What can we expect from a 2uzfe with 1uzfe rods/crank

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

RedPhoenix

New Member
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505
Location
Palm Harbor, FL
I have the opportunity to grab a 2uzfe (non vvti) for dirty cheap with 88k miles. Knowing their weakness of lower revs and weak rods, I planned on using a 1uzfe early rods and crankshaft.

What can I expect from this engine? I want to run upwards of 12-13psi on twin Holset HX35's (should be 450whp range on a 1uzfe).

Pros
More displacement (4.58L)
Better turbo spool
more power with less boost
oversquare still
heads are superior in stock form

Cons
Weight (85lbs more on top of the turbo stuff)
Tad bit more on the custom work...
Need to be converted to 4 bolt or 6 bolt mains


So looking at this basically... Would this route be better than a 1uz refreshed with similar parts (new bearings, HG, ARP studs all around)?

Matt
 
First thing is fitment. You may have a problem fitting a complete 2uz in the SC4 engine bay. I think David had tried that, but he had to combine 2uz block with 1uz heads due to fitment.

As I remember when I had a chance to compare between the 2uz and 1uz rods, the lengths of both are the same. Therefore, the stroke is the same. You can use the early 1uz rods with 2uz pistons. 12-13 psi of this combination can get you 450 rwhp and probably more than 525 rwtq, only if you run stock compression. Lower compression will decrease the power dramatically as in my setup. There's no need to convert the bolts. I'm running 15 psi consistently with no problem. I'd say go for it. It's a unique setup.

If you're looking to drift the car, then the heavy front end will be a big disadvantage.
 
Your going to need to use the 2uz crank and caps but its not like its any "weaker" than the 1uz crank. Lots of people speculate which is cast or forged but the bottom line is that many have produced high power setups with 2uz crank setup with ARP strengthened 2-bolt main. You can use the OEM 2uz pistons also with he 1uz heads but your going to be forced to run 8.8:1 to ensure no mechanical interference. 8.8 is perfect for boost if thats your plan. As for the 85lb of weight, you can negate some of this by deleting the A/C and components to lower it to around 40lb of weight gain. Even at 40lb heavier, your still even with a GTE weight. Also, keep in mind the iron block will make more hp/psi due to it's heat retention.


Its a shame I couldnt get my 4.7L wired the right way but I havent given up yet. Biggest problem for me is finding reliable wiring diagrams for the adaptronic and the early LS400.

I ended up spending around $3000 for the labor and parts but I used ARP bolts for everything, cometics, ACL race bearings and I had my machinist open up all my oil clearances as well.
 


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