what if the cams move when replaceing Timeing belt??

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V8_IS200_marcus

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HI guys, im about to replace my timeing belt, just a quick Q! if one of the cam,s move once the belt is of, what should i do turn it right round to line the marks up or just move it back?

Thanks

P.S i replaced the water pump last week, but when i put the belt on i think it has jumped, and nocked the timeing out!!
 
HI guys, im about to replace my timeing belt, just a quick Q! if one of the cam,s move once the belt is of, what should i do turn it right round to line the marks up or just move it back?

Thanks

P.S i replaced the water pump last week, but when i put the belt on i think it has jumped, and nocked the timeing out!!

If your engine came out of early LS400 (90-94) or early SC400, then you're ok. If its a 95+ you're screwed.
 
If your engine came out of early LS400 (90-94) or early SC400, then you're ok. If its a 95+ you're screwed.
its a 93 LS400 i have the car running but it now has a bad misfire at around 2500 / 3000 RPM and before i did the water pump the car was fine, so im start to think ithas jumped 1, or the cam moved when i put the belt on and i did not see it move.
 
hhmmm some one must know what to do if one of the cams move?? do i turn it right round and reline it up or just move it back to line it up??
 
how good of a mechanic are you

ive had 1uz cars come in with timing out a tooth or 2
i just drop the tensioner and its just enough slop to move the cam back

anyway there is afew warnings

tripple check the timing marks once yr done
as i have had other shithouse mechanics do timing belts and still get it wrong
as the timing marks can look decieving
anyway having facotry workshop manual helps alot with quality pics

another thing is take care when dropping tensioner
as you need to make sure belt doesnt drop of other cams
so gently clamp it on the pulleys on other side

drop tensioner and with spanner of cam thats moved gentle move it back as u prise
up the belt

can be done will take bout 30 mins
charge for 3 hours heheehehehe
just kidding
 
Hi Sideshow :rolleyes:

lol im no mechanic, i just like to play with my toy :D

and Thanks for your help

how good of a mechanic are you

ive had 1uz cars come in with timing out a tooth or 2
i just drop the tensioner and its just enough slop to move the cam back

anyway there is afew warnings

tripple check the timing marks once yr done
as i have had other shithouse mechanics do timing belts and still get it wrong
as the timing marks can look decieving
anyway having facotry workshop manual helps alot with quality pics

another thing is take care when dropping tensioner
as you need to make sure belt doesnt drop of other cams
so gently clamp it on the pulleys on other side

drop tensioner and with spanner of cam thats moved gentle move it back as u prise
up the belt

can be done will take bout 30 mins
charge for 3 hours heheehehehe
just kidding
 
ok i have lined the cams up with the marks on the back cover, and i have lined the crank up to the timeing mark on the oilpump, But my Q? is the dot on the crank is not at 6 o,clock now its just off,as i have used the oilpump timeing mark?

and when i 1st did the belt last week i had gone by the dot mark, is that why the timeing was out ?
 


Hi mate, yea thats what i went by last time, it says in that that the dot has to be at 6 o,clock, you but if you do that then the timeing mark on the crank dont line up with the timeing mark on the oilpump?

so i have done it by the back mark on the crank and lined it up to the oil pump timeing mark, the belt all lines up to the cam timeing marks, all seems well, i will let you know how it goes when i start her up, as before i could not get the car to 3000 RPM with out a bad misfire.
 
Are you using stock head gaskets? Thicker head gaskets may not allow you to align the belt correctly. The marks will line up at first, but when you tighten the tensioner, at least 1 side will be off. 1/2 of the tooth will be ok and it's hardly noticed.
 
A trick I saw recently was to use a cable tie to hold the cam belt in position on the cam that didn't need moving.

If for some reason you need to remove the tensioner and you don't want the cams to move cable tie the cam belt to both cam drives. This will only leave you the crank pulley where the belt could move/slip.
 


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