installing cams

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dar_sbb

Member
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94
Location
Melbourne, Australia
if installing cams (for eg the lextreme stage II), what other supporting mods would be needed... like oversized valves, springs port and polish?

would an aftermarket ecu be needed?

thanks
daz
 
A new intake is probably the first order of business... The stock lower half as been found to be a big airflow limiter... I dont recall if Justin had dyno'ed his car with the lower section that he made, but I do know that he said that you could really tell a differance in the top end and this if I recall was on stock heads (I could be wrong though)...

Adding cams is going to increase top end flow (obviously) but if the intake is chocking that flow, then you dont stand to gain much..

As for the other things like oversized valves, springs, port and polish, yes, you would stand to benifit from doing those mods but thats not to say that they have to be done.

As for the aftermarket ECU, if you want the most performance from your mods, then yes you want a programmable EMS. Remember, the Toyota tuned the ECU for best economy and best drivability and not so much maximum power. You could run with the stock ECU, but more performance and power would be gained with a better tune that you could get with a decent programmable EMS.
 
There is going to be some CNC heads available soon..
A set of GOOD heads have been cut up to check where material is etc..
Keep in touch..

Be aware that shim over bucket can have issues. Depending on cam specs and rpm.. Ground cams require thicker shims ..
A better set of valve springs is required ..
 
There is going to be some CNC heads available soon..
A set of GOOD heads have been cut up to check where material is etc..
Keep in touch..

You can't drop a tidy little bit like that without more info!

Come on, what's the buzz?
 
I am about to drop my stage 2 regrinds in and wanted to know if valve springs are really needed. I don't plan to raise my redline, might be nice to squeeze a psi or 2 out of my centri by doing this but no need right now.

I know our 84lb springs aren't all that stiff... but if hp is all we're raising should i be concerned?
 
You'll probably be fine with the stock springs as long as they dont coil bind with the cams and your not raising the redline. The ramp profile of the cam can cause minor float problems but still usually this is only a problem with raised redline. I have only seen two cases (neither or which were UZ's) that the ramp was so steep that it cause minor float at stock redline.

I will leave you with this though, if you can affort better springs, then go ahead and get them and swap them with the cams that way, should the need be there later on, then they are already there and done. No need to tare it all apart again to change springs.

Oh BTW, if you do chance the springs, then it'll probably be a good idea to go ahead and change out valve stem seals while your in there.
 
You can't drop a tidy little bit like that without more info!

Come on, what's the buzz?

A good std set of heads have been cut up to check where they can be ported.. After porting another set of heads and flow testing them the a 5 angle CNC is going to produce some heads..
With various levels of power goals, std valves, shim over, shimless etc etc..
Stay tuned...
 


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