1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

[cebby]

Thanks Rod.

Onto the next installment...

I received a Tundra bellhousing, oil pump, output shaft, and tailhousing today. I have a Tundra torque converter coming next week. Between the parts I have with the exception of the input shaft, I have two complete but diffferent approaches to automatic options for this engine coupled to a gear driven case (or two )

Opt. 1 - 3rd Gen 4Runner A340F - modified by changing input shaft, oil pump, and bellhousing to items compatible with 1UZ (could be either LS400 trans parts or Tundra/Seq/LC trans parts). Transfer case pulled (wrong side drop) so gear drive case can be used (with Marlin adapter)

Opt. 2 - LS400 Trans A341E - modified by changing output shaft and tailhousing (I'm using Tundra trans parts, but A340F parts could be used also). Gear drive case can be used (with Marlin adapter)

If a crawler isn't wanted/needed, T100's came with A340F trannies and removable chain drive t-cases with the correct side drop for 2nd Gen 4Runners.

Here's the Tundra parts I got today:



I haven't bolted these parts up yet, but after looking at them closely, it appears that the Tundra parts are interchangable along with the other stuff I've compiled.

 

[cebby]

I did some work from 11-2 last night, but forgot to bring my camera so no progress pics. Here's the list...

- 3VZE ECU pulled and the harness pulled into the engine bay from the interior
- Removed the ADD solenoids and related vac hoses
- Removed the misc solenoids and vac hoses from the pass side fender
- Removed the coil and related wiring
- Unhooked the Alt wiring
- Unhooked various ground wires from the block

I need to pickup a large pan to drain some fluids before I can pull the rad, PS hoses, etc. I've never actually drained a cooling system before and not reused the coolant - what is the proper way to dispose of it?

Took some qualiity time looking at the rad and available space. The Tundra rad will not fit. In going to a wider rad, it will need to sit on top of the framerails. This limits my height to about 20" max (if I want my hood to close). My best guess is that a rad 19-20"h x 28"w is going to be the easiest to fit. The stock rad is roughly 22"w x 22"h (slips down betweeen the frame rails slightly and extends above the core support - fits the stock hood bulge in the center.

I have relatives arriving today and staying until Wed next week - probably not a whole lot happening between now and then. At least I'll have a hand for getting the trannies down to the shop...

 

[cebby]

I found through the search here that a LS400 radiator just might be the ticket.

Dims: 1.5"th x 16"h x 33"w

Anyone know how many rows these are? Does anyone make a thicker unit for the LS400?

OK, so how you ask? Here's the plan. With the relatively short height of the LS rad, I can remove the AC condensor from the core support and widen the opening. The rad will sit ABOVE the frame rails roughly where the condensor was and be the first thing to get air. I will mount the condensor behind the rad. Dual 16" electric pusher fans will go in front of everything and should fit behind an unmodified grille.

Not alot of room to work with:



Excuse the crude "sketch"

I'm thinking some sort of shroud for the pusher fans - not sure what yet. As far as fans, I'm thinking maybe this fan:



Permacool PRM-19115, 16" reversible. Moves 2950 CFM!! $110 ea.

The trans will use the rad for initial cooling and then go through an aux cooler (or two) to keep it nice and cool. Keep in mind, I'll have a dual ultimate crawler also...

 

[Zuffen]

All fans are more efficient (move more air) in a puller situation.

Put the condenser in front of the radiator and the fans behind it in a shroud.

You need to position fans carefully. Too far into the shroud and they don't work. too far out and the same happens.

About 1/3 of the fan blade should protrude behind the shroud.

 

[cebby]

A couple of folks have cautioned against putting the condensor behind the rad, so I'll need to rethink it. I was also warned against that sort of fan I posted as they have a tendency for the metal to fatigue where the blades are attached and they come flying off. OUCH!

So, I came across this fan:



Flex-a-lite FLX-398, $119 ea. 2500 CFM, 17a Comes with a shroud. I will use 2 of these side by side. It's 4" thick though...

I know very little about AC. Anyone know how far away I can relocate the AC condensor from the pump? I'm wondering if I can find a different size/shape condensor that would fit elsewhere. Has anyone heard of running two smaller condensors? (maybe flanking the radiator??) I don't think I have enough space for the engine, radiator, fans and AC condensor - unless maybe I find some thinner fans??

EDIT: I've found some others that are a little thinner, so this may work out afterall...

Regarding the AC, since the fan on the condensor only covers maybe a 3rd of it, could I get away without it and just use the condensor?

 

[cebby]

OK, here's a few more pics of the dismantling from the other night. I had an extra set of hands last night, so we took the trannies down to the shop.

 

[cebby]

I want to get the coolant and oil drained out of everything next. Here's some more shots of the core suppport/rad/AC condensor for reference as I breakout the sawsall!

 

[cebby]

Currently, the radator and electric fan extend 6" from the core support toward the engine:



Then the core support and AC fan take up another 4"

 

[Zuffen]

Room is one thing at a premium.

I'd be inclined to fit the engine and worry about the fan then.

Twin fans integrated into a shroud will increase the cooling over twin fans only drawing thru a small area of the radiator.

Why not search other 4b swaps or PM the guys who have done a simillar swaps and ask what fan /s they used.

 

[cebby]

FWIW, I looked at my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee today and found there is no separate fan on the AC condensor. The air in that one works just fine sitting and idling...

Good idea Rod on the PM's. The only downside could be that they got them from a salvage yard down under and I'd have a tough time duplicating here in the states... I also need to see which ones have retained or added AC.

I basically have 10" of depth to work with theoretically. That seems like alot of space actually - plus I'm not afraid to cut the core support some. Muhahahaha!!!!

I'll need to familiarize myself with the 4b swap. I don't know about this one...

 

[cebby]

I'll need to familiarize myself with the 4b swap. I don't know about this one...

Excuse my ignorance. Just figured out 4b means 4 by or 4x4. Duh...

 

[cebby]

I finally got back down to the shop after my weeklong+ hiatus (family in from out of town).

On the Runner, just a couple little things done. The big news is that I got the motor off the skid and up onto the engine stand. For this particular stand, the fingers add roughly 2 7/16 (approx 60mm) to the bolts + thread depth (approx 30mm). So, I got (4) bolts M12 x 1.25tp x 90mm long. No pics of me actually bolting the engine to the stand (too much cursing)

How about a good look at that engine...

 

[cebby]

 

[cebby]

 

[cebby]

Got a few things done tonight:

Removed:

Skid
Coolant, ATF and Engine Oil
Bumper and valence
Flex-a-lite fan
Radiator
AC Condensor/Evap./piping
Horns
Hood latch/support

After getting all this stuff out, it appears that I the LS400 rad I was thinking about using is too large. Back to the drawng board...

 

[cebby]

 

[Zuffen]

Send me the 'Vette in the background and I'll love you for life. If it has a crappy liitle engine I could always fit a 1UZ!

You're making progerss. Keep us posted. With your Marlin boxes and the 1UZ you can climb walls.

 

[cebby]

Send me the 'Vette in the background and I'll love you for life. If it has a crappy liitle engine I could always fit a 1UZ!

You're making progerss. Keep us posted. With your Marlin boxes and the 1UZ you can climb walls.

Hehe. The Vette has a weenie little big block 502 crate motor. It's only normally aspirated though...

 

[cebby]

For those that have pulled this motor before, can I pull the engine/trans/t-case as one unit, or do I need to unbolt the trans from the block? Those bolts up on top of the trans have got to be a beotch if its the latter...

 

[webbie]

If there are 2 of you, you could do it in one go. We did, but the 2nd person needs to lift the gearbox and juggle a bit. Could be a bit tricky on you own.

Good luck with the rest of the conversion.

Cheers.