1uz oil pick up

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lowshow

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qld Australia
hey guys. i have a toyota crown 1uz with std auto. it's in a hilux 2x4 and i have a castlemaine rod shop sump and pick up... i am having problems getting oil preasure. any suggestions. i have had the oil filter and sender relocated using all good quality gear. it's located just below engine mount on drivers side now if that makes a differance.. had all top end rebuilt cams heads the lot... bottom end was fine. Do the oil pumps fail on these things??? very rare i thought. anyway i'm going to pull the sump off and check the pick up isnt blocked or loose. please help... i seems to show oil preasure when first turnd on then just drops straight out. yet the manual gauge showed no preasure.
 

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I have a remote filter setup on my 1UZ also, and I've seen the new oil pump not able to "catch" its prime during the two occasions we've been on the dyno with it. First time was with the initial oil fill, and I just chalked it up to everything being new. Second time was after we'd disconnected and flushed the remote setup, drained & changed the oil, then reconnected everything. No oil pressure again.

This is odd because these pumps are gerotor types which are positive displacement pumps.

What we did to sort it was to crank (not run) the motor while opening the discharge line from the oil pump. Once we had oil flowing out the discharge line, we tightened it back up, and then it started building oil pressure.

Make sure you have a good seal between the pickup and the oil pump. I used a paper gasket last time and maybe it wasn't enough - I'll be using some FIPG on it this time.
 
It is not uncommon to have trouble after a motor has been sitting for a while as all the oil drains from the pump and they fail to pump oil. If I have a sump off I tip oil down the oil pick up to ensure start up oil pressure. Another thing to check is that the remote is plumbed up the correct way. Incorrect connection will result in no or poor oil pressure.
Cheers
 
is there a way to tell which way the lines need to be. there is no indercaters that show this. it's such a sqeeze in there cant see much.
 
here is where in up too. i bleed the line via the sender hole and manualy turned it over. pulled sump off and cleaned it and resealed pick up after cleaning. tried swapping the braided lines over that run to filter. still no oil preasure and i cant keep turnin it over manualy cause it's starting to make noises. what do i do?? replace oil pump???
 
Replacing the oil pump is not like a normal V8.

The pump is the front engine plate and requires a fairly large strip down.

I would try feeding oil back down the pump through the outlet line and turn it over without the oil lines connected.

You could remove the spark plugs to ease the load on the bearings whilst they look for oil.

UZ's rarely don't prime so I would suspect it well may have oil pressure but your guage isn't showing it.

It may be the gauge isn't connected correctly or just knackered.

Personally my first port of call would be check there is oil in the sump then the pick-up's connection to the pump as if this isn't a perfect oil tight fitting it will never prime.

Don't rely on silicone to do the job as you will end up sucking it through the system.

If there was blockage in your filter or remote lines the guage would show pressure but the bearings wouldn't know about it.
 
is there anywhere i can be going wrong here. its now priming well out the sender hole which it wasnt before. it has a semi piston slap noise now. when i turn it over manualy.
 
When you pulled the sump off, was the pickup sealed up well to the oil pump?

How did the screen look on the pickup?

Maybe a dumb question, but you mentioned you had a new custom sump so are you sure you have enough oil in the motor that the pickup is below the oil level?

If you're concerned about piston/ring lubrication with all the cranking you're doing, shoot some WD40 down the spark plug holes until you get the oil pump sorted.

To avoid pumping fuel in from the injectors while you're cranking, you can pull the starter relay from the main relay box, and then put a jumper in its relay socket where its contacts would connect, whenever you want to spin the motor. I do this when I run a compression test. Without a key in the ignition, you can be sure the fuel pump, injectors, ignition, and all accessories are all deenergised, but you can still spin the motor this way.

Some people prefer to pull the main EFI relay(s) then spin the motor with the key, but my way is simpler, if you're careful. If you use a remote start button with a 2m lead and the right connections, then you don't need a helper to spin the motor.

Just make SURE you put the remote start button, or the jumper across the two points in the socket for the contacts of the start relay, not its coil, else you'll be in for a lot more problems than just the oil pump! If you accidentally short across the two wires for the relay's coil, you'll be sending +12 back to the ECU which could fry that output.

Here's a diagram of what I'm talking about - note, although this diagram is for an early LS400, the numbers on these points "may" not be the same for your start relay, so verify them first:
 
thanks for all your help guys. i think i have solved all problems today. the slight knockin was the crank lobes hitting the pick up a bit. fixed that. and bit of an air leak i think see how it goes. bought and installed oil pressure guage today i have about 85psi of pressure at 1500rpm is that ok...
 
yer possibly. i cant pin point it really cause i changed a number of things. but i think your right. i was shittin my self considering i just replaced 4 cams all full reco'ed heads.

thanks again guys. i'll get a vid in the next few days. i think yous will like.
 


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