1UZ into HT Ute

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
At the moment its running standard ecu with no tuning. It pinged a little at first but now after a little running seems ok. Starts to break traction in second arround 4500 rpm. By 3500 seems to be at full 5 psi boost. Runs a little hotter but nothing to worry about, Will put in a 165 deg thermostat. Really happy with results, will try for 8 psi in next wek or two.
Dont have pics of manifold yet but similar to Davids single set up. But instead of having the right side feeding into a large left hand manifold, have run a single two inch pipe from right side manifold right thru to turbo, have run it under bell housing and up on the top of left hand manifold. Blocked left hand manifold at the rear and merged the front of this manifold up into the bottom of the manifold.
 
hello kyran your ute looks good with that turbo on it went to drop in on sunday was in my ra60 celica with the 1uz.fe v8 in it was going to show you but looked like you had a few cars at your house next time im am out will drop in 19-11-05 day it was regards heartland005.
 
Hi Heartland,
We have a few extra cars of our own lately but I sold the ef this week so that will be one less. Would love to see your Celica and see how it turned out. How well does it go?? R U happy with the result? Drop in any time. I dont hang arround dickheads so if other people are here they are cool. Wont be home this weekend as going to Sheparton spring nats, yeaha. Taking a mates blue hr over to the burnout comp. hope nothing breaks. Kris
 
Your turbo setup has finally confirmed how I will set mine in my HZ, there seems to be a fair bit of room still even with all the piping!!!. Now I finally know that the setup will work, I can hook in and(try to) catch up!!! Anyone wanna swap a RH SSautochrome header for a LH one??!!!! :)
 
1uz-hz, Glad to hear some one else is going to have a go at this style of turbo system. I think that this set up is far from optimal but its a good starting point to see how these engines work under boost. Keep us informed on your progress.
 
Progress is a bit slow at the moment, bit hard to do stuff without money. But after chrissy the ball should start rolling, and if nothing goes wrong (wishful thinking I know) should be running my mid 2006.
 
Hi guys,
Had a strange thing happen to me while wiring up the new wolf ecu. I have converted the origional tranny to shift manually by using the trans select switch on the side of the tranny. So you select drive and it will take off in third ect ect. The problem I had was when i moved the shifter from gear to gear it would turn solinoid one and two on and off in the right combination but when i did this it activated the fuel pump thru the ecu, even though there was no conection from the trans to the ecu except for the +12 volts. I decided that the solinoid energising and then colapsing would create a back emf thru the +12 volts and this would affect the ecu to turn on the fuel pump for the programmed two seconds. I then got the + 12volts and touched it on solinoid 1 wire of the trans and when I disconected it it would then energise the fuel pump. I suppose this is the reason why some power relays have diodes accross them to reduce the back emf. Does any one know when a coil voltage is removed, dose it send a spike of voltage back toward the battery??? What would be the best way for me to stop this voltage spike, a diode going to ground from the wire going to solinoid 1 and 2??? any suggestions apreciated, Kris
 
Just went out and tried the doide going to ground from the wire going to solinoid 1 and 2. It works, no voltage spike??? without the doide I could feel a voltage shock on the 12 volt feed when I removed the power to the solinoids....
 
mmm interesting, cant say ive had that problem with my wolf 3d! I *think* maybe what is happening is the crank/cam trigger is picking up the electrical noise as a trigger pulse which causes the fuel pump to run for a few seconds as it thinks you are beginning to crank. Is the trigger cable well shielded?? Is the shield earthed at the ECU end only?? Try grounding the trigger wires and see if it still does it.

If you put a diode across the coil so the positive of the diode is to the negative/ground side of the coil it will suppress the back EMF spike. Use pretty decent sized diodes if you do. I have a tiptronic style setup that uses FETs to switch the solenoids, there is a diode across each FET to protect them but even without diodes (was testing out the durability!) never had a trigger problem.

The wolf is pretty sensitive to electrical noise on the triggers, some 22nF greencaps across each trigger at the ECU end can clean the signals up nicely ;)
 
Hi Maxpower,
My two triggers are shielded using the cable supplied with the ecu right to the sensors, using two seperate cables.The shield is only earthed at the ecu end.
Once I put the diode effectivly accross the solinoid it stoped the voltage spike and the pump does not come on when the different gears are selected. Problem sloverd.
Having a little trouble getting the ecu to send spark and fuel signals. When I change the settings using the hand controller to tell it that I am using single pulse it then sends ignition and fuel pulses. Sound like a software stetting not quite right. Im getting both trig 1 and trig 2 pulses. I might get onto an cro to check my trigger sine wave as I suspect trig 2 could be wired backwards.
Will try the 22nf caps too, thanks, kris
 
Well I finnally got my cleaned and balanced 7mgte injectors in. Only took 2 hour from start to finish Luckily I didnt need to change any wiring as I have banked injection where two injectors fire at the same time. The impedence of the two injectors in parrell was between 1.8 - 1.5 ohms. My wolf ECU will drive down to 1.2 ohms. After I modified my existing fuel and ignition maps I took it for a drive while looking at the AFR and used my injector overall trim setting and got it fairly good. I dialed in a little more boost, 10 psi, and it now feels really good. When I nail it in second gear and when the boost to comes on it breaks traction (locked diff and 235 50 16 tyres) with ease at arround 3500 rpm. Getting to 100 km/h seems very quick. Will get it dynoed soon and then hit the quarter mile. Cheers kris
 
wolf and ems ecus do have problems sometimes with crank singals

they recomend on some enignes to fit resistors to each crank and cam signal

which i think is a **** idea

it should be internally done in the ecu

i guess thats y i dont like doin many of theses ecus or if i get asked the wire them up i add more on the price
 
Yeah, the wolf 3d is not known for its crank, cam pick up. This was my first wire up of an aftermarket ecu and I was advised by other learnerd members that have wired up wolf ecu's to take particular attention in the shielding of the pickups ect and even now its still not 100% as it gets occasional errors but mainly when starting. Their install manualls are not the best in my opinion either, But I think once its all sorted they are not a bad ecu.
 
Was going in two weeks time but posponed to early november. Installed the accumulator shims in the trans( thanks Elliot). Fitted 8mm shim in 1-2 and 8mm in 2-3 accumulator and a 1.8mm shim in the line pressure. Seems to quicken up the shifts but its hard to tell as I cant do a full throttle shift from 1-2 or from 2-3 as it breaks tracktion and could end up facing the opposite way I am driving. I need some semi slicks to get more grip. I really need to put it on the dyno to check air fuel ratio b4 I go out dragging. Money is hindering progress. hoping for low 13's????
 
Some updated pics

Hi all. Just some updates. Used My gteck meter today and registerd a 13.66 @109mph. Had a fair ammount of wheel spin so really needs some slicks before going down the quarter.
 
Its like the engine was meant to be in that car. I can't believe how nice everything looks in there. Yes the slicks are a must and then the only thing left is building the suspension to improve your launches. Looking good!
 
Tacho wiring issues

Hi all,
Im trying to wire up my origional ht monaro tacho to a stand alone aftermarket (wolf) ecu. It doesnt want to work and im wordering if my tacho is stuffed or if the signal output by the ecu is not compatable with the old tacho. According to the maker of the ecu the tacho output is a square wave 12volt signal from the ecu. Any ideas on how I can test my tacho. Ive tried dragging the brown wire (that used to go to the neg side of the coil)accross a metal file that was connected to 12 volts and also tried connecting it to ground but the tacho needle does not move. Ive verified that it has 12 volts to the back of the tacho. Any Ideas. Is there a conversion box ect that would make it work. Thanks kris....
 
connect the holden tacho wire to the neg side of 1 coil

this should make tacho work but only just

cause its reading 2 cylinders

if tyhis works then to get proper signal from wolf to work the holden tacho u either need tacho booster or get tacho modofied to suit the weak signal from wolf

another thign is u need to program wolf to make one of the auxillaries to be tacho output
 
Thanks sideshow,
I had a speco external tacho connected to the wolf and it worked ok, Im just trying to have it all looking factory without the boy racer look of the 5" tacho and shift light. So this means the output from the wolf works but just not strong enough to run the old tacho. Might have to look at getting it modified!!! Thanks again.
 


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