise compression to 11.5 to 1 due to the increase in bore and stroke. You want to port both your heads and the intake manifold. I am not certain what octane you would need for this compression. This is based on 51.8cc combustion chamber volume. You can do some minor chamber work to get the ratio down. 54cc chambers gets you 11 to 1. 56cc gets you 10.75. 10.75 should work fine on 93 octane R+M/2 (USA spec)

The end result should be a complete factory appearance externally that will deliver probably 60 more rwtq (dyno re-calculated, much more in reality) and 30rwhp or possibly more.

Some other options included looking for 1995-1997 LS400 or Celsior exhaust manifolds and heat shields. The are dual tube vs single tube and have EGR connections.

Mild increases in cam timing.

Increasing the bore from 94mm to 97mm taking displacement from 4.66 liters to 4.97 liters.

With a better intake manifold and exhaust with tuning this combination is probably capable of 250-260rwhp and similar torque.

John,

Since you are at this larger cubic topic. Why not a 5.2L stroker? With good heads and tuning 300 rwhp easily.

 

[supercoupe]

I sure like the sound of that. Definitely something I will consider. We get 95 or 98 octane over here btw, although I'm not sure if the rating system is the same.

 

[Lextreme II]

Another thing you can do is to hide the NOS. You can run the nozzles under the upper manifold. You can mount them on the lower manifold. This setup completely hidden from view.

 

[supercoupe]

Not sure why, but I just don't really like the idea of NOS. But I'll think about the other suggestions that were mentioned here. I at some point you know someone who wants to get rid of a complete SC kit, I'd appreciate a heads up. Also contacted Richwood, I'll see what they have to say.

Thanks

 

[spf_lexus]

any way to tune the FMU with a piggyback or something just for idle/no-boost cruising situations?

 

[XR8tt]

Fmu's are functional through manifold pressure / vacuum ..
Cannot see any way it can be done electronically ??

A voltage reg to fuel pump can very pressure ?
Often used when big fuel pumps are used to slow pump flow down
to prevent heat built up in fuel...
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm
;

 

[stevechumo]

any way to tune the FMU with a piggyback or something just for idle/no-boost cruising situations?

There're several FMU that can be adjusted with the fuel pressure. Also, the Vortech FMU type can have fixed calibration kits for different ratio. You can have a piggy-back ECU to tune larger fuel injectors, along with the FMU if the fuel injectors aren't big enough for the power. This setup must be calculated right if you run more than 9 psi.

 

[spf_lexus]

I plan on using the cartech FMU but honestly have no idea how its setup. I know its supposed to detect rising fuel demands and ups the fuel pressure accordingly but is it neccessary for a 6psi setup? I know i need it and more psi will require more fuel but can I get away w/ stock systems on 6psi for now?

 

[XR8tt]

6 Lb should be o/k with meth / water added to inlet ??
Or another injector down stream from butterfly...??

The std fuel reg will hold fuel pressure a set amount above manifold pressure.. Say fuel pressure is 40 Lb at idle [whatever the manufacterer sets fuel reg at?] . With 6Lb on inlet fuel pressure with be 46Lb.. On a rising rate of 2 to 1 the pressure will be 52Lb.. But it does put more strain on fuel pump as it has to supply more fuel at a higher pressure.. Depending on injectors? I wouldn't go over 6 to 1 reg..

Nothing beats a good piggy back and correct injectors.. Plus the piggy back has [should have] a MAP sensor with at least 2 bar so it reads boost up to 15Lb.. Std MAP sensors are 1 bar which is atmospheric pressure 14.7 at sea level.. So you can see there's NO real tuning with boost, can be made alittle easier if compression is lowered alittle..

 

[stevechumo]

I'm using the 12:1 ratio. For every psi of boost, the fuel pressure is added with 12 psi. I'm currently running 6 psi of boost and have about 72 psi of fuel pressure plus 40 psi of stock equalling 112 psi of fuel pressure. It's ok so far. I actually ran 8 psi of boost with this setup on another Honda just fine. The thing to consider is a hi-flow hi-pressure fuel pump and good condition stock fuel injectors.

 

[JustenGT8]

Yikes that's a bit extreme Steve.....as a pressure differential my injectors see 44 (base) + 17 (FPR) - 17psi (boost) = 44psi

Your injectors see 40 (base) + 72 (FPR) - 6 (boost) = 106psi

That's nearly 3 times what they were designed to take....general rule of thumb is a 20% MAX increase in pressure. I strongly suspect your injectors can't even close at that pressure.

Rising rate regs are a bandaid and not a very good one at that, they also make tuning soooooo much harder as the fuelling needes are now non linear.

I never realised your setup ran this Steve....throw a littel extra cash at it mate and get a proper ECU in there running piggyback with the stocky.

 

[stevechumo]

Yikes that's a bit extreme Steve.....as a pressure differential my injectors see 44 (base) + 17 (FPR) - 17psi (boost) = 44psi

Your injectors see 40 (base) + 72 (FPR) - 6 (boost) = 106psi

That's nearly 3 times what they were designed to take....general rule of thumb is a 20% MAX increase in pressure. I strongly suspect your injectors can't even close at that pressure.

Rising rate regs are a bandaid and not a very good one at that, they also make tuning soooooo much harder as the fuelling needes are now non linear.

I never realised your setup ran this Steve....throw a littel extra cash at it mate and get a proper ECU in there running piggyback with the stocky.

:laugh: I know it's extreme, but it's doable. I never had any issue with 7-8 psi with this set up before. And I think several turbo books also suggest this at the maximum at 9 psi. Many 50 state legal Vortech supercharger setups use this at 8 psi. As you know they're high quality systems. They never had any problems at all. Here they're: http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/view.php?f_cat=VORTECH+SYSTEMS:+Sport+Compact. Many other turbo & supercharger kits go this way, too. In fact, when I run this setup, the car drives like stock and the A/F ratio is just so perfect like a perfect tuning. At crusing or idle, the A/F ratio is around 15 or a little bit leaner. If I lightly boost, it is at around 13, but at WOT, it goes down to 12-12.5, sometimes 10-11 if I hold down the gas a bit longer. The FMU only works when the manifold pressure is increased and very linear.

Well, my plan is 12 psi with a twin 1600 cc/min injectors controlled by the Split Second.

 

[XR8tt]

Sheesh ECU's are not that expensive!!
Base EMS is under $1k pluss $350 fitting and tune...
Much much safer and they tune ignition as well...
How can you run that much boost with std ignition curve ??

 

[JustenGT8]

:laugh: I know it's extreme, but it's doable. I never had any issue with 7-8 psi with this set up before. And I think several turbo books also suggest this at the maximum at 9 psi. Many 50 state legal Vortech supercharger setups use this at 8 psi. As you know they're high quality systems. They never had any problems at all. Here they're: http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/view.php?f_cat=VORTECH+SYSTEMS:+Sport+Compact. Many other turbo & supercharger kits go this way, too. In fact, when I run this setup, the car drives like stock and the A/F ratio is just so perfect like a perfect tuning. At crusing or idle, the A/F ratio is around 15 or a little bit leaner. If I lightly boost, it is at around 13, but at WOT, it goes down to 12-12.5, sometimes 10-11 if I hold down the gas a bit longer. The FMU only works when the manifold pressure is increased and very linear.

Well, my plan is 12 psi with a twin 1600 cc/min injectors controlled by the Split Second.

Yeah i can't deny it works and i guess if it meets your needs.....no offense but just seems so half arsed to me when a fully programmable ECU is so 'easy' these days?

We are a bit spoilt in Oz for choice of aftermarket ECUS and don't have your smog laws either....has developed a different mentality on how to do things i guess?

BTW, the SC is off and new intake is nearly done. Hoping for 350rwkw on 12psi!! Could your rising rate reg do that?

 

[stevechumo]

Yeah i can't deny it works and i guess if it meets your needs.....no offense but just seems so half arsed to me when a fully programmable ECU is so 'easy' these days?

We are a bit spoilt in Oz for choice of aftermarket ECUS and don't have your smog laws either....has developed a different mentality on how to do things i guess?

BTW, the SC is off and new intake is nearly done. Hoping for 350rwkw on 12psi!! Could your rising rate reg do that?

You guys are really lucky over there on car mods. Here we could get a huge ticket that could cost an arm and a leg for modding. Anyway, 12 psi on a 12:1 FMU isn't recommended. But a 6:1 or 8:1 FMU might do along with bigger injectors. It just takes some careful calculations and tuning. A lot of people have been doing this way.

 

[XR8tt]

Yea well !! I know a little about tuning ..An FMU is NOT EPA legal..
We can [in some states here] just get system engineered and checked by authorities.. I'm sure if it was tuned with Motec,Autronic, FAST etc by competent tuner. It will pass emissions also..