Help with turbocharging my SC400 1UZ-FE

[mickesanda]

Battery relocation

I relocated the battery today and turned the fuse box 90 degrees CW. As promised i took a lot of pictures:
6 meters of 60mm2 copper wire

This where the cable goes into the boot

You need to find a suitable place for this component, make sure its not wired to the ground

This is the part you won't be using anymore

The cable goes under the backseat on the drivers side

and up besides the the fuel ECU

2 screws hold the plastic bottom of the fuse box.

A spacer was needed

Use the old screws that held the plastic cap

Sideview - i'll manufacture a new bottom later to keep moisture out

The old tray came to use. Find a place with thick sheet metal and drill a hole for the ground.

I had a plastic box for marine use, but it was so big that i ditched it in favor of the old tray

I'll manufacture some nice cover later on.

Hope you liked the pictorial and that it will be of some help
/Mike

 

[BlackUZZ31]

get a gel cell battery ASAP, using a wet battery in the boot will cause major rust issues when it vents into the sealed boot environment

 

[mickesanda]

get a gel cell battery ASAP, using a wet battery in the boot will cause major rust issues when it vents into the sealed boot environment

This one is completely sealed IIRC, but i'll doublecheck.
thx

 

[mickesanda]

A few questions

A few stupid questions. Although i read several build threads there are still a few things i don't understand:
1. Do i need this fan bracket if i'm going to run 2 electrical fans and delete the stock hydraulic fan?

2. What kind of hose does one use for the loop of the hydraulic oil?
3. Where do these hoses go?

4. What do people use for idler pulleys? Any part number? It would be very helpful with a picture.
5. Is the stock intake pipe restrictive? Why do ppl replace it? I was thinking of keeping the black plastic intake pipe with the black resonator box underneath and replace the accordion hose that connects the MAF.
6. Any thoughts on AEM failsafe gauge (wideband + bost display + failsafe trigger)? 300 US$ on ebay.

I hope my questions were not too stupid, i really appreciate any input. Next step for me is hydraulic fan delete and i'm kinda stuck without answers to above questions.
Thank you in advance,
/Mike

 

[stevechumo]

1. Do i need this fan bracket if i'm going to run 2 electrical fans and delete the stock hydraulic fan?
2. What kind of hose does one use for the loop of the hydraulic oil?
3. Where do these hoses go?
4. What do people use for idler pulleys? Any part number? It would be very helpful with a picture.
5. Is the stock intake pipe restrictive? Why do ppl replace it? I was thinking of keeping the black plastic intake pipe with the black resonator box underneath and replace the accordion hose that connects the MAF.
6. Any thoughts on AEM failsafe gauge (wideband + bost display + failsafe trigger)? 300 US$ on ebay.

No questions are stupid. Only people's actions are stupid when they go against common sense. Lol.

1) You need that bracket for the drive belt to be routed since you remove the hydraulic fan pump.
2) You can use any hi-pressure braided hose. Anything that can handle more than 250 psi will be fine for any plumbing. I use 300 psi hose for the steering hose and it's holding up real fine.
3) Can't recognize it. I need to see a picture with more stuffs around it.
4) You should use OEM idler pulley. If the bearing is bad, you can press it out and press in with aftermarket bearing. Ebay has some aftermarket bearings. I use them and they're fine so far.
5) So far I see that you can only the last stock pipe that connects to the intake, but not the box. It should be fine, but you should build the complete intake. The reason is the supercharger will compress air and it'll force the air into the air control valve through the large opening on the stock pipe.
6) You just need wideband and boost gauge. The supercharger with a pulley won't overboost like a turbo, so the boost will stay the same all the time. Only turbo can overboost if the wastegate fails. I boost 15 psi with my turbo and don't even have that fail safe gauge. Once the car is tuned right, it'll be ok.

 

[mickesanda]

Hi Steve and thank you for replying.
3. I found out the answer for no 3 myself, these hoses go to the hydraulic fan cooler.
1. I bought that bracket from Lextreme, i am waiting for a matching pulley.
5. I was thinking to keep this one

replace this one with a good silicone hose

and continue with the MAF and the rest of the IC piping
I ordered the AEM wideband with Boost display because i don't want the gauge mounted to be visible(i was thinking cupholder in the center console). If i were to use 2 gauges then it would come to a pilar gauge holder. Don't want to alert the MOT-ppl
/Mike

 

[mickesanda]

A question and a little update:
I am preparing for a fan delete, unfortunately i cannot complete it this weekend, 'cause i'm still missing the pulley for my LS400 fan bracket, i've been given some good advice from KC and Steve C.
I'd really appreciate some pictures showing what to delete and what is to be rerouted, stuff like fan oil cooler. I decided to change the timing belt at the same time, a new belt is otw.
I'll upgrade some suspension details in the rear:

I went ahead and bought a bypass valve instead of the BOV i had since my turbo dayz after reading a few old posts from spf_lexus and Nemesis.

I bought this one from a local shop for 20 $, but i kinda regret it now after finding a similar bpv on ebay, with an adjustable knob:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161011058439?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

/Mike

 

[mickesanda]

Rear suspension

Today i changed toe arms and traction bars on the rear suspension. It was one of the worst jobs ever. The rust in the inner metal sleeve had welded the bolts and it was impossible to unscrew them no matter what i tried. I started gently and politely with WD40 and wrenches, then hammers, later with fire, nothing helped.
I cut the toe arms with a grinder and burned the rubber bushing, still no luck. In the end i took a pneumatic hammer and after a while i managed to get the bolts out. I cleaned them and painted them and they were as good as new.
I still have the bushings in the lower front arms to change, so i'll wait with the wheel alignment till then.

Next time i won't be so cheap and buy new bolts from Toyota Center before i do such a job.

 

[stevechumo]

Those arms from Megan, right? They don't look like they have rubber in them, so they may make the ride bouncy.

 

[mickesanda]

Those arms from Megan, right? They don't look like they have rubber in them, so they may make the ride bouncy.

Hi Steve, they are GodSpeed, but they look similar to Megan. The ride is almost the same as before, maybe it is worse for any back seat riders Who cares about them?
They are definitely better than the ones i had
I'll try and change the LCA bushings this week, tomorrow and Wednesday are bank holidays in Sweden, maybe i can convince my friend to come and help me.
I ordered this one the other day, i hope it will make a difference. I'm planning(for now) on keeping stock mufflers, stock resonators, add new OBX headers, delete middle resonator and Y-Pipe and replace them with an X-Pipe:

After reading all 32 pages of posts in the sticky exhaust thread and listening to all exhaust videos, it seems that ppl who deleted resonators have the drone problem, so they stay.
/Mike

 

[spf_lexus]

Just a heads up, that magnaflow x pipe is a very cheap design. Not horrible but it leaves a lot to be desired. The design to emulate is the burns stainless X. Burns is over priced but their design is the best of the best. The magnaflow will cause a low end torque loss whereas the burns will maintain or improve torque. There are several articles under the exhaust section discussing how effecient the stock front Y pipe is and how hard it is to improve upon.

 

[XR8tt]

X pipe is of no advantage on turbo engines . The exhaust pulses are not the same after turbine !!
Yep on SC engines its fine..

 

[stevechumo]

For turbo, the best is to go 1 exhaust for each bank. And if it's 1-2 divider, then a split Y (looks opposite to the letter Y) is the way to go.

 

[JustenGT8]

For turbo, the best is to go 1 exhaust for each bank. And if it's 1-2 divider, then a split Y (looks opposite to the letter Y) is the way to go.

says who? for turbo, no exhaust is obviously best. everything beyond that is a compromise and many ways to skin that cat effectively depending on what you want.

For me, getting the twin system into a big single has worked best and gives a far better exhaust note as well.

Seeing this guy is running a centrifugal SC he should be building/sizing his exhaust as if he has a large capacity n/a

 

[mickesanda]

Front lower arms - bushings replacement

A little update,- I replaced the bushings in my front lower arms yesterday. Some of the old bushings were already replaced with polyurethane bushings which made the ride uncomfortable and were squeaking pretty badly(like a 1956 Cadillac) and the rest of the bushings were worn-out OEM rubber ones.
Here are some of the pictures:

 

[mickesanda]

Need a little help with wheel alignment

Since i've been replacing lots of suspension details i need to do a 4-wheel alignment.

I am trying to track down the specifications for a 4 wheel alignment. Does anyone have these specs?
SC300/SC400 cars were never sold in Sweden and the computer that does the alignment does not have the specs.
I found these specs but i am missing all the other data:

Wheelbase 2690mm / 105.9inches
Track/tread (front) 1521mm / 59.9inches
Track/tread (rear) 1524mm / 60 inches
Length 4854mm / 191.1inches
Width 1790mm / 70.5inches
Height 1336 mm / 52.6 inches
length:wheelbase ratio 1.8

Thank you in advance
/Mike

 

[BlackUZZ31]

if you run supra ride hight you could try the supra specs....

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/lance_alignment/index.html

 

[mickesanda]

if you run supra ride hight you could try the supra specs....

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/lance_alignment/index.html

Thx for the tip, i'll try that, Toyota Supra should be in the list of cars in the computer.
/Mike

 

[stevechumo]

says who? for turbo, no exhaust is obviously best. everything beyond that is a compromise and many ways to skin that cat effectively depending on what you want.

For me, getting the twin system into a big single has worked best and gives a far better exhaust note as well.

Seeing this guy is running a centrifugal SC he should be building/sizing his exhaust as if he has a large capacity n/a

You cracked me up, Justin. Lol. I meant it for the daily driver, not all out track car.

 

[mickesanda]

You cracked me up, Justin. Lol. I meant it for the daily driver, not all out track car.

Hi guys,
I bought a pair of OBX-headers (i'let you know about the quality after install) + a FMX225 FLOWMONSTER 2.25" X-Pipe.
The plan is to replace the headers, weld 2 triangular shaped CAT-flanges to flex-pipes, keep stock CATS, replace Y-pipe and middle resonator with the X-pipe and keep the remaining 2 resonators and mufflers.
I do not know if it's the best setup, but it will be cheap and i hope that replacing the restrictive OEM-headers and adding the X-pipe will make a difference.
atm i am trying to find a welder who can weld stainless steel (for the wideband bung). I was hoping that i would be able to replace stock O2 sensor on passengers side and simulate narrowband into the ECU, but it seems that AEM has stopped including this function in their gauges.

If my plan is flawed i'll gladly listen to any advice.
/Mike