4 wheel drive rims

[Lambo]

Hi Guys, I have this bright idea to turn my project into 4wd using an Audi Quattro 016 gearbox see drivetrain section, the other question i have is that the front wheels i was going to use have zero offset,my 4wd daily car has a lot of offset the hub of the wheel is only a couple of inches in from the outside, will i have problems with the Zero offset Wheels in a 4wd setup, i have been told it is to do with the postion of the bearings and loadings etc, i notice the Original Soarer 16" wheels had a lot of offset, and as i have converted the Soarer hubs to 4wd hubs i wonder whether the Zero offset wheels would be usable. what Steering issues might i have.
Regards
Out of my Depth Lambo

 

[xirforever]

Im pretty sure with 0 offset compared to the 50 offset stock on the lexus cars would be nuts.... wheels would stick out REALLY far and it would just not be nice at all. Bump steer would be horrible. But thats only if i understood what your doing correctly. If you havent changed how far out the hubs are and are pretty much in the same position as the stock ones then it'll be a nightmear.... just go get some new wheels

Can someone confirm or correct me?

 

[steveo]

Lambo,

Your steering effort will be huge if you use the zero offset wheels. The bumpsteer, camber and castor will be the same if you are using the original subframe (or same suspension layout). This is refered to as the scrub radius, and has a major effect on steering feel/effort. If you use the zero offset wheels, the steering may be very unstable at speed. You want the center of the tire contact patch to be close to the point where the hub pivot intersects the ground. (if they are at the same point you would not have much steering feel on a straight pacth of road, if its far away the sttering gets very heavy)

The whole thing changes if you are going to build your own suspension links. (I'm in the middle of doing it now) It requires that you know the geometry of the suspension pickup points on the chassis and on the hub at the static ride height. Once you have these the chore of getting the camber, scrub radius and bump steer (not to mention damper/spring length) is rater complex. Your best bet is to copy the stock suspension design closely if you are going to do your own, or find some software that gives you all of the above information so that you can quiclky make changes to get what you want.

As I sais earlier, I am doing something similar right now. I have taken the hubs from an SC300 and I am making them work on an old Triumph that been widened and lengthened to fit the SC300 rear axle and the 1UZ up front. I wound up having to do a pushrod suspension on all 4 corners to get the suspension rates and movements that I wanted.

Good luck,
Steve

 

[Zuffen]

Stevo,

What sort of Triumph.

I have a mate just starting an 1UZ swap into a Stag.

 

[steveo]

Zuffen,

The car "WAS" a Spitfire. There is not much of the original bodywork left though. Had to widen it 14 inches to get the SC300 rear axle assembly under the body, and added 10 inches of length because the car was starting to look a little too square. The engine will be run by an EFI Technologies 2.1 Race ECU (got a good deal from some friends over there). I have modified the cam covers to take the coil on plug system from the 98-02 Lancruiser. And to finish it off I have a Richmond six speed and CRS bellhousing on tap. The clutch is a tilton 7.25 on a custom button flywheel behind the original flex plate.

The suspension work has been a very long term project, as I had to build the frame to fit around the engine and rear end. All four corners will have pushrod suspension and the design time on the corners still is not complete. Just finished building the rockers for the front and still have to finalize the damper/rocker locations for the rear.

The final front suspension design has zero bump-steer, and a pretty aggresive camber gain. The rear has a bit of toe-in in bump to keep the back end from coming around too quickly.