beaten by a 1uz

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
pins 2 and 3 on air flow meter. yellow black pin 2 yellow green pin 3. take a normal 12v test light the 1 with a bulb that lights up not a digital 1. connect the clamp to ground and while the engine is idling stab the other end into yellow black and then yellow green.listen to the cars idle listen for change.If it should rise it means that your airflow is faulty.but then also check pin 1 it should be ground and also pin 5 it must also be ground that colors shall be brown
 
the problem with checkng air flow signal wire isi dont think its a straight linear voltage increase
so u need an oscilloscope to meausre it
even then who knows whatthe bloody signalk should look like
ive plugged scanners into 1uzs and can read air flow signal
but unless u plug it into th same model ecu on a perfectly running car how do u know if the measurements r correct
unfortunately these days everything is borrow part and test and borrow another part n test and with limited info and testing machines most places just guess at whats wrong

anyway i recon if u unplug the air flow it should not still blow out sheitloads of black smoke
might run funny but not be very very rich
as it should have a default fuel mapfor unplugged air flow
maybe u have other issues
but i recon u need to see if its one or two cyl;inders tha r rich
or the whole lot so go thru and see if u cn disable each cylinder to test it
its not that hard
 
sideshow said:
the problem with checkng air flow signal wire isi dont think its a straight linear voltage increase
so u need an oscilloscope to meausre it
even then who knows whatthe bloody signalk should look like
ive plugged scanners into 1uzs and can read air flow signal
but unless u plug it into th same model ecu on a perfectly running car how do u know if the measurements r correct
unfortunately these days everything is borrow part and test and borrow another part n test and with limited info and testing machines most places just guess at whats wrong

anyway i recon if u unplug the air flow it should not still blow out sheitloads of black smoke
might run funny but not be very very rich
as it should have a default fuel mapfor unplugged air flow
maybe u have other issues
but i recon u need to see if its one or two cyl;inders tha r rich
or the whole lot so go thru and see if u cn disable each cylinder to test it
its not that hard
Click to expand...

ok it still runs super rich and funky with or without the afm.
can i dissable the injectors by simply pulling the harness connectors off each one , one at a time? and seeing if the smoke clears?
 
yes
then do this test
use a screw driver as a stethoscope and see if all are clicking
maybe some are stuck open
if one injecotr wire is shorted to ground this will mean 2 inejctors are staying fully open
 
sideshow said:
yes
then do this test
use a screw driver as a stethoscope and see if all are clicking
maybe some are stuck open
if one injecotr wire is shorted to ground this will mean 2 inejctors are staying fully open
Click to expand...
ok no problem ill do it today after class and report back

newmon1978 said:
pins 2 and 3 on air flow meter. yellow black pin 2 yellow green pin 3. take a normal 12v test light the 1 with a bulb that lights up not a digital 1. connect the clamp to ground and while the engine is idling stab the other end into yellow black and then yellow green.listen to the cars idle listen for change.If it should rise it means that your airflow is faulty.but then also check pin 1 it should be ground and also pin 5 it must also be ground that colors shall be brown
Click to expand...
ok what wiring diagram are you looking at and for what year of car cause my diagram reads like this
1 black/red B (runs to the idle air control valve)
2 blue/yellow VG (runs to ecu pin66)
3 yellow/black THA (runs to ecu pin 45)
4 brown E2(ties into tps stps collant temp, and egr gas temp sensors before hitting the ecu at pin65)
5 green/white EVG (runs to ecu pin 70)
 
Why dont you go aftermarket wiring it ourself will take less than have a day.the 1's i installed on vehicles that does not have original computer takes me aoubt 4 hours to wire up.fuel consumption is excellent. i get wot 5km/l and at 140 to 160km/h 7.8 to 8km/l
 
I wouldn't suggest trying to go aftermarket.

If you're struggling with the stock system you'll go under trying to wire and tune aftermarket.

Do as Sideshow says. Work through this and you'll sort it out.

Jim (Sideshow) probably knows more about 1UZ wiring and problem diagnosis than anyone on this Forum.

I've been watching this thread from the sidelines and you need to go back to basics.

Look at what you have.

1. the engine has been transplanted into your Supra
2. did the problem start after you had driven the car for a while (say a week or more) or straight up from when you started it straight after the swap?
3. who wired the swap up? did they know what they were doing or have done it before.

What you need to do is try and work out where and when the problem arose and go back and sort it out.

You're first post doesn't give enough information and we've had to weedle it out of you.

Tell us much as you can and we'll do our best to help you out.

Could you do a post with some history on the motor and swap. Have you seen this motor running before the swap?

Give us as much as you can and we'll work with you.
 
His prob is too much fuel
Only thing that can cause this is injectors
So work around that
Also I don't reply to any emails if they ask for diagrams
This is what people don't understand
If I had have done the wiring then I help over the phone or net
For as long as it takes
But I guess spending the extra money isn't worth it
That's y it's taken ages and gotten nowhere
And that's y I don't help 100%
I'll just point u in right direction then u can learn from there
 
JIm,

I'm inclined to agree with you but I suspect it may be overfuelling as it's in limp mode/getting incorrect information from a wiring error.

I guess first thing to know is if it ran right before being dropped into the Supra.

If it was we work forward from there.

I fully understand your postion on providing too much help.

If you told everyone how to did it and fixed everyone's problems you would be out of business and unemployed.

I think there's a large number of Lexus owners who have you to thank for sorting out their problems.
 
Yes need to know if It ran good in other car
Also Im guessing in limp mode Toyota would not
Have programmed the limp side of it to run so rich
But I might be wrong
 
another goo dtest if u dont have many tools is
get a long flat blade screwdriver
put the handle end against your ear put the flat end on an injector while motor is running

they should all click in a similar fashion
if any are not clicking or doing somehting abnormal look at that cylinder
another thing is unplug all sensors that are not needed to make motor run
eg tps maybe air flow and coolant
see if i tmakes a difference
apart form that your on yr own
as to explain on how to go deeper into this will justg confuse you and u need specialised tools
 
can i just say that i LOVE ALL OF YOU for all your help with this god forsaken project.
i revisited the inital wiring and re traced all my wires and found that the small red and black wire on the eb2 connector under the hood it wasnt connected and as soon as i spliced it in and cranked the motor it idled at 1100 for a min or so then dropped down to about 600 and is smoooth as silk
i done know how one wire could cause so much of a problem
i also ran half a can of seafoam through the injectors lol.
ill be running the car tomorow to make sure its not a fluke , there is no black smoke and it revs past 4k now strong.
thank you Sideshow,Cribbj,Zuffen, Newmon1978, Spf lexus and everyone else who has helped out along the way you all are an incredible resource and great at what you do. Thank You all again for all your help and support over these last six and a half months
 
That wire is main power to idle motor and also to gbox
And to some solenoids
Also on late models that wire powers air flow meter
 
As usual a bad/non-running transplant problem is traced to a wiring fault.

Almost all engines were running well when they came out of the donor vehicle and this indicates either a sensor or wire have been broken/damaged in the swap, a sensor left unpluged or a wiring fault.

I've yet to find a bad/non-runner that wasn't a wiring problem where the engine ran before the transplant.

This is a great example for all engine swappers to take note of.

Learn by other's mistakes.
 
Glad to hear you found the problem finally and it wasn't something major.

As Sideshow said, that Red/Black wire comes straight off the EFI Main Relay and then goes to the EB2 connector, so it's the main power wire for most of the fuel/air system. Depending on where it was actually disconnected, you probably had multiple sensors/actuators that weren't working, which only confuses the problem when you're trying to diagnose.
 
Zuffen said:
As usual a bad/non-running transplant problem is traced to a wiring fault.

Almost all engines were running well when they came out of the donor vehicle and this indicates either a sensor or wire have been broken/damaged in the swap, a sensor left unpluged or a wiring fault.

I've yet to find a bad/non-runner that wasn't a wiring problem where the engine ran before the transplant.

This is a great example for all engine swappers to take note of.

Learn by other's mistakes.
Click to expand...

i agree i hope this thread helps future swappers avoid the problems that i ran into
 
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