Sc400 into 84' toyota pickup

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Mr.Chubbles

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Chattanooga,TN
I'm getting ready to swap a 1uzfe into my 4x4 truck. The engine will be coming out of a 93' Lexus sc400 and going into an 84' Toyota pickup. The truck currently has a 22re and W56 transmission, solid front axle, high steer, and a 4 1/2 inch leaf spring lift. This will be the most extensive mechanical work I have ever done even though everyone says it's an easy swap.

I plan on using the bellhousing off of the Lexus in combination with my W56 trans. I've heard lots of people saying this transmission will be fine, and lots of people saying it won't. Would love to hear from some people who run this set-up and how it works. I've heard that I can mount the Lexus fuel pump into my tank and use the pickups stock sending unit. I've also heard the trucks stock pump will be fine. I've also heard I should just go ahead and upgrade the pump to an aftermarket. Any thoughts? I was originally going to try to cut/beat the sc400 radiator into the truck, but I recently heard that the trucks stock radiator will be fine to handle the V8. Thoughts? I will be modifying the sc400 headers by cutting off the 3bolt flange and replacing with a 2bolt so it clears the frame rails. Will I need to do an EGR delete or is that just personal preference? I'm also a bit hesitant on the wiring. I havnt found any straight forward diagrams that specifically explain what to do. I've spent countless hours reading threads and write-ups and all of them are typically vague or speaking as though I should be an expert in engine wiring to understand. Can anyone point me in the direction of some good diagrams that show what is necessary to get the engine running well? I'm trying to do this swap as easily and cheaply as possible. Any help from you guys is much appreciated.
 
How old is your stock fuel pump? How healthy is it?

If it's in good order it will run the 1uz fine. There's an easy test. Remove the return line and put into a measured container. Start the engine and measure 30 seconds of flow. You need at least one litre which works out at 120litres per hour. If you don't have at least that then I would upgrade. The stock holder is easy to work with.

Two bolt exhaust flanges are easiest way to go.

I prefer to upgrade box to R series as they are way stronger. I've replaced too many W boxes now. Some last fine but plenty don't. A manufacturer wouldn't fit parts with a large percentage of failure rate. I have been checking the R boxes and fitting a few upgraded bits as they are old and I don't want to do jobs twice.

I've wired heaps and now sell simple diagrams with simple instructions I'm helpful but also run a business so not all my info is free.

If you are offloading hard I'd go for a bigger radiator. If normal driving then ive used the stock one plenty. I'd guess I've done a couple of hundred with stock rad. There are plenty of other options out there too.

The internet has a habit of confusing some simple jobs because of too much info and some of its wrong.
 
How old is your stock fuel pump? How healthy is it?

If it's in good order it will run the 1uz fine. There's an easy test. Remove the return line and put into a measured container. Start the engine and measure 30 seconds of flow. You need at least one litre which works out at 120litres per hour. If you don't have at least that then I would upgrade. The stock holder is easy to work with.

Two bolt exhaust flanges are easiest way to go.

I prefer to upgrade box to R series as they are way stronger. I've replaced too many W boxes now. Some last fine but plenty don't. A manufacturer wouldn't fit parts with a large percentage of failure rate. I have been checking the R boxes and fitting a few upgraded bits as they are old and I don't want to do jobs twice.

I've wired heaps and now sell simple diagrams with simple instructions I'm helpful but also run a business so not all my info is free.

If you are offloading hard I'd go for a bigger radiator. If normal driving then ive used the stock one plenty. I'd guess I've done a couple of hundred with stock rad. There are plenty of other options out there too.

The internet has a habit of confusing some simple jobs because of too much info and some of its wrong.
Thanks for the response. Id be happy to pay a reasonable amount for good info that will help this job go down with the least headach. Do you have a link to your business where I can purchase the diagrams? Could I speak to you over the phone?

Have you ever mounted the sc400 radiator into the pickup? Or any info on how difficult? I'm assuming I'll need to cut out the crossmember and do a bit of hammering on the body. Then fab radiator mounts, hood latch, and new crossmember. I'd rather have something reliable for any situation if it's not incredibly difficult. If it is difficult then I will run the trucks radiator and plan on swapping in an aftermarket down the road.

The person I bought the truck off of did a lot of part swaps to this truck from other 'yotas so I'm not completely sure if the fuel pump is the original or off a later year. I'll give your test a try and see what's up. If it looks bad do you recommend a particular aftermarket pump? I've heard they aren't too expensive.

I plan on rebuilding the transmission before I link it to the new engine. I can't afford the $1,200-1,600 to purchase a r150f. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will hold up. I typically like to wheel with more finesse than the "pedal to the floor" method so I think it will work ok for me. Should I give the transmission any particular break-in measures since it will be newly built and taking on new power?

I'm also not incredibly familiar with the 1uzfe. The engine seems to be running well with 190,000 miles on it. Are there any tune-ups or maintenance you would suggest I do while the engine is out and easy to work on? I was planning on replacing the spark plugs. And maybe the belt.

What about the EGR delete. One person I talked to seemed to make it sound like it was something I would need to do, but what I've read makes it sound kinda optional. I'm in Tennessee so because of the year of my truck they only smog test with a sensor in the tail pipe. I'd be willing to do the delete if it's pretty simple/economical and will get the engine running better/more efficient.

Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic. I just have a logical mind and a good ability to tackle projects that seem over my head...
 
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Hi mate
Just wondering how it all went and is going?
Did you do the 100k service before you put it in?
And new belts ,starter and alternator ?.
And what box did you use?
I’ve got this engine in my 89 Hilux 2wd with the stock diesel 5 speed
and it absolutely flies!! But now brought a Toyota 4Runner with the
1uz-fe and the 1uz-fe Auto gearbox and I’m really disappointed with the
Auto don’t get me wrong the box is smooth and dose what it was made
for but it’s certainly in no way a performance box it zaps a lot of power
Away from the engine sadly! It feels like my 5 speed has twice the power
of my auto box.
Cheers
 
Had to put things on hold for a bit because of finances. But Ive had some time to get quite a bit of the swap figured out. I picked up an r151f transmission with dual transfer cases. I have a flat belly crossmember and plan on stuffing the drivetrain up into the cab a bit to clear the frame rails for a skid plate. I have removed the 22re from the truck. I have all of the fluids drained and plumbing/wiring disconnected from the sc400 ready to pull the engine. Wondering what all I should keep in the engine bay from the original truck? Im obviously going to be swapping the ignitors from the car, and making a new fuse box. But what about things like charcoal filter....? Should I just clean everything out of the truck and plan on swapping everything over from the lexus, or should i use a bunch of the trucks stuff for the swap? I also plan on doing some general maintenance on the engine once I have it out of the car. What all is best? I was thinking new timing belt, spark plugs, maybe the starter?

As for mounting the trans, I plan on buying a bellhousing and a flywheel from northwesttoys.com. I was just going to order a 2100lb clutch for a 3.0 engine and use a throwout bearing from a 3.4. Anyone have experience with this?

Ive also heard I may have issues with the oil filter clearance. does anyone have any experience with this particular swap? would be nice to hear from someone who has been down this same path.
 
I might have done it once or twice. Haha. I have info on my youtube channel. More going up all the time CartuneNZ. I'm about to do some external videos on early motors. Cheers
 
How did you do the wiring? I would pay for a step by step/guide on how to get the engine running on a 2wd. I currently have the motor siting in a 2wd with a transmission in place I just need help with what relays and which wire to splice to get this running.
 
T
I do wiring of 1uz for a living. I do 3-4 each week. I have instructions for sale. Although i suspect you have already emailed me. Cheers Kelvin.
I had to put things on hold yet again... But I am officially set to wrap up this swap.

I have watched a number of your youtube videos which have been very helpful. Though because you cover so much material over so many models, I still have a lot of questions specific to my vehicles and applications. If I could get some information from you covering these matters I would be willing to pay.
 
As of now I have ordered my bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel as well as materials to build my motor mounts.

I feel that first step I would like to do is clean up and prep everything on the truck for the motor to go in. I have pictures to post but im having difficulty getting them on here. Id like to know what all I should leave on the truck, what should be removed. Should I go ahead and prep certain things like the fuel lines, heat wrap lines, or battery mount while there is no motor in the car? Should I go ahead and build and mount my fuse/relay box? Is there an easy way to replace my trucks fuse box? It looks like there was a small fire in a fuse at somepoint and id just like to get everything looking clean.

The next step will be doing any prep work I need on the transmission such as replacing shaft seals. I bought them from a person who said they ran fine but I havent been able to verify. Is there a way to check the condition before I mount everything together? Id also like for my 4x4 light and my speedometer to work. Im not sure what wiring I will need to do on the trans and transfer to make this happen.

Once my truck and the trans and transfer are prepped I will finally remove the engine from the SC400. As of now the only thing connected on it are the motor mounts. Once its pulled I plan to do the timing belt and replace spark plugs. I may replace the starter and do the rear main seal as well if it is necessary. Any tips on what all should be prepped besides that? Oil pump? Other seals/gaskets? Any wiring/lines I can go ahead and remove for cleanliness? What all goes into the 100k maintenance? Will it make my swap go easier to go ahead and do the egr delete? I saw a video from gloverman showing that certain holes can be blocked off from the coolant system, but im still a bit hazy on exactly how and which ones. The video covers a lot of info very quickly and I want to make sure Im taking the right steps for my specific engine. Do I have to weld the holes or is there another way to plug them?
 
I have the same truck and I am well underway with my swap. Feel free to ask questions and we can help each other out.
 
I have the same truck and I am well underway with my swap. Feel free to ask questions and we can help each other out.
I’ve got my engine mounted. I did all the seals, gaskets, water pump, timing belt, etc while the engine was out. I have it mounted to an R151f with dual transfer cases and I flat bellied it up into the truck. Now I’m going to start connecting everything. What radiator did you end up using?
 


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