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Warm Pudgy

New Member
OK just got my car back from the mechanic, had the front suspension fixed and aligned.

Got it out on the road for a bit to try it out, noticed a burned electronics smell (solder, burning fiber glass and plastic).

Radio wasn't working right, was making weird noises, then nothing. Turns on, but no sound.

Got it home, found that the smell was coming from the trunk. Couldn't find the source.

Went to turn it back on, won't start. Turns out I have no fuel pressure. Pull out the fuel pump, put it on a 12v DC, works fine.

Reconnect it, turn key, FP doesn't turn on. I bypassed the FP ECU, still won't turn on.

My guess is theres a short in the wiring some where, but I can't tell where all these wires go.

I'm thinking I can just run my own wires, but I'm not sure.

I'm a bit at a loss now, anyone know what to do?
 
Also while removing the fuel pump I noticed this little do-hickey

Is this all that important? Should I worry about the exposed wire?
 

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Well I've confirmed there is no short in the wiring from the FP ECU to the FP.

I think I read some where something about a switch in the ignition for the FP?

Or what about the security disabling the FP?
 
I don't get it.

I hooked the FP to my jump starter and the engine fired right up. Ran like a champ.

Then I wired it directly to the battery with a 10 amp fuse and a toggle switch, switched it on, can hear it running, then turned the key and it won't turn on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fuel pressure is good, and it will start with some starter fluid but it won't stay on
 
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did u measure voltage at the fpump when u ran the 10amp fuse and wire from direct battery

maybe you have dodgey fuse or fuse holder or dodgey wire
every now and then ive run wires from here to there and things dont work
u then test with multimeter and work way back from load to power source
 
What Sideshow said.

But two weeks ago I had a Getz in with the same problem. Complaint was "My CDs wont play and my car runs funny"...

Dead stereo took out the whole electrical system. And boy she was hot too
 
sideshow said:
did u measure voltage at the fpump when u ran the 10amp fuse and wire from direct battery

maybe you have dodgey fuse or fuse holder or dodgey wire
every now and then ive run wires from here to there and things dont work
u then test with multimeter and work way back from load to power source
Click to expand...

Voltage is fine.

Seems as though I'm not getting spark to any of the cylinders.

Plugs and cables are fairly new, less then 2k miles on them.
Ignition coils tested fine. Distributors are fine. TPS tests within ranges. The crank position sensor tests fine. Haven't been able to check cam sensors yet.

Could the ECU be causing this? How would I go about testing that?
 
Also, how should I go about testing the igniters?

So far the things I've been able to test have been relatively easy. The igniters seem a bit more complicated
 
best way to test ecu is fit it ot another similar car which is a big pain
otherwise find y u r not getting spark
start at leads then work way back to coils then ignitors then to ecu
u need an led testlight or scilloscope and check for pulses
if your tps is gettin voltage from .5 to 5v then your ecu is turning on
if u know someone with a coil/ignitor tester like i have then u can pulse the
ignitot trigger wire from the ecu this will test the spark side of things
if u get spark then that side of things is fine
if u dont get spark then work your way back form coils
its not hard if u have the right tool

and if your asking what dtcs are your better of getting a shop to look at it
 
Trouble codes

Connect TE1 to E1 in the diagnostic box, turn the ignition on and count the flashes of the check engine lamp. Post up the results as this will help us help you a bit more
 
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