Twin turbo UZ ST185

[cribbj]

Justen, you ought to start a new build thread if you're going SC with this. That is, unless this lil puppy will still have the TT's, in addition to that M122?

BTW, I've come up with a great air flow balancing scheme for these SC manifolds. You're gonna love it - it's the mad professor at his finest (or worst). I want to wait until I get back home to get some measurements before I bare all, however.

 

[JustenGT8]

This is just a slight diversion for a little while John before TT comes back better than before This stocky wouldn't handle the boost adding the turbos would produce...well not for long anyways

Can't wait to see what marvel of a contraption you have come up with now

 

[JustenGT8]

just a query on the SC dual port bypass actuator. Without solenoid control on the vac lines i can't see the point of the bottom port?

In my custom application i was juts going to plumb the top port into the plenum? On cruise, decel etc when the throttle is shut the plenum will be in vac and will open the valve....as soon as you get atm or positive pressure the valve should shut and give good positive boost response?

I know a few of you run the twin port valve....does this sound OK and a better way to plumb both ports?

 

[cribbj]

Justen, if you want to use the dual port actuator in a boost control scenario, as well as the classic recycle scenario, you're right, solenoid control is necessary.

The top port (above the diaphragm) pulls against the diaphragm and spring, and the actuator retracts and opens the recycle valve only under vac conditions.

The bottom port (under the diaphragm) pushes against the diaphragm and spring, the actuator retracts, and opens the recycle valve only under boost.

Obviously you have to do some isolation so you don't have the ports connected to the same signal at the same time. If you have equal pressure on each side of the diaphragm, nothing will happen.

The AEM boost control solenoid is a classic, normally closed, 3 way solenoid valve, where under deenergised conditions, the inlet port is blocked, and the outlet port is connected to the vent port. When it becomes energised, the inlet is now connected to the outlet, and the vent port is blocked.

Quite awhile ago, when I started looking for dual port actuators, I looked at 3 different control strategies under 4 different operating conditions and chose the strategy in the diagram below, however I have not tested it yet. It's only partially failsafe, in that it allows for a failure of SV2, however if SV1 fails, then under boost, the bypass valve will stay closed, which will allow maximum boost. So there still needs to be some safeguards, like rev & overboost limiters in the ECU that cut fuel & ignition.

Hopefully we'll get this tested on the next dyno session. Until then, if anyone wants to give it a go, be my guest. And if someone can come up with a better strategy, let's see it:

 

[JustenGT8]

Looks good to me John. I shouldn't need boost control...well, in the sense that i'll just run what the pulley gives me. Should that be a bit extreme then i might have to look into some solenoid help to bleed a bit off....my Eboost or even the Autronic can handle that if needed and i have a few valves in the shed that will do the job i think.

First off though i'll just run the top vac port only.

Good progress has been made and engine ready to slot back in this week some time. Just sorting a new TPS and then the exhaust to tackle. Fingers crossed no more little hiccups that seem to take a disproportionate amount of time

 

[cribbj]

As you say, a simple solenoid valve connected directly to the manifold would be the simplest way to bleed off & control an overboost situation.

The dual port actuator and bypas valve is more elegant, but frankly I don't know how smooth the control will be.

 

[JustenGT8]

Some progress. Had to replace a leaky rear main seal...it was barely weeping but no doubt would have spewed oil once a bit of boosted blow by hit the sump

Nearly had a stuff up with the spigot. i was just about to install the 6201 when i did a double check on the Tremec and it wouldn't fit 6201 is for the W series boxes...one 6002 later and i was saved

I'm hoping to get the engine back in this weekend and finish tacking up the new exhaust sections.

As a distraction, i had 15.5 cu/m of 32mpa concrete poured yesterday for my new shed...exciting

 

[JustenGT8]

Progress warrenting some pics. My back can testify that there are more fun things to try than slotting a Tremec TKO600 spline into twin clutch plates with 50kg of box hanging off the end. A lot of cursing, realigning and jiggling later in 'snicked' into place and that was the sweetest sound i've heard in a while

The new clutch.












Has anyone got the more common triple plate setup? I'm after the clutch cover height from the flywheel to the surface of the mounting bolts....mine is 36mm but i can't recall what the triple plate measures? It will help me set up the slave cyl actuator rod.

BTW, the M8 high tensile bolts were lock tighted into the flywheel and torqued to 35 ftlbs....a bit higher than a factory clutch cover but anything less felt a bit loose? Comments?

 

[cribbj]

Looks really nice & clean Justen. Whose bellhousing did you say that was?

35 ft-lbs seems in the ballpark for M8. I didn't have a table "at hand" that went down that far, but the M10 table that I had went from 46 to 55 depending on tensile strength, lubrication, etc.

The Tilton triple is popular with the big HP Supra guys, but I don't know anyone who has theirs down ATM and could get you a height measurement. Tilton ought to be able to get you that info - their site used to have a wealth of engineering information, until people started copying their designs...... Give them a ring though.

 

[JustenGT8]

You can just make out the CRS cast into the BH John I have used them and Dellow...neither blew me away with the quality but they both had good alignment and were fine functionally.

Hmm the M10 for the FW are torqued up as per toyota spec to 72 ftlbs....they took that fine. loctite on thread and a bit of lube under the cap head.

I'll look at the tilton site again

 

[cribbj]

Did you run a concentricity test? Quite an interesting procedure that. If you need a copy, I've got one around here somewhere.....

Here's the ARP table with the M10 torques. I figured you were probably using 180 ksi fasteners. I think the 220 ksi table is for their L19 fasteners

 

[JustenGT8]

There you go with that engineer speak again

I just used M10 12.9 high tensile cap heads. I would have used ARP FW fastners but time is against me and we have an excellent fastner supplier locally.

I did the same with the last setup, but bolts rather than cap heads, so figured this was OK.

 

[JustenGT8]

It lives Haven't driven it yet as some final tweaks to do but idles nice and sounds tough as

 

[JustenGT8]

Video of the fire up...it's dark cause it's night

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv1blGPq_oM

 

[cribbj]

I'd say you definitely need a set of Gilmers next

 

[St165]

Info...

Justen,

Could you give me some information on some of the fabrications you had to do on the transmission tunnel? If anything needed to be cut. Also how hard was it to run the wiring harness and sensors? I have been doing a lot of research, and this seems like the best bet for the power I want to make. I was also thinking about doing a ford 302 supercharged. I am not sure yet. What about your driveline what needed to be modified with that? If anything? Thanks for the info ahead of time.

 

[JustenGT8]

Justen,

Could you give me some information on some of the fabrications you had to do on the transmission tunnel? If anything needed to be cut. Also how hard was it to run the wiring harness and sensors? I have been doing a lot of research, and this seems like the best bet for the power I want to make. I was also thinking about doing a ford 302 supercharged. I am not sure yet. What about your driveline what needed to be modified with that? If anything? Thanks for the info ahead of time.

No offense mate but they are strange questions to be asking,, are you sure you're up to this level of conversion?

I spent 3 days cutting out firewall, floor etc and obviously quite a bit longer putting new fabricated stuff back. Drivetrain mods are substantial.

Wiring can be relatively simple, depends how you want to go about it?

 

[St165]

No offense mate but they are strange questions to be asking,, are you sure you're up to this level of conversion?

I spent 3 days cutting out firewall, floor etc and obviously quite a bit longer putting new fabricated stuff back. Drivetrain mods are substantial.

Wiring can be relatively simple, depends how you want to go about it?

I am capable and have the resources to do the swap. Honestly from just looking at your pictures it just looks like you didn't have to do modifications to the firewall its very clean. I knew it had to be to good to be true. But I figured I would ask someone that has already done the swap. But I am planning on going with the 302 motor in my car, it is just easier to find where I am located. Also much more cost efficient to modify. I will keep you updated on the swap. One more question, what are you using for a rear differential?

 

[JustenGT8]

the biggest issue you will find is moving the steering rack as the stock one will run right through where the gearbox will go. custom front sway bar required as well.

i run a JZA70 diff stuffed into a highly modded stock rear cradle...largest i could get to fit.

Good luck. It's doable, but having done it i can say there are easier ways to go fast

 

[JustenGT8]

Time for some updates i guess.

The car made a guest appearance at the Shannons Insurance booth at Australia's largest modded car show down in Canberra...Summernats. It drew a bit of attention apparently which was cool given the old skool V8 focus of the event.

The M122 set up has gone to a new home in the UK....might hear how it goes over there with luck.

I finally gave up on the VVTi heads and bought a 2UZ with a dead exhaust valve to poach those heads instead. I'll get the cams reground to a more agressive spec and at this stage i also need a custom inlet manifold...maybe a Bullet one again? Hopefully this means i'll see some decent progress on the 'built' motor and have a high comp ratio TT UZ grunting again soon