Could you please post up the larger pics as when i click on them they appear smaller. also did you put a lager valve in and just have it re cut to get the big valve 1uz figures then port that same valve setup to get the the big valve ported figures?
Project Thread Supercharged Supra
- Thread starter cribbj
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
John I am sorry to see the delays and many challenges you have had, but am glad to see you are moving through the issues. You're so right that no matter what we plan on these projects, things go wrong....Too bad so many of them are due to poor quality workmanship from others....
I am looking forward to this summer when I can hear and see your project completed, HOPEFULLY
Ryan
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I linked to them on PhotoBucket, instead of attaching them to the thread. They should be more readable now.
Note: heads do not have "Big Valves" after all.....
Note: heads do not have "Big Valves" after all.....
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scotturnot
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Wow John! That is some nice improvement on the Heads! Looks like there is hope for the 1uz heads.
4000GT
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Just as a comparison, my mate tickled my heads up with the stock valves, flowed 160 and 260.
stevechumo
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Imagining I have those heads on my turbocharged 1UZ. Just so lovely!
4000GT
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Yeah makes me wonder how much of a restriction they are. We decompressed the heads at the same time in the chamber, so there were more gains to be had there.
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Hylomar Sealant
Just wanted to throw a plug in for my favorite sealant, Hylomar. This stuff combines all the good points of silicone and conventional sealants, without any of the negatives. It goes on very easy, stays "tacky", seals very well and best of all, it's easy to cleanup or remove, unlike silicone. You can take acetone, lacquer thinner, MEK, carbon tet, or your carcinogen of choice, on a rag and just wipe the surface clean. Try that with your next oil pan that was sealed with silicone.
Rolls Royce developed the stuff years ago for their industrial gas turbines, so it's used in pretty severe duty.
It used to be very difficult to find in the US, and only the German bike or car shops carried it, but I notice that it's sold now by Permatex, so any Autozone, Pep Boys, or Advance Auto Parts ought to have it.
I went to seal something this morning and my last tube was empty, then panic hit, thinking 1) where was I going to get some more, and 2) maybe I'd have to use silicone (arrggghhhh), so I did a search and found the stuff 15 minutes away at an Advance Auto Parts.
Two thumbs up for this stuff.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ng_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm
Just wanted to throw a plug in for my favorite sealant, Hylomar. This stuff combines all the good points of silicone and conventional sealants, without any of the negatives. It goes on very easy, stays "tacky", seals very well and best of all, it's easy to cleanup or remove, unlike silicone. You can take acetone, lacquer thinner, MEK, carbon tet, or your carcinogen of choice, on a rag and just wipe the surface clean. Try that with your next oil pan that was sealed with silicone.
Rolls Royce developed the stuff years ago for their industrial gas turbines, so it's used in pretty severe duty.
It used to be very difficult to find in the US, and only the German bike or car shops carried it, but I notice that it's sold now by Permatex, so any Autozone, Pep Boys, or Advance Auto Parts ought to have it.
I went to seal something this morning and my last tube was empty, then panic hit, thinking 1) where was I going to get some more, and 2) maybe I'd have to use silicone (arrggghhhh), so I did a search and found the stuff 15 minutes away at an Advance Auto Parts.
Two thumbs up for this stuff.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ng_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm
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I had loads of photos in this thread, but after the forum software crashed in July, then was restored, then upgraded, all the embedded photos in all the threads (not just mine) were lost. Major bummer, 'cause the photographic information we all had/have on here was much more valuable than the text. We're all thankful that the posts were recovered and restored, but I hope our Webmaster can get the photos back too.
Anyway, the car is a '97 Toyota Supra hardtop in the RSP color. It was originally a GE model with 5spd, but back in '03/’04 it underwent a full GTE conversion with all new parts, except for the motor, which was a "built" single turbo 2JZ-GTE that my builder & I had put together. That was installed with an AEM standalone, and I've been running that setup since ‘04.
In 2004/05 I began planning a 1UZ swap for the car because I wasn't happy with the loss of low end torque and driveability that the car suffered by going single, and with a lightweight clutch/flywheel. I decided I wanted the 1UZ to be supercharged, as I have owned turbo Supras since 1989, and wanted to try something different.
Fastforward to 2009, and we've built & rebuilt two different 1UZ motors now, 3-4 times, and have been on the engine dyno with one of them 3 times, and have another dyno session for the 2nd motor coming up as soon as we can get it ready. Eventually one of these motors may make it into the car if I ever get tired of fooling with them on the engine dyno.
So here are some pics of the car, its current 2JZ setup, and of the 1UZ we've built and dynoed:
This was taken last spring, just after the wheel & tire upgrades. The wheels are HRE 541’s and are 10” in front and 11” in the rear. Tires are Yoko Advans and are 285/30 in front, and 315/30 in the rear:
The engine after building; it's not really a "monster" motor, and only has a little T61 with a 0.69 A/R sitting on a cast manifold. Inside, it has HKS cams, JE's, lots of slippery coatings, etc.
Here are the prelube fittings I added to the oil pump. I'm a big believer in prelube systems, and making sure the engine has oil pressure before it's started. This car sits for 4-6 weeks at times between starts, so it always gets a good prelubing before I crank it up:
And in the car:
I’ll post up some pics of the UZ motors in the next message, as we’re apparently limited to five images per post now.
Anyway, the car is a '97 Toyota Supra hardtop in the RSP color. It was originally a GE model with 5spd, but back in '03/’04 it underwent a full GTE conversion with all new parts, except for the motor, which was a "built" single turbo 2JZ-GTE that my builder & I had put together. That was installed with an AEM standalone, and I've been running that setup since ‘04.
In 2004/05 I began planning a 1UZ swap for the car because I wasn't happy with the loss of low end torque and driveability that the car suffered by going single, and with a lightweight clutch/flywheel. I decided I wanted the 1UZ to be supercharged, as I have owned turbo Supras since 1989, and wanted to try something different.
Fastforward to 2009, and we've built & rebuilt two different 1UZ motors now, 3-4 times, and have been on the engine dyno with one of them 3 times, and have another dyno session for the 2nd motor coming up as soon as we can get it ready. Eventually one of these motors may make it into the car if I ever get tired of fooling with them on the engine dyno.
So here are some pics of the car, its current 2JZ setup, and of the 1UZ we've built and dynoed:
This was taken last spring, just after the wheel & tire upgrades. The wheels are HRE 541’s and are 10” in front and 11” in the rear. Tires are Yoko Advans and are 285/30 in front, and 315/30 in the rear:
The engine after building; it's not really a "monster" motor, and only has a little T61 with a 0.69 A/R sitting on a cast manifold. Inside, it has HKS cams, JE's, lots of slippery coatings, etc.
Here are the prelube fittings I added to the oil pump. I'm a big believer in prelube systems, and making sure the engine has oil pressure before it's started. This car sits for 4-6 weeks at times between starts, so it always gets a good prelubing before I crank it up:
And in the car:
I’ll post up some pics of the UZ motors in the next message, as we’re apparently limited to five images per post now.
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So here we have the first 1UZ motor, built & ready for breaking in on the engine dyno. I mounted a little Holley carb and a Ford EDIS standalone ignition on it to keep things as simple as possible. Didn’t want anything going wrong and causing the rings to not seat (this happened to my 2JZ motor).
And on the dyno:
Next we put the Autorotor twinscrew on it; ran it up to around 18-20 psi on pump gas and lifted both heads from detonation:
Tore it down and discovered we had 10.5:1 pistons in it; not the 9:1’s the first builder “said” he put in. Shame, shame. I shouldn’t have let this guy in Austin, TX build the motor; I should’ve stayed with Dennis.
Dennis completely rebuilt the motor, put ½” ARP studs in it, new coated bearings, new Lextreme forged rods, and Stage 1 reground cams, and milled the pistons down to get 9:1. We also changed over to a hybrid shimless/shim under bucket valve train setup, and we went back on the dyno but could only get 498 HP out of it on C14/C16 and methanol injection. Lots of cool methanol afterburning in the exhaust, though! Hmmmm, tore it down again, and discovered the exhaust cams had been reground 11 degrees off at each cam (22 crank degrees) No wonder we were blowing the exhaust off each time we ran:
Around about this time, I picked up a partially finished project motor at a good price, and Dennis went through it to correct some problems, and improve a few things (1/2” ARP studs again, etc.) and we’re currently getting this thing ready for breakin with the carb & EDIS ignition again.
And on the dyno:
Next we put the Autorotor twinscrew on it; ran it up to around 18-20 psi on pump gas and lifted both heads from detonation:
Tore it down and discovered we had 10.5:1 pistons in it; not the 9:1’s the first builder “said” he put in. Shame, shame. I shouldn’t have let this guy in Austin, TX build the motor; I should’ve stayed with Dennis.
Dennis completely rebuilt the motor, put ½” ARP studs in it, new coated bearings, new Lextreme forged rods, and Stage 1 reground cams, and milled the pistons down to get 9:1. We also changed over to a hybrid shimless/shim under bucket valve train setup, and we went back on the dyno but could only get 498 HP out of it on C14/C16 and methanol injection. Lots of cool methanol afterburning in the exhaust, though! Hmmmm, tore it down again, and discovered the exhaust cams had been reground 11 degrees off at each cam (22 crank degrees) No wonder we were blowing the exhaust off each time we ran:
Around about this time, I picked up a partially finished project motor at a good price, and Dennis went through it to correct some problems, and improve a few things (1/2” ARP studs again, etc.) and we’re currently getting this thing ready for breakin with the carb & EDIS ignition again.
JustenGT8
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Fingers crossed this time John
Better hurry or my new forged motor will be ready 1st and may lay down some challenging hp for you
Better hurry or my new forged motor will be ready 1st and may lay down some challenging hp for you
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Hope you have better luck Justen. This motor has been full of surprises and delays , but then what project isn't.
The latest little surprise is that we discovered the motor did not have oversize valves in it, after all! This was apparently a miscommunication between the motor's seller, his builder, and me when I bought the motor, but Dennis & I only just discovered it when I asked him to measure their face diameters. I was curious why my intake port flows were right there with Erol's race head, but the exhaust ports were nowhere near.
Erol told me his head had 36mm intakes (2.5mm oversize) and 33mm exhausts (5.0mm oversize), so it's no wonder his exhaust ports were flowing significantly better. Apparently, one of the important keys to getting the 1UZ to breathe well lies in the exhaust side.....
I have corrected all my previous posts in this thread and have removed all references to the big valve heads. I also redid the head flow curves, and their titles and reposted those.
So, two steps backward, regroup, and charge forward again......
, but then what project isn't.The latest little surprise is that we discovered the motor did not have oversize valves in it, after all! This was apparently a miscommunication between the motor's seller, his builder, and me when I bought the motor, but Dennis & I only just discovered it when I asked him to measure their face diameters. I was curious why my intake port flows were right there with Erol's race head, but the exhaust ports were nowhere near.
Erol told me his head had 36mm intakes (2.5mm oversize) and 33mm exhausts (5.0mm oversize), so it's no wonder his exhaust ports were flowing significantly better. Apparently, one of the important keys to getting the 1UZ to breathe well lies in the exhaust side.....
I have corrected all my previous posts in this thread and have removed all references to the big valve heads. I also redid the head flow curves, and their titles and reposted those.
So, two steps backward, regroup, and charge forward again......
stevechumo
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Any specified time for the engine to go live on the car, John? I really want to see some more boosted 1UZ on the roads. I let David drive my car today to turn his instint back on.
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Steve, we'll get it broken in on the dyno this week or when I get back in December from my next tour in the desert. Then Dennis has to build the Gilmer drive for the SC, and the long tube dyno headers, and I have to finish up the fuel system, wiring and dress out stuff. We'll dyno once again with the "finished" configuration, and hopefully not break it, then it'll be ready to go in the car in the summer?
Notice I didn't say summer of which year......
Notice I didn't say summer of which year......
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John,
I know the feeling on delays.
I've been waiting almost 3 months for a part to be fabbed for the intercooler.
Without it I can't do any work as everything I have to do revolves around the cooler.
I hope your's runs sooner than mine as I think mines next year, or the year after.
I know the feeling on delays.
I've been waiting almost 3 months for a part to be fabbed for the intercooler.
Without it I can't do any work as everything I have to do revolves around the cooler.
I hope your's runs sooner than mine as I think mines next year, or the year after.
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Rod, sounds like you're up to something interesting with that aftercooler.
Why didn't Andrew just try to install a Laminova in the existing manifold, instead of going external? I'm sure there are probably obvious reasons, but I'm still working on my first cup of coffee.
Why didn't Andrew just try to install a Laminova in the existing manifold, instead of going external? I'm sure there are probably obvious reasons, but I'm still working on my first cup of coffee.
SC400TT
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This motor has been full of surprises and delays
So, two steps backward, regroup, and charge forward again......
John I am sorry to see the delays and many challenges you have had, but am glad to see you are moving through the issues. You're so right that no matter what we plan on these projects, things go wrong....Too bad so many of them are due to poor quality workmanship from others....
I am looking forward to this summer when I can hear and see your project completed, HOPEFULLY
Ryan
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John,
The Laminova is too long to fit and there isn't a lot of space in there either.
He could have fitted one of his small "heater" readiators in there but again it wouldn't improve airflow.
By going external it should improve air distribution.
Interestingly I lifted the head at #1 cylinder which is where most of the air went so it was running lean.
Keep at it.
The Laminova is too long to fit and there isn't a lot of space in there either.
He could have fitted one of his small "heater" readiators in there but again it wouldn't improve airflow.
By going external it should improve air distribution.
Interestingly I lifted the head at #1 cylinder which is where most of the air went so it was running lean.
Keep at it.
JBrady
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Got my fingers crossed for you on this build. Let me know when you plan to dyno.
Like other projects where people decide to change so many things in an attempt to make the "perfect" engine there is so many variables that a successful attempt has more than a touch of good "luck" involved.
Erol tested his intake and headers on an otherwise bone stock Tokyo taxi 1uzfe with surprising power and rev range. Justen bolted turbos to a stocker and made WAY more power than anyone predicted and did it with surprising reliability.
I would really like to see your supercharger setup on a stock longblock.
Like other projects where people decide to change so many things in an attempt to make the "perfect" engine there is so many variables that a successful attempt has more than a touch of good "luck" involved.
Erol tested his intake and headers on an otherwise bone stock Tokyo taxi 1uzfe with surprising power and rev range. Justen bolted turbos to a stocker and made WAY more power than anyone predicted and did it with surprising reliability.
I would really like to see your supercharger setup on a stock longblock.
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