TPS and Coil Resistance Specs
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
cjsupra90
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I have a pair of coils if needed but it would probably be easier to get some over there a bit closer to home....
Thanks mate. I haven't got a quote yet on some new ones, but @ $90ea in Lex's shop they could be double that here.
Is there a way to 'test' if a coil is on the way out? My ignition is doing some minor funky things, but i've got fresh plugs and leads etc
Is there a way to 'test' if a coil is on the way out? My ignition is doing some minor funky things, but i've got fresh plugs and leads etc
cjsupra90
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There is generally a resistance test for the Primary and some times secondary side of the coil... I dont know what the specs are, but I'll try to find them for you...
cjsupra90
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Ok, did a little quick digging and found the coil resistance specs
Primary side resistance
.36 to .55 ohms (cold)
.46 to .65 ohms (hot)
Secondary side resistance
9.0 to 15.4 K ohms (cold)
11.4 to 18.1 K ohms (hot)
Hot and cold is defined as cold being below 104*F (50*C) and hot being above that temp...
Just in case you are unfamiliar with checking the coils, here is how.
Using a Volt/Ohm meter, measure resistance between the Coil Positive and Coil Negative terminals. This will give you the Primary side value.
Checking between Coil Positive and High Tension lead (Coil to dizzy cap wire) terminals will give you the secondary values...
I would try the check with a drastic temp difference like checking for the cold specs in the morning before you start the vehicle for the first time of the day, then check the hot specs right after shutting the engine off after a good driving cycle that you know the engine and engine bay temps have gotten as hot as they are going to get under normal driving....
Primary side resistance
.36 to .55 ohms (cold)
.46 to .65 ohms (hot)
Secondary side resistance
9.0 to 15.4 K ohms (cold)
11.4 to 18.1 K ohms (hot)
Hot and cold is defined as cold being below 104*F (50*C) and hot being above that temp...
Just in case you are unfamiliar with checking the coils, here is how.
Using a Volt/Ohm meter, measure resistance between the Coil Positive and Coil Negative terminals. This will give you the Primary side value.
Checking between Coil Positive and High Tension lead (Coil to dizzy cap wire) terminals will give you the secondary values...
I would try the check with a drastic temp difference like checking for the cold specs in the morning before you start the vehicle for the first time of the day, then check the hot specs right after shutting the engine off after a good driving cycle that you know the engine and engine bay temps have gotten as hot as they are going to get under normal driving....
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cjsupra90
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Oh, make sure to zero out your meter before checking resistance values or if you cant zero it out (some cheaper meters dont have this ability) then measure the resistance of the meter leads by holding the probes together and seeing how much resistance you get, then make sure to subtract that value from the readings that you take from the coil.... This is especially important when checking the primary side of the coils cause the resistance specs are extremely low and meter lead resistance will add to it and cause the meter to show much more resistance then what is really in the primary side...
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Bryan,
If you're still after the coils ans TPS let me know I have them all.
If you're still after the coils ans TPS let me know I have them all.
Wow thankyou heaps for that info Chris! Will definitely do that tomorrow.
As for the TPS, I have adjusted it properly, but I tend to find my throttle feels like it jumps from say 60% to 90% as I progress with the accelerator pedal. There's a definite jump in it's progress, plus i've had a few idling issues over the year that the IAC doesn't influence.
All my issues seem to be magnified when running on LPG to. A slight miss on petrol is almost undriveable on lpg....
Anyways, I'd be keen on at least the TPS Rod, probably will pay to get the coils as spares anyway (will be a long time before I go custom ignition.) IF you could pm or email me what sort of $ will get them in an Overnight bag that'd be great!
Thanks again for the info cjsupra
Cheers,
Bryan
[email protected]
As for the TPS, I have adjusted it properly, but I tend to find my throttle feels like it jumps from say 60% to 90% as I progress with the accelerator pedal. There's a definite jump in it's progress, plus i've had a few idling issues over the year that the IAC doesn't influence.
All my issues seem to be magnified when running on LPG to. A slight miss on petrol is almost undriveable on lpg....
Anyways, I'd be keen on at least the TPS Rod, probably will pay to get the coils as spares anyway (will be a long time before I go custom ignition.) IF you could pm or email me what sort of $ will get them in an Overnight bag that'd be great!
Thanks again for the info cjsupra
Cheers,
Bryan
[email protected]
cjsupra90
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Bryan, your welcome..
If your suspecting a problem with the TPS you could easily check it.
If your looking at it as mounted on the TB, measure the resistance between the TOP and BOTTOM pins.. It should be at least 3K ohms but not more then 7K ohms... As long that is fine, then check between the TOP and SECOND DOWN pins. The resistance value should be high but still probably less then what you measured in the first step now slowly open the throttle and the resistance value should drop in a nice linear fashion as you open the throttle in a slow linear fashion. If you see a sudden decrease in resistance but there wasn't a drastic chance in throttle movement, then you could suspect the TPS. If the drop in resistance is nice and linear, then I would forget about it being TPS related..
If your suspecting a problem with the TPS you could easily check it.
If your looking at it as mounted on the TB, measure the resistance between the TOP and BOTTOM pins.. It should be at least 3K ohms but not more then 7K ohms... As long that is fine, then check between the TOP and SECOND DOWN pins. The resistance value should be high but still probably less then what you measured in the first step now slowly open the throttle and the resistance value should drop in a nice linear fashion as you open the throttle in a slow linear fashion. If you see a sudden decrease in resistance but there wasn't a drastic chance in throttle movement, then you could suspect the TPS. If the drop in resistance is nice and linear, then I would forget about it being TPS related..
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Bryan,
Just PM me your address and I'll post them to as a Christmas present.
Just PM me your address and I'll post them to as a Christmas present.
Ok scratch that for the minute, I think my $10 multi might be on the way out. IT will only read resistance in the negative direction on anything, and the numbers seem a bit wayward....
A 2.4K ohm resistor in line reads -7.5K one way, and open circuit the other....
A 2.4K ohm resistor in line reads -7.5K one way, and open circuit the other....
Yeah it shits me, because LPG is amplifying it big time. At the moment anything over 2/3 throttle (maybe less) and lpg just misfires, won't build revs. Petrol seemingly runs fine. Also, on lpg i can hear a miss at idle.
I tried tricking the ECT today to see if it's thinking the engine is hot and is pulling timing (lpg is high octane so needs some timing) but the same happened.
I tried tricking the ECT today to see if it's thinking the engine is hot and is pulling timing (lpg is high octane so needs some timing) but the same happened.
Just got one of the old coils out, the primary cold resistance is 0.9 Ohms. Doesn't sound huge but that's close to double the specs you posted.
Wonder what that means in operation terms though.....?
The two coils Rod sent me fall into spec (cold) perfectly.
Wonder what that means in operation terms though.....?
The two coils Rod sent me fall into spec (cold) perfectly.
A finding on the second coil:
It shows a decent resistance on Primary side, but no matter how many different ways I put the multimeter it won't pick up a secondary resistance, just stays open circuit.
All the other coils show a healthy 12.5 ohm resistance, but this one just does nothing. Which sounds odd, because the car was still driveable on petrol.
It shows a decent resistance on Primary side, but no matter how many different ways I put the multimeter it won't pick up a secondary resistance, just stays open circuit.
All the other coils show a healthy 12.5 ohm resistance, but this one just does nothing. Which sounds odd, because the car was still driveable on petrol.
cjsupra90
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You dont think that you could have been running on only 4 cylinders do you????
Surprizingly, I had a car I was dealing with not to long ago that had a bad ignitor and was only running on 4 cylinders (obviously) and actually wasn't half bad in the way that it ran except that it was down noticably on power....
You having a supercharger could mask this to a point too..
Surprizingly, I had a car I was dealing with not to long ago that had a bad ignitor and was only running on 4 cylinders (obviously) and actually wasn't half bad in the way that it ran except that it was down noticably on power....
You having a supercharger could mask this to a point too..
