What would you do if you see this car behind your rear view mirror?

[Lextreme II]

Here are some pictures of Wayne's Ultra Lextreme Tundra. He baby will be powered by 4 bolt main along with multiple Forced Inductions. Yes, inductions:

TRD Supercharger (M90)
STS Turbo System (GT35R)
NOS

Ross is working on his 3,000 hp pistons as we speak..... This is a unique and very Lextreme Tundra. Here are some pictures:

 

[XxSC400xX]

Would probably nearly rear-end someone while looking in the mirror scratching my head still wondering if that's intercooler on a Tundra. Looks very nice, any more pics?

 

[rytherwr]

More to come

Still in the building stage, but will post more as it progresses. Thanks for the interest....trying to make it one-of-a-kind...I think we will succeed.:redface:

Regards,
Wayne

 

[TundraEddie]

I thought you were selling the TRD SC?

 

[Lextreme II]

Nope... Wayne is going "All In" like those poker saying.... All In Baby......

 

[cribbj]

Really glad to see someone is going to do a compound FI project. I've wanted to do one for years, and this ought to be a super fun project. Good luck Wayne!

John

 

[rytherwr]

Couldn't have said it better, David

Sorry about that, my brain wasn't fully functional as I was planning this thing. Got to thinking about the turbo lag being exacerbated by the length of the piping and was going to set the Nitrous up to assist with spooling. Had the answer in my hand and didn't realize it.

I've changed my mind about selling the TRD S/C system and will use it to take care of the bottom end torque and feed the Turbo into it.

I have an LS1 NOS Noszle system that I am going to try to adapt to the normal fuel injection system so I can get even distribution of Nitrous and extra fuel, David is getting me some 550cc injectors and I am using a combo voltage step-up to the Supra TT fuel pump and boost referenced fuel regulator working off a solenoid to come in under boost. I may end up running two separate fuel systems, depending on what the tuning and afr show.

Once I get the engine together, I will install everything and open the wastegate so I don't see the turbo pressure and break it in for a 1000 miles or so before I get into the tuning business.

David has been a HUGE catalyst and help in the thought process and parts business, so my hat is off to the Mad Chinaman (sorry David, that just popped out and I think that will be your secondary handle behind Lextreme, or should we say "Lextreme, the Mad Chinaman???) :slaphappy

Thanks for the best wishes, John, and I am open to ideas and suggestions as we go along this rocky road, so please don't hesitate if you see me wandering off the workable path.

Happy Thanksgiving, Everybody!!!!!!!!!

Regards,
Wayne

 

[Lextreme II]

Wayne,

One suggestion i would give you is dont install the turbo system (i mean the whole system). Let you engine break in and change oil every 100 to 200 miles until u hit 1000 miles. Due to the new engine lots of dirty yucky oil will kill your turbo. After 1000 miles or so, check your oil quality and if its good, then u make the final oil change and install the STS system.

Two things for this delay turbo installation:
1. Let the engine break in properly
2. Only good clean oil enter the sensitive ball bearing turbo.

My plan is to after the 4.7 swap. I will run it N/A for a about 1,000-2,000 miles for breaking in. Then i will install the turbo system and let it run with stock fuel and just boost for 5-6 psi. After letting the engine run for a while and all the little misc things are working properly, then i will upgrade to the monster setup.

I think staging will help eliminate any problems. If you do it all at once, its hard to trace the problems. Wayne, WE ARE NOT WORTHY>>> WE ARE NOT WORTHY.....

 

[rytherwr]

Superb thoughts, my friend. I wasn't thinking of the oil going to the turbo....you are a brilliant tactician!!! I will do exactly what you say.....leave the turbo and oil feed lines, oil pump etc. uninstalled until I break it in. Of course, I will be running mine with the S/C as opposed to N/A but the intent is the same. After the break-in, I will install and get on with the tuning. Many thanks for the great advice. I don't have a lot of experience with turbo's so I'm hoping you folks who do will slap me around and keep me on the straight and narrow as we go through the process of resurrecting the Mean Green Machine.


Regards,
Wayne

 

[cowboy bebop]

Tell us more about these new Ross pistons coming out.

Eric

 

[MWP]

Whats with the mesh he has covered the IC with?
Its not going to let any air through....

 

[rytherwr]

Not so....tested with a 4 speed fan, a low speed blower, and a high speed blower...plenty of air goes through.

Wayne

 

[rytherwr]

Answer to Cowboy Bebop,

Pistons are one-off 3.710 custom made by Ross....Rings are Total Seal 3.720 stainless top, ductile iron second and standard tension oil rings cut by Total Seal down to 3.710 and matching pins are made to fit .927 piston and rod small end. Pistons are especially made to fit stock 2uzfe stroke and 5.7 chevy rod length to give 8.5:1 cr with 2uzfe chambers. Cutting the rings by .010 will raise the tension slightly, but not enough to worry about.

Wayne

 

[cowboy bebop]

Very interesting. I'm happy to see things moving along in the 'uz-fe family. I'm seriously considering the MID Darton sleeves on a 1uz-fe with 4" bore and a 2uz-fe crank stroked to 3.50. Then running forged LS1 internals. IF at all that we find that this is possible.

Eric

 

[Lextreme II]

MID is great for N/A. Actually its not that costly at all.

MID = 1,400
Labor = 1,000
Stock crank = Free, stock LS1 rods, and LS1 pistons.
3.5 Crank is about 1,000
Rods... costly.. and might requir custom pistons....

Best is to use MID with stock crank..... then u can just use the LS1 parts.... perhaps.. my third project..

 

[cowboy bebop]

Is it as effective when used with forced induction when used in the 4.00" bore?

What I am thinking is the 1uz-fe block, MID 4" bore, 2uz-fe crank, LS1 forged pistons (hopefully 9.5 : 1 CR),

With the Eagle H-beam 327 rods. Can these rods be used with the 4" bore LS1 pistons? I know the stock LS1 bore is 4", but what rods would we use to build the above motor?

I am curious if the sleeves affect the MAX HP the 1uz can withstand, and if it brings it up to somewhere near the maximum 2uz levels. I'm not lookning for a 1000HP block, but a 1500HP (maximum) block.

Eric

 

[Lextreme II]

http://www.lextreme.com/stroke.html

Here is the formulate to calculate cubic inch:
ENGINE CUBIC INCHES = (BORE) X (BORE) X (STROKE) X (.7854) X (NUMBER OF CYLINDERS)
4(LS1) x 4(LS1) x 3.31(2UZFE) x .785 x 8 = 332.59 cubic Inch

332 cubic is about 5.5 liters. Not a bad N/A application.... I think if you are going to resleeve the block, you better stay with N/A.

However, lets not go off topic.. this is Wayne's MGM (Mean Green Machine) thread....

 

[cowboy bebop]

True, let's not get off topic. If you'd like the Darton Sleeves thread is active in the engine mods section.

I'm also very interested to see how this twincharged application turns out.

Eric

 

[TundraEddie]

Is it me or is the intercooler photoshopped into the bumper?

And Dave,change the title to truck,not car :veryhappy

 

[rytherwr]

It's you....be glad to have you come to GA and check it out....I've got some wrenches that would probably fit....)

Wayne