Which 1uz would you pick?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

RedPhoenix

New Member
Im buying a motor in the next 2 days. I have norrowed it down to these.

1) (Local) - Long block, no ac, pwr steering, etc, must use old ones - has wireharness - 92K miles $475 + gas for 100 mile round trip

2) Complete longblock minus pwr steering and maybe manifolds - has harness - 82K miles - Gaurunteed not to be garbage - $750 shipped

3) Complete long block w/ ac, pwr steering, accesoiries, manifolds, wireharness, ecu - 62k miles - start up and running video and pictures - motor sounds good. $1000 shipped

Keep in mind I will be rebuilding my old motor with new internals etc, so the cores off the accessories will be nice to have.

Please voice your opinions

Matt
 
I'd be buy an early one if you don't want to open the motor..Latter model if you replace with forged rods and pistons...
We can get them here for $650 motor/ box with accessories, cut loom though & no ecu...
 
Im buying a motor in the next 2 days. I have norrowed it down to these.

1) (Local) - Long block, no ac, pwr steering, etc, must use old ones - has wireharness - 92K miles $475 + gas for 100 mile round trip

2) Complete longblock minus pwr steering and maybe manifolds - has harness - 82K miles - Gaurunteed not to be garbage - $750 shipped

3) Complete long block w/ ac, pwr steering, accesoiries, manifolds, wireharness, ecu - 62k miles - start up and running video and pictures - motor sounds good. $1000 shipped

Keep in mind I will be rebuilding my old motor with new internals etc, so the cores off the accessories will be nice to have.

Please voice your opinions

Matt

Let's make sure we are speaking the same language. A long block is a term that describes a short block with heads and cam installed and NOTHING else. sometimes includes oil pan and valve covers with balancer. A short block is the block assembled with crank, rods pistons and sometimes balancer.

What I think you are refering to above is a complete engine without various accessories. Used engines are hit and miss. Guarantees range from strong to worthless. Shipping is obviously a problem as is what is wrong and who is at fault.

I would stay local if possible. 100 miles is no more than $35 in gas at 10 miles per gallon. So at +- $500 your first listing sounds good. Never believe mileage. How many 10 year old cars have less than 100k miles? If the engine was well maintained 100k is not a problem.

Now, if the last engine REALY has 62k and all the accessories are in good operating order that is attractive BUT I would negotiate down from $1000. But HOW do you know?
 
Now, if the last engine REALY has 62k and all the accessories are in good operating order that is attractive BUT I would negotiate down from $1000. But HOW do you know?


I understand. The 62k is legit. Its from a sponsor on CL, I have a video of the car with the motor in it. Its a clean motor, you can tell there is little mileage.

sorry, I got the terms mixed up. I mean its a motor that runs, has no accessoies or its a motor that has everything.
 
I agree with jbrady. Get the local engine. Under 100k you are surely good to go. Engine should suck and f**k me for 1000.
 


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