beaten by a 1uz

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
It has a very high idle, and it increases as it warms up. To me, that's acting like an unmetered air leak, so it should be running lean, not rich.

I know you said it's pumping black smoke out the exhaust, but what do the plugs look like?

If you want to test for air leaks, get a squeeze pump spray bottle and fill it with water, and start spraying around where the intake manifold bolts together, and then where it bolts down to the heads, and also where the throttle body bolts onto the manifold. If the RPM's drop when you spray water somewhere, you've found an air leak.

Some people do this with engine starting fluid (ether), which makes the RPM's increase, but it's also a good way to get your eyebrows singed off......
 
Why don't u wire up the diagnostic plug that sits under ther drivers steering column
Area then plug a scanner in and try to decipher what live data means
Otherwise take it to an expert
Did everything u bought come out of same front cut
Or did u buy pieces separately.
Maybe u have wrong maf
Find the Maf wire at ecu. Think it's called ks
Check the voltage and compare it with factory specs
 
behind your crank pulley is a 12 tooth trigger gear its possible to turn it around and doing this will through your triggering out. also check both sensors on the front of your cams they give tdc readings. lastly check water temp sensor even if no error code remove the wire and supply it with 12v- the ecu will read that the car is hot.try first and let me know
 
listened to your car on you tube.Its starving for fuel.take a pliers and close your fuel return line while idle.your rev should drop slightly.try to rev.also do you have an intank fuel pump or do you have both,third check your ground on your fuel pump.may be getting false reading.your problem is actually very simple but has to be tackle in right way.
 
dont move around on your tps. That changes the values to ecu.you will need a multimeter and factory setting to set it back to norm.thats why the car's idle is so hi
 
ok wow this is a lot to check ill start with what i tackled today. i found and cleaned the grounds behind the passenger side head and the main lead from the engine block to where the negative battery terminal should be. and a few other random grounds under the fusebox.
the result of which was smoother cranking but now it wont stay running. it idles like in the video for a few seconds then stumbles a bit then falls flat on its face. It also doesnt want to turn over till i crank it 10 or 15 times
im making my list of things everyone is suggesting and ill check them report back in about an hour or so what i find
 
listened to your car on you tube.Its starving for fuel.take a pliers and close your fuel return line while idle.your rev should drop slightly.try to rev.also do you have an intank fuel pump or do you have both,third check your ground on your fuel pump.may be getting false reading.your problem is actually very simple but has to be tackle in right way.

its the in tank stock 7mge fuel pump
 
i put some more gas in the car lol
that may be why it seemed to be starving for fuel.
now it kicks back smoke rich enough to singe your eyes the smell of raw fuel is really bad now.
@newmon i pinched the fuel return and the idle did drop a tad but the smoke came even thicker. that gave even more fuel pressure i think.
also after i cut off the car i hear this slight pinging coming from the exhaust system, im thinking this is unburnt fuel getting lit off in the center cat (the only one im running)
 
Pull an injector off one at a time
See if it's one cylinder playing up
I have had a customer with shorted wiring
And injector staying on

Also is ecrything u bought a complete set
If not then this could cause issues

U really need the plug your ecu and airflow
And ignitors into a similar car all at once
To make sure what u got works
Then test the basics
 
how much fuel pressure are you seeing at the rail at idle and under load?
i went out and bought the fuel pressure tester from autozone im not exactly sure how to use it tho cause im not seeing a test valve for the fuel (does this motor even have one?)

Pull an injector off one at a time
See if it's one cylinder playing up
I have had a customer with shorted wiring
And injector staying on

Also is ecrything u bought a complete set
If not then this could cause issues

U really need the plug your ecu and airflow
And ignitors into a similar car all at once
To make sure what u got works
Then test the basics

ok ill pull them one at a time and see whats up and report back
yes everything i bought was a complete set out of a running car.
i wish someone was in the dc area and willing to let me try that but i dont know any sc400 owners in the area
 
if the smoke becomes thicker than your pressure is 100% no need to check that.standing in front of the engine behind your coil in between the cams youll find to temp sensors 1 single wire and 1 two wire.the 2 wire is for the ecu.take the 2 wire plug out and check which has ground.This is just to check if the sensor is receiving ground. if the ground is present take a small piece if wire and connect the two wires together.if the car then is cold it will take longer to start.This is just to see where the problem is laying.second i dont have a wiring diagram of your airflow meter cause that can be where your whole trouble is lying.if you find a diagram post it so i can give youspecs on what to check for resistance towards ecu even if you have changed the airflow meter.
 
false reading meaning that the ground wire aint connected directly and it is drawing ground through the body of the tank if it aint plastic tank,but you have pressure so not to worry
 
Try to get some better pics of the plugs too - plugs are a great diagnostic aid, but we need to see the color of the insulator for the center electrode, and see up inside the plug to see if it's wet/oily/carboned, etc.

This or even closer is the kind of detail that's needed, if it's possible to get it:

IMG_3600Large.jpg

IMG_1012Medium.jpg
 
if the smoke becomes thicker than your pressure is 100% no need to check that.standing in front of the engine behind your coil in between the cams youll find to temp sensors 1 single wire and 1 two wire.the 2 wire is for the ecu.take the 2 wire plug out and check which has ground.This is just to check if the sensor is receiving ground. if the ground is present take a small piece if wire and connect the two wires together.if the car then is cold it will take longer to start.This is just to see where the problem is laying.second i dont have a wiring diagram of your airflow meter cause that can be where your whole trouble is lying.if you find a diagram post it so i can give youspecs on what to check for resistance towards ecu even if you have changed the airflow meter.

ok the sensor is getting ground and i jumperd the connector but the engine was already warm so it didnt make a difference.
ill post up the diagram in a few min
 
Ok so I read the factory manual and it says that there are four major grounds off the engine
i found the one on the back of the passenger side cylinder head that bolts to the fire wall
i also found a few wires bolted to the drivers side cylinder head by the valve cover
im assuming that the one off the front of the block to the negative battery teminal is the third
does anyone know what the fourth is or if there are any others that im missing
im really thinking that this may be a grounding issue
also i found a small grounding strap that was not attached anywhere, its about 7in long anyone have any idea where that one goes?
 
just check diagram for airflow meter if you have the manual there shall be 1 wire going towards ecu.That would be for the signal telling ecu how much fuel to give,if you know for sure which wire it is let me know.
 


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