want a 1000 hp tt 1uzfe

[JBrady]

Here is a link for Mellings 3uzfe sleeves.
http://www.mellingcylindersleeves.c...icleId/53/New-Sleeve-for-Lexus-43L-3UZFE.aspx

The 3uz uses a 91mm bore vs the 87.5mm bore of the 1uz. IIRC the 3uz stock sleeve was only 1mm vs the 2mm for the eary 1uz. Like others here have recommended it is BEST to NOT bore the stock sleeves at all. Replacement brings with it other concerns including sealing and proper alignment.

 

[ash]

For the grout: ask your local performance shop that has done something before to a Chevy engine or so....
From what i remember: my tuner said..."fill it all up"...the machine shop said: better leave the cooling system intact if driven on the Autobahn for a long time...so ended up filling only the lower part to keep cooling circulation and support the block enough...
Works fine sofar !
Full filling might only be usefull for drag races...

yep,
ive had conversations , with the engine builder of the blown lexus hotrod on east coast of australia..
dont fix it to the top, or the block cracks..
need alitttle flexing to happen

 

[FoPar]

GET A GOOD TUNER, NO MATTER HOW BULLETPROOF U THINK U BUILT UR ENGINE WITHOUT A GOOD TUNER IT CAN GO IN A HEARTBEAT!! TUNER AND ENGINE BUILDER 2 MOST IMPORTANT THINGS seems everyone forgets to mention this. no need for grouting, we run factory sleeves and these are 100,000+km old sleeves . over 60 passes at the track and a few 1000km of street driving makes 1050-1100hp@engine on 25-26psi E85 runs 8.3@164 in a 3100lb Capri. Argo Rods, Ross Pistons, ported 1UZ heads, factory crank, twin GT35/40's 62mm turbo's. we run a custom head stud, its same size as factory however it has proven to hold the 25psi we run and 40psi that the blown engines used, we will be going up to 35psi shortly ourselves, ARP mains it's a turbo car not a blown car so there will be less stress on the crank etc, which means less problems with the block. the engine was built by GOMAC who did the Piranha Racing blown 1UZ, and has built a fair few other hi-po 1UZ's over the last 10-12 years. make sure u get a NEal Chance converter or u will have troubles getting it to spool. we run a custom manifold, but still use the factory bottom manifold. Ivan Tighes cams, run her on Brad Penn 15w40. factory valves etc.

video of the first time out on E85

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CGVBrZwYH4

tuning her http://www.youtube.com/user/MrPrasac#p/u/31/DMGFzT1cISM

 

[BigKriss]

FoPar, what management you guys running-Xenithonman..

 

[ash]

GET A GOOD TUNER, NO MATTER HOW BULLETPROOF U THINK U BUILT UR ENGINE WITHOUT A GOOD TUNER IT CAN GO IN A HEARTBEAT!! TUNER AND ENGINE BUILDER 2 MOST IMPORTANT THINGS seems everyone forgets to mention this. no need for grouting, we run factory sleeves and these are 100,000+km old sleeves . over 60 passes at the track and a few 1000km of street driving makes 1050-1100hp@engine on 25-26psi E85 runs 8.3@164 in a 3100lb Capri. Argo Rods, Ross Pistons, ported 1UZ heads, factory crank, twin GT35/40's 62mm turbo's. we run a custom head stud, its same size as factory however it has proven to hold the 25psi we run and 40psi that the blown engines used, we will be going up to 35psi shortly ourselves, ARP mains it's a turbo car not a blown car so there will be less stress on the crank etc, which means less problems with the block. the engine was built by GOMAC who did the Piranha Racing blown 1UZ, and has built a fair few other hi-po 1UZ's over the last 10-12 years. make sure u get a NEal Chance converter or u will have troubles getting it to spool. we run a custom manifold, but still use the factory bottom manifold. Ivan Tighes cams, run her on Brad Penn 15w40. factory valves etc.

video of the first time out on E85

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CGVBrZwYH4

tuning her http://www.youtube.com/user/MrPrasac#p/u/31/DMGFzT1cISM

the gomac engine is way gone now...
much new ideas / problems fix now
agreee 1000 % on tuner....sorry i took that for a given, and was naturally to be followed

 

[ash]

we will be going up to 35psi shortly ourselves, ARP mains it's a turbo car not a blown car so there will be less stress on the crank etc, which means less problems with the block. the engine was built by GOMAC who did the Piranha Racing blown 1UZ, and has built a fair few other hi-po 1UZ's over the last 10-12 years. make sure u get a NEal Chance converter or u will have troubles getting it to spool. we run a custom manifold, but still use the factory bottom manifold. Ivan Tighes cams, run her on Brad Penn 15w40. factory valves etc.

the soarer in WA is only running 33-34 psi, but larger turbos that you.
naturally it will make a fraction more power.

i like the PTC bolt together converter, the stator design , and pump angle / design is miles infront of neal chance
the PTC converter cars spool way faster, due to being 'looser ' down low, and tighter up top.

 

[ash]

converter pictures

top picture : 9.5 inch PTC, insides
middle: 9.5
last : 10.5 PTC , with each stator

 

[ash]

hi there guys looking at getting the project under way sooner rather then later. it will be twin turbo set up same as what i have in the car now. need as much info on the bottem end of the 1uzfe like week spots and any other stuff that you may know off.

need a good set of rods and pistons for it what brands i need help on this
compresion ratio 8.5 or 9.5
will run it on methanol or e85 fuel

i have
16 X 1600cc injectors
msd ignition same as is in car now
heads are done
cometic gaskets

speaking to ross pistons today, for extra $100, they can put a lump on the piston and make them more the 10.25 : 1 ...
10.25 is the most with oem head chamber, and flat top piston.

if you are using methanol, 10 : 1 is pretty cool to work with..

spend more money on the wrist pins, highly underrated topic

 

[FoPar]

runs an EMS 8860.

Macca's engine has done good for us we aren't blown so obviously it's easier on it, so would be less problems. we are going back 10 or 11 years ago when Macca did the Piranha engine im pretty sure that was his first ever 1UZ, Maurice Fabietti was their when it was being dynoed, even he was very impressed over 900hp on 20psi. he said throw a couple of turbo's on it and it will make 1100hp. a few things have changed since then our engine is only 4 years old, its not based on the dinosaur specs of 11 years ago. we get told this n this won't work and u won't make power etc etc yet we have proven people wrong. we haven't got alot of money to do R&D but we have time, so we try things and so far it has worked for us.

i know a few of the modular cars in the US run PTC i have heard they are good, we went to Chance and straight off the bat it has been perfect, a PTC might be better but not going to fork out a few grand to find out.

the way the car was built was street car first race car 2nd, only 8.5:1 comp it's not doing too bad with such low comp on E85. this was 4 years ago we started had we considered E85 back then it would be a different story. the car is 100% street driven. it's not towed to the track it's driven there, wheels changed, different plugs and race time.

might be worth asking the Gullotto's if they can tune it seeing as u r in WA.

 

[ash]

runs an EMS 8860.

Macca's engine has done good for us we aren't blown so obviously it's easier on it, so would be less problems. we are going back 10 or 11 years ago when Macca did the Piranha engine im pretty sure that was his first ever 1UZ, Maurice Fabietti was their when it was being dynoed, even he was very impressed over 900hp on 20psi. he said throw a couple of turbo's on it and it will make 1100hp. a few things have changed since then our engine is only 4 years old, its not based on the dinosaur specs of 11 years ago. we get told this n this won't work and u won't make power etc etc yet we have proven people wrong. we haven't got alot of money to do R&D but we have time, so we try things and so far it has worked for us.

i know a few of the modular cars in the US run PTC i have heard they are good, we went to Chance and straight off the bat it has been perfect, a PTC might be better but not going to fork out a few grand to find out.

the way the car was built was street car first race car 2nd, only 8.5:1 comp it's not doing too bad with such low comp on E85. this was 4 years ago we started had we considered E85 back then it would be a different story.

might be worth asking the Gullotto's if they can tune it seeing as u r in WA.

good to see the r & d happening...
twin turbo here too... as i tell PC when i speak to him, blowers are for fairy's ( no malice intended to others, just stirring paul up)

i can help out with the PTC if ur interested, as i have spare bolt together units here...
we have less than 5 % slip, no powerglide oil cooler, and i can hold my hand on the case after a mid 6 second pass...mineral atf oil, no syn stuff

i watched ur video, and i believe we can speed up the sppol time. i can jump on the trans break on 1st yellow, and be on 2 step before the last yellow.

agree 100% on 8.5 :1 comp...it does the job. just offereing other ideas. tuning method of higher static comp, includes increase of bsfc to cool off detination... many ways to skin the pussy...

cheers
ash

 

[FoPar]

good to see the r & d happening...
twin turbo here too... as i tell PC when i speak to him, blowers are for fairy's ( no malice intended to others, just stirring paul up)

i can help out with the PTC if ur interested, as i have spare bolt together units here...
we have less than 5 % slip, no powerglide oil cooler, and i can hold my hand on the case after a mid 6 second pass...mineral atf oil, no syn stuff

i watched ur video, and i believe we can speed up the sppol time. i can jump on the trans break on 1st yellow, and be on 2 step before the last yellow.

agree 100% on 8.5 :1 comp...it does the job. just offereing other ideas. tuning method of higher static comp, includes increase of bsfc to cool off detination... many ways to skin the pussy...

cheers
ash

which car do u have? i think there was a TT altered so im guessing that must be urs. those are the old video's it gets up on boost better now as we take the exhaust off, we are usually hitting the 2-step on the 3rd amber also but we are going to be starting to race pro lights in APSA. if we go in at about 3000rpm hit the transbrake and tramp it we think we should be ok.

what power and boost do u run? turbo's? what stall PTC? we have a 7000rpm stall on the NC we change at 8k, on 2-step at 6k. u wouldn't know how the PTC drives on the street? that's sorta the most important thing as the NC is very good there.

 

[ash]

which car do u have? i think there was a TT altered so im guessing that must be urs. those are the old video's it gets up on boost better now as we take the exhaust off, we are usually hitting the 2-step on the 3rd amber also but we are going to be starting to race pro lights in APSA. if we go in at about 3000rpm hit the transbrake and tramp it we think we should be ok.

what power and boost do u run? turbo's? what stall PTC? we have a 7000rpm stall on the NC we change at 8k, on 2-step at 6k. u wouldn't know how the PTC drives on the street? that's sorta the most important thing as the NC is very good there.

yes on the car..
we are changing classes in comp elinimator...from bb/aa to ee/aa , hence going to the lexus , from small cube sbc..

old combo was 36 psi, twin 72's
got twin 76s now
PTC stall is abit higher than yours, but a change of stator , and its way down...
ive always seen the NC stuff is just so super tight down low
its been a long process...

 

[BLOWN EA]

GET A GOOD TUNER, NO MATTER HOW BULLETPROOF U THINK U BUILT UR ENGINE WITHOUT A GOOD TUNER IT CAN GO IN A HEARTBEAT!! TUNER AND ENGINE BUILDER 2 MOST IMPORTANT THINGS seems everyone forgets to mention this. no need for grouting, we run factory sleeves and these are 100,000+km old sleeves . over 60 passes at the track and a few 1000km of street driving makes 1050-1100hp@engine on 25-26psi E85 runs 8.3@164 in a 3100lb Capri. Argo Rods, Ross Pistons, ported 1UZ heads, factory crank, twin GT35/40's 62mm turbo's. we run a custom head stud, its same size as factory however it has proven to hold the 25psi we run and 40psi that the blown engines used, we will be going up to 35psi shortly ourselves, ARP mains it's a turbo car not a blown car so there will be less stress on the crank etc, which means less problems with the block. the engine was built by GOMAC who did the Piranha Racing blown 1UZ, and has built a fair few other hi-po 1UZ's over the last 10-12 years. make sure u get a NEal Chance converter or u will have troubles getting it to spool. we run a custom manifold, but still use the factory bottom manifold. Ivan Tighes cams, run her on Brad Penn 15w40. factory valves etc.

thanks for the info fopar
will take it all on board i have tryed to track down info for the engine builder that you guys used but cant fined anything if you could send me the number or a site would be much appreciate

also what are the bores on the engine you are using in the capri is it a standard block or bored out what compression ratio you using

i have spoken to the gullottos over here in wa will be using them to dyno the car once all complete

i see you guys have not got grout in you engine

rods i will get are argo and ross pistons just need to see what compression ratio to run on this build

on the side of cams i see you mentioned you are using ivan tight cams must be a custom ground

 

[XR8tt]

Guys this is going in a 3500+ Lb car...

Grout is just insurance on any bored cylinders..
I have always said with good tune on any build..
Tune includes fuel supply, good stable ignition etc..

$5k is big $$ for a converter...

 

[ash]

Guys this is going in a 3500+ Lb car...

Grout is just insurance on any bored cylinders..
I have always said with good tune on any build..
Tune includes fuel supply, good stable ignition etc..

$5k is big $$ for a converter...

PTC is under $2000

 

[FoPar]

yes on the car..
we are changing classes in comp eliminator...from bb/aa to ee/aa , hence going to the Lexus , from small cube sbc..

old combo was 36 psi, twin 72's
got twin 76s now
PTC stall is abit higher than yours, but a change of stator , and its way down...
I've always seen the NC stuff is just so super tight down low
its been a long process...

ok kool, what's the best time so far with the 1UZ, is it 4L or 4.7L? i know PC runs 4.7L not sure if u or anyone else has made d switch.

i am doing a 4.6 modular, i have a bolt together NC the PTC sounds good if i have any drama's especially getting her up on boost. i am running powerglide and twin GT42R 75mm.

we have a weld together in the Capri, we just sent the old converter to NC and they put all the goodies inside, billet steel stators etc was only US$800 or $1300 for a brand new weld together. NC are not as expensive as people think i paid US$2300 for my bolt together.

BLOWN EA, Gomac doesn't really build engines anymore more he is retired, he helps us out a bit as he has been building engines for my bro and been a mate with him for over 20 years. he is however building a NA 1UZ for his son and by the sounds of it, it's going to be something crazy. Macca was always a wizz with porting, he mainly worked on old skool push-rod engines. but he did get a few UZ's going in boats etc, he was getting some ridiculous numbers out of the 1UZ's back in the day.

standard block, bore and sleeves and only 8.5:1 CR with urs i'd definitely be running 9.5+ if ur going E85 or methanol. had the sleeves soniced and they all seemed good enough to use. we don't run grout or anything, being a turbo car it's less stress on the engine compared to a blown car. the way we look at it was if the tune was good the heads would stay on and the block will remain intact the tune we run is fairly conservative.

 

[XR8tt]

It's good insurance for $150 ..
I guess engine builders don't like to admit they add any block fill to lower water coolant area's as they like to advertise how good they are at building engines etc...
Reminds me of a co in Melbourne that where specialists in BTR transmissions while the whole time there race car run a T400...With there name and BTR speciatists all over it..
While they where selling modded BTR's for $1000's...


As I've always said with good tune...

 

[FoPar]

It's good insurance for $150 ..
I guess engine builders don't like to admit they add any block fill to lower water coolant area's as they like to advertise how good they are at building engines etc...
Reminds me of a co in Melbourne that where specialists in BTR transmissions while the whole time there race car run a T400...With there name and BTR speciatists all over it..
While they where selling modded BTR's for $1000's...


As I've always said with good tune...

for $150 its worth it, if u do alot of street driving it may run a tad bit hot but it's worth the compromise.

we know Macca for over 20 years, if he put grout in he would say it, it's not like we are just nobodies off the street, he treated Joe like a son. he would never risk a customer's let alone Joe's engine. 30-40 years of building engines he had proved himself long before he even touched a Lexus.

i personally don't see how someone claiming not to put grout in the block makes them a better engine builder, initially it comes down to who made the block in the first place

 

[XR8tt]

The thing is too 20 years ago 500 H.P was a good lot of power..
But these days it's almost pre tune power levels so to speak..
Gone are the days of big clearance forged pistons etc...
There would hardly be a quick Clevo that hasn't been grout filled and they run easy on street to the Welsh plugs.. Core shift is the enemy with cast blocks..
As said it's the engine OIL temp that gets hot..
An extra 2 litre or so capacity fixes that..
Or at the power level you should have a LARGER cooling system anyway...
No point in having these safety features and power levels and leaving the cooling side of oil / coolant as std..
One of my engines has Siamese cylinder bores.. I often hear its an issue with cooling also.. NO its NOT if you set up cooling system to your power goals...
As cannot be stressed enough It's all in the combo or TUNE !!!
If your running a rail/ altered etc on alcohol ?? That's a different story..
Most serious Detroit [U.S] blocks are aftermarket now...

 

[FoPar]

Ford & Toyota make a great block, the modulars and 2JZ's are testament to that, both handling inexcess of 2000hp. the 2JZ's start to go at around 50psi and the modulars around 1500hp before they need to start being filled. as far as i can remember i have never seen any other factory block, heads and crank pump out 2500hp like the JZ and modulars..

as you said the engine etc is built to suit your HP requirements, you see alot of people do the engine and forget about the rest.