XR8tt
Active Member
Yep they can have S.O.O [State of origin ] AhahaThe latter John
You have heard of the difference between men and boys Tuf Lux?
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Justen ran his power numbers on a stock long block. Save your money, skip the internal upgrages and instead invest in proper fuel and spark supply and tuning... let me again mention TUNING.
Once you get your combination correct then you may consider rebuilding to increase strength. Skip the over bore, these engines have cast in thin wall iron liners and boring is not a good plan. If you simply must have more displacement go with more stroke. If you must have larger bore going with replacement sleeves would be the way to go but very expensive and subject to perfect machining. Instead, stay stock on the bore and even the stroke and make up for it with quality turbo system engineering and tuning.
Standing kms...
Hey Justen,
Can you tell us a bit more about the standing km "days", if these are a semi-regular thing?
If they are, what eligibility criteria are there? Are bikes allowed to enter? Or are these a private "by negotiation only" kind of thing?
PS. Nice to see the Celica getting better as the years roll on...Can still remember you driving it to Dubbo for the Toyota Nats years ago, having just bolted it together.
Standing 1000m video from today. Good fun but had clutch issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnKW4m1BHx0
Hey Justen,
Can you tell us a bit more about the standing km "days", if these are a semi-regular thing?
If they are, what eligibility criteria are there? Are bikes allowed to enter? Or are these a private "by negotiation only" kind of thing?
PS. Nice to see the Celica getting better as the years roll on...Can still remember you driving it to Dubbo for the Toyota Nats years ago, having just bolted it together.
JustenGT8
New Member
I'll try for 245 front and 265 rear. I have had a 265 on the front in the past for track work but overkill for the street.
I would love to get at least a 275 on the rear but the guards are virtually immovable and do need a flare to run rubber wider than 265.
The car is quite small so a 265 still looks pretty fat
I would love to get at least a 275 on the rear but the guards are virtually immovable and do need a flare to run rubber wider than 265.
The car is quite small so a 265 still looks pretty fat
JustenGT8
New Member
and BTW, just an update on my new twincharge adventure...it's dead in the water 
Apart from the mission of trying to find the sapce to squeeze in that massive single T, it turns out that twinscrews aren't great for this application as their internal seals don't like the excessive boost levels required with a twincharge setup. This is advice from Kenne Bells tech guy but it still wasn't exactly detailed 
He wouldn't say whether it was the internal compression and the end result that was the issue or the SC being fed boosted air....just that if you do feed them more than 5psi then they start blowing seals in their experience.
I'm not familiar with the internals but i assume these are the oil seals to the drive shaft he is referring too? Either way it's a bit of a risky proposition and running a big 2.6L twinscrew at a measely 5psi is a complete waste. Seems the M122 setup i built (and sold) was a better base for this proj, bugger
on the positive side. We ran Zuffen's engine thru an engine analyisng program with the 2.6L and the package is good for 900ish hp anyways I might give a straight SC setup a go again?
Apart from the mission of trying to find the sapce to squeeze in that massive single T, it turns out that twinscrews aren't great for this application as their internal seals don't like the excessive boost levels required with a twincharge setup. This is advice from Kenne Bells tech guy but it still wasn't exactly detailed He wouldn't say whether it was the internal compression and the end result that was the issue or the SC being fed boosted air....just that if you do feed them more than 5psi then they start blowing seals in their experience.I'm not familiar with the internals but i assume these are the oil seals to the drive shaft he is referring too? Either way it's a bit of a risky proposition and running a big 2.6L twinscrew at a measely 5psi is a complete waste. Seems the M122 setup i built (and sold) was a better base for this proj, bugger
on the positive side. We ran Zuffen's engine thru an engine analyisng program with the 2.6L and the package is good for 900ish hp anyways
I might give a straight SC setup a go again?hey justen, what was included on your total build where you hit 333kw, what it a 100% stock engine minus the intake mani on 10 psi? i am doing a 1uz swap into my IS300 and after reading your posts i am ditching the idea of twin charging so i will be selling my M90, i got the engine to rebuild it before going in so i am thinking of boring it out to the 3uz cylinder specs just to i can try to get some fordged 4.3L pistons for a lil more displacement, but i would like to do that, run the lextreme stage II cams, the .074" headgaskets the stock 92 1u rods, acl race bearing and ARP head studs and conn rod bolts, 550 to 600cc injectors, i already have a 255lph fuel pump from where my current setup is a 2jz-ge with a turbo kit, i would like to push the boost to about 18psi, do you recommend a single 76mm, or twin TD05s? (big 16G for dsm)
BTW i might possibly try to throw some H beam rods into the mix but boost would be going up to around 22 to 25psi and possibly 650cc injectors id like to hit the 400 to 475rwkw range, here in the land of the LS1-LS6 i def want something to spank some tail on some LS swapped S13s and so on
BTW i might possibly try to throw some H beam rods into the mix but boost would be going up to around 22 to 25psi and possibly 650cc injectors id like to hit the 400 to 475rwkw range, here in the land of the LS1-LS6 i def want something to spank some tail on some LS swapped S13s and so on
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Justen ran his power numbers on a stock long block. Save your money, skip the internal upgrages and instead invest in proper fuel and spark supply and tuning... let me again mention TUNING.
Once you get your combination correct then you may consider rebuilding to increase strength. Skip the over bore, these engines have cast in thin wall iron liners and boring is not a good plan. If you simply must have more displacement go with more stroke. If you must have larger bore going with replacement sleeves would be the way to go but very expensive and subject to perfect machining. Instead, stay stock on the bore and even the stroke and make up for it with quality turbo system engineering and tuning.
JustenGT8
New Member
Up to around 350rwkw on a street engine you don't need any mods at all, just a decent pair (or single) turbo with good intercooling and a good tune as already mentioned.
E85 helps and makes the whole thing less stressed and a new intake manifold would be the sole mod i would do, if anything, as this too just makes the whole job easier and less boost required.'
Turbo's? Take your pick. So many good aftermarket brands as great prices these days i wouldn't bother trying to scrounge an ex factory turbo to do the job. Just go with Precision, garret etc and use their flow/hp ratings. Get the smallest turbo that will give you the power you want and keep response lightening sharp....show the fools out there that turbos don't have to have lag
E85 helps and makes the whole thing less stressed and a new intake manifold would be the sole mod i would do, if anything, as this too just makes the whole job easier and less boost required.'
Turbo's? Take your pick. So many good aftermarket brands as great prices these days i wouldn't bother trying to scrounge an ex factory turbo to do the job. Just go with Precision, garret etc and use their flow/hp ratings. Get the smallest turbo that will give you the power you want and keep response lightening sharp....show the fools out there that turbos don't have to have lag
alright so basically keep the engine stock except for a possible intake manifold (upper and lower or just upper?) i know custom intake manifolds get pricey and to keep the build time low i may look into the best ranged cams and put the rest into a good turbo setup, id really like to get to the 373-411rwkw range, what about the Lextreme .074" head gaskets for a lil bit more boost? i understand what you mean about a turbo setup with no lag, i have a TD04 turbo on my factory 2jzge engine it made 305 rwhp and 335 rwtq on 10psi auto trans 450cc injectors, no lag and instant boost, plan to sell entire setup engine and trans for 3500 USD after the swap is complete. i was looking at a couple of T3/T4 turbos for twins rated at 350hp each, (T28 250hp each) one single T67 (rated 500hp), T72(rated 500-600, T76 (500-800) if i were to go single out of those which would you recommed? i plan to do a R154 swap to get the power to the wheels and possible re-gearing due to the fact i am running factory automatic rear diff, and from what i have heard anything as far as LSD, off road lockers, and ring and pinions made for the toyota 8in will fit my is300 diff, for the engine management i have a MAPecu2 from a previous project i was planning to run on it, if i decide to go for a full ecm im going to look into Mega Squirt MS3, im on a budget, but so far in parts i have a 1uzfe 186,000 mile complete engine, wire harness, auto trans, ecu, m90 supercharger and only have 450 USD in all the parts, i am going to build the turbo manifold myself, and do everything except for the tuning end up it, what i was thinking originally was make the turbo headers and where the pipe crosses the front of the engine at the bottom put a flange in there that way i can do the swap, get all the bugs and kinks worked out of it then be able to bolt the turbo kit on without having to remove the headers (i.e. pull the engine back out) thanks to all your guys advice my overall swap and build time will be cut down by a whole heck of a lot!!! if i can make the headers how i would like i may try making several sets for the SC400 guys around here, BTW the entire reasoning behind this swap is for the sole purpose of UNIQUE!!! people are hating me for taking out a 2jz platform for a 1uz, but i have faith in the 1uz, and i believe i will be about the first one to put a 89-92 1uzfe into an SXE10 chassis in the states, ive seen the altezza/IS200 builds on the net and i love em!!!!
one thing i havent really looked into but have wondered is the oil feeding for 2 turbos, on my IS i used a short nipple to come off the engine block then a 4way brass block screwed onto it which i took my oil feed off of, my oil pressure gauge, and factory oil sending unit, with the 1uz it is virtually the same but just take 2 turbo oil feeds off of it?
P.S. there are only 2 E85 stations here in the knoxville area i believe
one thing i havent really looked into but have wondered is the oil feeding for 2 turbos, on my IS i used a short nipple to come off the engine block then a 4way brass block screwed onto it which i took my oil feed off of, my oil pressure gauge, and factory oil sending unit, with the 1uz it is virtually the same but just take 2 turbo oil feeds off of it?
P.S. there are only 2 E85 stations here in the knoxville area i believe
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JustenGT8
New Member
It runs!! I worked my way thru a series of issues, the final one being the dodgy pricks i bought the injectors from sold me 550s not the 1000s i ordered....with the base fuel calibration you use in the Autronic it was running way lean and obviously wouldnt start. Once i twigged to that and reset the fuel cal it fired first go
was shortly followed by though. Engine has a dirty great knock? Oil pressure is very healthy and the knock seems to be top end? I don't think the seller is on here any more and doubt he'd have much to say seeing it was sold as a runner with no issues very disappointing when you get ripped off by a forum that's supposed to be about helping like minded enthusiasts I guess i should hold my disgust in check until i solve what the noise actually is, but it doesn't sound good...with Ross pistons i don't think it could be piston slap?
was shortly followed by though. Engine has a dirty great knock? Oil pressure is very healthy and the knock seems to be top end? I don't think the seller is on here any more and doubt he'd have much to say seeing it was sold as a runner with no issues very disappointing when you get ripped off by a forum that's supposed to be about helping like minded enthusiasts I guess i should hold my disgust in check until i solve what the noise actually is, but it doesn't sound good...with Ross pistons i don't think it could be piston slap?Similar threads
