Project Thread Supercharged Supra

[scotturnot]

A dual battery setup is good, but I read somewhere that connecting both batteries together without having another device to keep it balance isn't good. They'll drain the charge. I forgot what they call for that device.

A battery isolator, you can get a cheap one from people that sell motorhome/RV stuff or a exspensive one from car stereo supply shops. The other theory is to get 2 matched batterys and they will work, this is what we used to do with our car stereo systems and never had a problem. It was important to buy 2 new matched batterys for this to work.

 

[4000GT]

Looks very clean Andrew - is that the lefthand cavity in the boot where the foam is/was? Are those dual Odyssey batteries? Which ones are they, if you don't mind sharing?

Yes correct thats the cavity behind the rear seat. I think sometimes they have subs in there?

They are Vertex batteries. http://batterydirect.co.nz/Race cars.htm

 

[cribbj]

Andrew did you keep the cable routing in the cabin and go through the firewall, or did you pop a hole there in the sub cavity and route them externally?

I think I'll try to fit a pair of Odyssey 925's on the right side of that sub cavity, along with a new, fabricated sub box on the left. After looking at the Braille's, they didn't fit that space as well as the Odyssey 925.

I also want to keep the spare, and would rather not muck around with a custom box to replace the foam stuff on the left & right.

 

[cribbj]

Couple of pics of my new fuel rail & injectors, compared to a semi-stock fuel rail & my old Mazda 460cc injectors.

I needed some space in the galley between the head and the supercharger manifold, so I went with a fabricated fuel rail of 1/2" stainless steel tubing and shorty type 650cc Siemens injectors. This will reduce the installed height of the fuel system by over an inch.

The effective ID of the SS tubing is between -6 and -8 AN, so these rails will comfortably handle any HP this 1UZ will put out. I chose stainless for its looks, its pressure handling capability, and its machinability. Plus it's nearly impervious to anything I might want to put through it in the future, such as E85 or straight alky.

The injector fittings on the tubing are blocks of SS billet that were cut & machined for a close fit, then TiG'd to the stainless tubing.

 

[UZZ-TT]

Nice. Looks great!

 

[SC400TT]

John, that new rail set up is a beaut! Even though I was not faced with the exact same challenges in my set up as you, it is obvious there is not a lot of room aailable above the rails and injector set up for either the intake in your case, or the stock TB in mine. I love the SS you chose, and the way you had the solid blocks of billet welded are very nice. And you say I'm going all the way!! I wonder which one of us is more "OCD" ? jk

Ryan

 

[cribbj]

Cheers guys; I hope it works as well as it looks! I really needed that extra space in there to make my milspec wiring system work, and this seemed to be the only way of doing it.

You know the original design of something is pretty good when you try to change one thing, and that one little change has a knock on effect that necessitates changing two or three other things.

Now that I have my new supercharger top and rear plates (I had a thicker spacer plate made for the rear of the SC, so I could finally get the inlet ell off without having to disassemble everything, as the ell was trapped by the rotor bearing housings. The thicker rear plate caused the charger to be moved forward about 3/8", which then necessitated fabricating a new top plate!), I'll probably get the SC set down again on the Richwood manifold, and possibly get the ally raceways spotted and mounted, but I've run out of time to do much more as I'm heading for the big sandbox on Saturday. Gotta save some fun for next time ;-)

 

[Red Supra]

I think I'll try to fit a pair of Odyssey 925's

That's a lot of battery.. A single 680 has no problems starting a 1uz, the reserve capacity isn't great with just one.

 

[cribbj]

Max I ran a 680 in my black Supra for several years, and as you say, there just isn't much reserve with that battery. I don't think it had enough to reserve to spin the 2JZ much more than 10 seconds total, but thankfully it never needed more than one crank to fire.

When I put the AEM in the blue car, and found that it didn't fire the engine as fast as the OEM ECU, well, I decided I'd never scrimp on battery reserve. Hopefully, with a pair of 925's, reserve won't be an issue :eek5:

 

[cribbj]

Made some progress on my wiring system, fuel rails and other miscellaneous stuff. I bolted it all together on my #1 motor tonite, and woohoo, everything actually fits!

The sharp eyed folks will notice that I made some modifications to the valve covers to close up the spark plug wells, so the COP plates would seal well and be fairly water tight. I also relocated the breather ports to the rear of the valve covers, and made them -8 AN males. It may not look like much, but a whole lotta time and planning went into this. (And lots of ally got sacrificed to the scrap pile god.)

I would have preferred to leave the COP connectors facing vertically, however the #1 COP connector was fouling the oil filler port on the left side, and the #6 COP connector was fouling the TB on the right side. So they all got turned 45 degrees.

From the way everything went together, I think the OEM fuel rail might actually fit now, with some slight modifications, but I think I'll probably stay with the SS tubing rail, and the shorty injectors, just because I like the way they look ;-).

I leave for the big sandbox tomorrow, but next time I'm home, I'll be punching the conduits for the milspec connectors, and building the braided SS leads for the sensors.

Also received some good news on the #2 V8. Nearly a year and a half after receiving it, Dennis expects to finally have it ready next time I'm home. Since it's a brand new, tight motor, I'll have to fab up a Holley carb system again, and the Ford EDIS8 ignition for a naturally aspirated breakin on the engine dyno, as we did my first motor.

The porting work that was done is really gorgeous. Dennis' head porter is really an artisan, and he admitted that he's happier with my porting than the ones he's been doing on Lambo heads.

 

[Cobber]

Top work as per normal, well done John.

 

[SC400TT]

Nice job on those COP plates John. How are you planning to cover up the cam gears? Interested to see how water tight the seals are.

as always, your attention to detail borders OCD....:shysmile:

Ryan

 

[cribbj]

Thanks Andy & Ryan. The COP plates probably won't withstand a direct hit from a high pressure car wash wand, but should be fine for any water coming in the engine bay while driving through rain, etc.

I have the undersides of the COP plates lined with industrial foam weatherstripping and the coils are sitting on sealing washers.

I suppose if I o-ringed the plates I could get a better seal, but that's a bit OTT even for me :laughing:

 

[scotturnot]

Nice John, I like the way things are looking. Looks like I better get those parts made soon.

 

[cribbj]

Yeah, things have been slow on the V8 for awhile, but it looks like it's finally coming alive again ;-)

 

[JBrady]

Also received some good news on the #2 V8. Nearly a year and a half after receiving it, Dennis expects to finally have it ready next time I'm home. Since it's a brand new, tight motor, I'll have to fab up a Holley carb system again, and the Ford EDIS8 ignition for a naturally aspirated breakin on the engine dyno, as we did my first motor.

The porting work that was done is really gorgeous. Dennis' head porter is really an artisan, and he admitted that he's happier with my porting than the ones he's been doing on Lambo heads.

What? No pictures? What were the porting goals?

Let me know when you expect to dyno again.

 

[cribbj]

Sorry John, I went over to Dennis' without the camera (always a mistake), but the porting that Josh did really looks nice. The goals on this head were maximum power consistent with a street car. No flow numbers yet, but Josh will get the heads on the flow bench before they go on the block.

We're tentatively going to dyno it in NA trim in late October if Dennis can get it finished. I'll be sure to let you know exactly when.

 

[stevechumo]

I almost forgot about this project is still going on. Cheers! :beerchug:

 

[cribbj]

Starter Electrical Data

Was fooling around in the garage this morning and had the 1UZ's starter dismounted, so I decided to measure its current draw.

Again, this a 1UZ starter dismounted from the engine & unloaded....

Motor Peak draw: 273 amperes
Motor Steady draw: 133 amperes

Solenoid Peak draw: 18.5 amperes
Steady draw: 11 amperes

I used a Fluke multimeter, set to grab peak readings and hold them, along with a Fluke DC current clamp.

I did this mainly to see what the solenoid pulled, because I'm going to locate a "pilot" relay nearby. So to be safe, I think I'll use at least a 50a Bosch relay to pilot the starter solenoid......

 

[cribbj]

Flows on Ported Heads

Dennis just flowed the heads this afternoon, and I added the curves to my previous graphs. Both sets of ports showed very good improvement, and the intake side is now producing numbers comparable to RMS' race heads, however the exhaust side is not close. The exhaust side is flowing about what a ported 2JZ head will flow, which still isn't too shabby.

For reference:

2JZ-I was my 2JZ-GTE head's intake before porting, 2JZ-IP is the same head with a street port

1UZ-I is from "The Flea's" stock, unported head, #2 1UZ-IP is from my ported head

RMS 1UZ-IP is Erol Richardson Motorsports' race head




Same references as above for the exhaust ports