Procharger Supercharger

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Getting the mechanical parts in is only one portion. I really think the centrifugal is the easily system to get it running. Even Shawn got it running and change out the belt, the car runs like stock again. Stevechumo should able to help you. He is running a 12:1 FMU in his single turbo 1uzfe and having some great success. I think you have 3.80" pulley right?
 

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Obviously the Procharger work on the LS400. I am still doing something slight different and intergrate jackshaft to move the second port of the bracket about 2-3" further back. Since there are few things extra like the jackshaft, bolts and spacers along with two additional pulleys. The price wil be alot higher then the current Fish. Secondly, I am not sure if this will work on the SC400 or not until it is tested. I need to make sure the SC400 has enough space for this configuration. Here is an example of a Nissan 350Z with Procharger in recess style. However, I will not be using Cog pulleys. Just standard pulleys.

David
 
Lex, pulley size is 3.60'' I did some research and am pretty sure its 6lb but dont know for sure since they advertise these sizes for cars that probobly have a diff size crank pulley.


-Also, the bracket you made for the LS is usable but in a perfect world I would have the procharger unit moved upward another 1/4'' -1/2'' for clearance reasons. Mine was banging the A/C lines at idle. I just finished bending them out of the way and tying them away from the battery floor, more work but very do-able still.

Lex- hey I tried contacting steve but no replies yet, if I get this honda 12:1 fmu, will I be screwed since it has no adjust ability?? I didn't know if 12:1 is enough by itself or would the gain/onset adjustments be needed fpr more fine tuning?
 
Lex do you know how close the inlet is to the radiator? I have an aftermarket Supra TT radiator thats a little larger than stock. Would a mushroom filter fit?
 
no mushroom wont fit unless the jackshaft idea is used. I have 2'' MAX from inlet to radiator. Just plan on taking the element out of my HKS filter and t-bolt just that to the inlet over a metal screen. How thick is the supra TT rad?
 
yeah if you ended up with the same bracket as mine then a screen w/ element t-bolted would be around an inch. David whats up w/ the jackshaft idea? how hard is it to convert to this? I figure a traditional intake would be an instant benefit.
 
Lex, pulley size is 3.60'' I did some research and am pretty sure its 6lb but dont know for sure since they advertise these sizes for cars that probobly have a diff size crank pulley.


-Also, the bracket you made for the LS is usable but in a perfect world I would have the procharger unit moved upward another 1/4'' -1/2'' for clearance reasons. Mine was banging the A/C lines at idle. I just finished bending them out of the way and tying them away from the battery floor, more work but very do-able still.

Lex- hey I tried contacting steve but no replies yet, if I get this honda 12:1 fmu, will I be screwed since it has no adjust ability?? I didn't know if 12:1 is enough by itself or would the gain/onset adjustments be needed fpr more fine tuning?
I haven't received your PM. Regarding to your question, the 12:1 FMU should work for any car. However, I never tried a specific FMU for a specific car so I'm not sure. The best bet is to go with a universal FMU.

If you switch to electric fans, you'll have more room for sure.
 
thanks for the reply steve, I tried using the forum messaging. Anywho I have a synapse synchronic fmu coming tomorrow. The honda one had no knobs at all so I cancelled that idea. This Synapse FMU is pretty interesting. here's the benefits over others, cartech included:

-no diaphram. It uses a piston for quicker response/better reliability.
-1/5th the size as others
-1:1- 12:1 adjustability as well as static.
-Bolts DIRECTLY in place of the oem unit. screws into toyota fuel rails from what i'm told.
-rebuildable innards
-1000hp compliant

-its fairly new but from what I could find installs netted a positive feedback.
fmu.jpg
 

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I also don't think it'll bolt on the stock fuel fail, but who cares. It's because this FMU acts as the piggy back fuel pressure regulator, which means you still keep the stock regulator. Just mount it with the screws on the firewall and run the lines to the stock regulator. If you need help on which fuel lines to connect to, just let me know. However, you'll need to know which ports on this FMU goes to what.

The FMU vacuum line must go directly to the manifold after the TB. You can tee it out right there, but don't tee it after any devices. I used to tee it after the stock regulator, but not parallel to it and I had the issue where under vacuum, the fuel is slow to react to boost. It jerked when I floor the gas on the freeway. I changed the location and it's very responsive now and there's no more jerk. I though it's a bad FMU but I was wrong.

Since this is adjustable from 1 - 12 ratio, make sure you max it out so it can pinch harder on the return line and create enough pressure for the required fuel. The stock fuel pump will have a very big chance to get stuck with too much pressure created by this FMU, so I don't think it's worth a try.
 
Thanks steve, info helped. This unit says its supposed to REPLACE the stock unit. Any problems w/ doing this?? Possibly overwork fuel pump?? If in-line after stock is the safest way then no questions asked... doing it that way. Even if this is labeled that way could I use it in conjunction w/ the stock one?
 
Thanks steve, info helped. This unit says its supposed to REPLACE the stock unit. Any problems w/ doing this?? Possibly overwork fuel pump?? If in-line after stock is the safest way then no questions asked... doing it that way. Even if this is labeled that way could I use it in conjunction w/ the stock one?
AEM also has several FMU to replace the stock regulator. I never tried direct replacement so I can't say. But I believe it should work. Here are the pictures of my setup.
 
Alright I get it now... I might need 2 fittings with vacuum lines atatched on other side so I can just attach to the return line where it turns into rubber. This unit has a large screw type on bottom and a tapped inlet for return (might have got that backwards) but either way fittings are needed :irked:. I plan on doing what you did steve, thanks for the pics, they helped me a lot.
 
You're welcome, Sean. I just boosted my car to 9 psi with this setup last night and it's really awesome. A huge difference with an additional of 3 psi. I think I'm at around 400 bhp or 300 rwhp. I'll stop at this 9 psi until I add 2 more injectors. I believe I'd like to go 12 psi with this setup, but risks are everywhere. The A/F ratio still shows perfect for 9 psi. Here's the article about the fuel pressure. http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html Good luck!!!
 
Here are some static pictures. It is common and normal for supercharger to make this type of noise. As for this unit have alot of potential to make more boost. The current setup yield 5-6 psi at 3.60" charger pulley. We can go as small as 2.50" That should give at least 20 psi. Lots of room left.
 


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