Article By: Eric Crossman
Tools and Equipment
Brake clean (AT LEAST 2 cans)
17mm wrench or socket
14mm wrench or socket
11mm box wrench (in addition, an 11mm crescent wrench is also
10mm box wrench
10mm crescent wrench
1/2” Drive Ratchet (3/8” drive suggested)
Power cutoff wheel (or metal sheers)
Safety glasses and work gloves for the metal cutting process
Torque wrenches capable of 10-85 lb-ft settings
Small drip tray or several rags
Small funnel or suitable means of filling master cylinder
Brake bleed bottle
1 pair of jack stands or other means of supporting vehicle
Plastic or non-marring mallet
|DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid. Check manufacturer’s recommendation for
compatibility. (I recommend valvoline synthetic)
Raise and support Vehicle
A level, stable and clean surface,
suitable for supporting the vehicle on jack-stands, should be
used for the installation.
Apply the parking brake, then break
loose the lug nuts on both front wheels before jacking up the
car. Warning: Never leave any vehicle supported with only
a jack. Always use jack-stands.
Refer to the owner’s manual to
identify the correct location of the jack for raising the
vehicle. Jack up the vehicle, and secure it on a pair of jack
stands, again referring to the owner’s manual for jack location
To make it easier to access the
brake line fittings, turn the steering either toward or away
from the side that you’re working on, depending on the
orientation of the caliper.
Remove brake line
brake fluid will damage most painted surfaces, and should be
cleaned off immediately. Take care to ensure that the cap is
securely installed on the master cylinder. If it is loose or
removed, it is likely that more fluid will drip during brake
Loosen the hard line fitting, using
a 10mm wrench (have a drip catching pan and rags to protect the
control arms, and spray any left over off)
Remove the brake line retaining
clip, using a pair of pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver.
Remove the hard line fitting, and
place one of the rubber caps over the end of the hard line, to
control fluid loss during the installation.
Remove stock caliper and rotor
Remove the two stock caliper bolts,
using a 17mm wrench or socket. (bolts may be VERY tight, so make
sure you have a good grip on the bolt to prevent stripping)
Remove the caliper with the stock
brake line attached. There may be some leakage from the open end
of the brake line, especially if the pads/pistons on the caliper
Remove the stock rotor, by pulling
it off of the hub by hand. (Rotor may need to be banged off with
Step 5: Remove Dust
4 10mm bolts attach the dust cover
to the hub assembly (2 on top and 2 on bottom)
Once the retaining screws have been
removed, rotate the dust shield on the hub, so that the caliper
clearance cutaway portion is accessible. Cut the mounting
flange at either end of the cutaway portion of the dust shield,
using a power cutoff wheel. Remove the cut portion of the
mounting flange, and slide the dust shield off of the hub. The
dust shield does not need to be retained.
I used a pair of metal sheers. Get
a good grip on the thinnest point (the spot where the cutter is)
and twist hard, it should break and you can continue twisting
until enough is out of the way to remove the dust cover.
install supra rotors, calipers and pads
Place the rotors on the hub. Use the 2
17mm bolts to secure the supra TT caliper onto the mounting
points and torque to 55 ft lbs Do not touch pad surface, clean
rotors and pads with brake clean before installation (clean
rotors after to remove oils from hands).
Make sure you install the pads so they are
facing the rotor surface (yes people install them backwards)
for more diagrams and tech info
SS Line Install
Install the caliper end of the
stainless steel brake line by first placing a copper crush
washer on either side of the banjo fitting, then inserting the
banjo bolt into the caliper.
Insert the stainless steel brake
line fitting through the chassis bracket, then reinstall the
brake line retaining clip, ensuring that the prongs on the clip
seat firmly into the grooves on the brake line fitting.
Use a mallet to gently tap the
retaining clip into place.
The brake line should form an
S-curve as shown.
Remove the rubber cap from the
chassis hard line, and screw the hard line fitting into the
brake line fitting by hand for a few turns, to ensure that it is
Tighten the hard line fitting,
using a 10mm wrench.
After securing the brake line, turn
the wheels lock-to-lock, to ensure that the brake line is not
binding in any way, nor interfering with any suspension
component, including the CV boot and axle/drive shaft.
Step 8: Bleed brakes
Complete the installation on both
sides of the vehicle before bleeding the system.
Warning: Double-check that the
stainless steel brake lines you’ve just installed are not
binding in any way, nor interfering with any suspension
component, including the CV boot and the axle/drive shaft.
Adjust each line, if necessary, by loosening the banjo bolt, and
realigning the brake line, or by loosening the inboard end of
the line, and slightly re-clocking the fitting.
Note: The calipers and lines will
need to fill with fluid, quickly draining the master cylinder
reservoir. Keep a close watch on the fluid level when initially
bleeding the system. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir
to run dry, and to draw in air. Doing so may result in the brake
system needing to be serviced by a certified brake technician.
Bleed the brake system, using an
11mm box wrench, to loosen the bleed screws. The sequence for
bleeding the brakes should be: (easier done with 2nd
person to loosen and tighten bolt)
1. Loosen right caliper bleed
screw, press pedal all the way down, while pedal is down
retighten, repeat until you do not see bubbles in the bleed line
2. Loosen left caliper bleed screw,
press pedal all the way down, while pedal is down retighten,
repeat until you do not see bubbles in the bleed line
After initially bleeding the
system, gently tap the caliper body with a mallet to dislodge
any small air bubbles, then re-bleed the brakes.
After bleeding, apply constant
pressure to the brake pedal, and check all connections –
including bleed screws, and both ends of the brake line - for
leaks. Make sure the pedal feel is good and consistent.
Warning: Brake fluid will damage
most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake fluid
from any painted surface, including the caliper. Though caliper
paint is designed to resist harsh chemicals, prolonged exposure
will damage the finish (just try not to get any on the calipers)
Step 9: Reinstall
It is very important to check the
wheel-to-caliper clearance before installing wheels!
Reinstall the wheels, and torque
the lug nuts to 80 ft. lbs. It may be necessary to snug the
bolts before lowering the vehicle, and to then torque the wheels
when the car is on the ground.
Carefully test-drive the vehicle in
a safe area, at low speed, to ensure that all components are
Rotor and Pad
Note: Bedding-in of pads should not
be done in poor weather conditions, nor on wet roads.
After completing the installation,
make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of
each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop.
Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH cycle of
stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to
approximately 60, then begin braking. As you approach 5-10 MPH,
it is not necessary to watch the speedometer.
Keep your eyes on the road, and
approximate your speed at the end of each stop.
DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP,
WHILE LEAVING YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, AS YOU MAY IMPRINT
PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.
After the final stop of each cycle,
drive as much as possible without using the brakes, to cool off
the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to
ambient temperature before using them again.
PLEASE BE SAFE AND DO THIS ON A
HIGHWAY LATE AT NIGHT OR IN A LOW TRAFFIC AREA WITH FEW STOP
LIGHTS, DON’T BE STUPID.