zenki13.4
New Member
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Calgary Alberta Canada
Hey guys,
Im pretty new to the 1uz scene but have been building jdm cars/motors for years now. Im currently building a turbo 1uz s13.4 zenki as my drift beater so I dont smash up my ls2 turbo s13.4 zenki. I was planning on keeping it n/a but decided to do a turbo to achieve some cheap power and keep it similar to my other 240sx. I have taken the motor down to just having the heads still on because it was leaking like a siv, thats when I decided to boost it. Im deleting the ps pump and ac and using a remote mount mr2 electric ps pump. Ive done some reading and picked up a set of ARP head studs but didnt purchase a mhg since two stock ones were supplied with my gasket kit. My question is that how much psi can I push through a stock hg on a 1uz with arp studs befor I start getting ballsy pushing it too much and if I should do stiffer springs and retainers, stuff like that? I dont want to rip the engine completly apart and would like to leave the bottom end alone. $ isnt an issue. Im planning on running 7mge injectors, 255 walbro fuel pump, Holset he351cw on flipped ebay tundra headers and tune it with an apexi safc neo. I was also looking at a ms3 standalone, can anyone tell me about what people are saying by grinding off teeth? I read that article a while ago. Ive never had to do anything to an angine with adding a standalone befor or will my safc be sufficient without having any way to adjust timing? I would be extremely happy to achieve between 300-400whp reliably. Any comments/tips will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Im pretty new to the 1uz scene but have been building jdm cars/motors for years now. Im currently building a turbo 1uz s13.4 zenki as my drift beater so I dont smash up my ls2 turbo s13.4 zenki. I was planning on keeping it n/a but decided to do a turbo to achieve some cheap power and keep it similar to my other 240sx. I have taken the motor down to just having the heads still on because it was leaking like a siv, thats when I decided to boost it. Im deleting the ps pump and ac and using a remote mount mr2 electric ps pump. Ive done some reading and picked up a set of ARP head studs but didnt purchase a mhg since two stock ones were supplied with my gasket kit. My question is that how much psi can I push through a stock hg on a 1uz with arp studs befor I start getting ballsy pushing it too much and if I should do stiffer springs and retainers, stuff like that? I dont want to rip the engine completly apart and would like to leave the bottom end alone. $ isnt an issue. Im planning on running 7mge injectors, 255 walbro fuel pump, Holset he351cw on flipped ebay tundra headers and tune it with an apexi safc neo. I was also looking at a ms3 standalone, can anyone tell me about what people are saying by grinding off teeth? I read that article a while ago. Ive never had to do anything to an angine with adding a standalone befor or will my safc be sufficient without having any way to adjust timing? I would be extremely happy to achieve between 300-400whp reliably. Any comments/tips will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
$1400 Collins Performance 1uz ka24de tranny adaptor kit w/ clutch & light weight flywheel, $60 ka24 tranny, $800 for used d2 coilovers and isis multi link suspension, $100 isis 3" to dual 4" catback exhaust, $500 z32 brake upgrade with 5 lug hub $100 front conversion 5x114.3 hubs, $500 1st gen non trac control 1uz pull out, $200 tundra headers, $100 turbo piping. $400 Ebay turbo kit/intercooler/piping/waste gate/bov/fpr ect, everything but turbo, $200 mr2 ps pump, $300 arp studs, $150 timing belt and tensioner kit, $200 full gasket kit, $80 walbro 255, $12 ea new 7mge injectors and $250 Holset He351cw. And $1250 for 10 18x9.5 xxr 522 wheels. Im doing all my fab work myself for turbo piping and am hoping to have it all done and tuned for under 6g.
