stevechumo
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In that case, then I guess regular Supra TT rotors won't work without modifications. And David is perfectly right.jibby said:
Supra TT Big Brake Upgrade for SC400
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Tst, tst..I don't know what to say for your troubles, buddy. I just feel bad for you. I don't know about the IS300 lug nuts. I'm only using the ARP studs made for the IS300 on the rear. They're freaking long. My cousin just bought them for $64/10 studs shipped to his door. I had to pay $110/10 studs with pick-up half a year ago. The price has gone down. But there's an alternative way to it. Kragen Auto has the studs that are 1/4" longer than the SC studs. They're made for some Toyota or Lexus, and I forgot which. So you may bring the stock SC and compare. Each stud is only $2. It should be perfect for your 5/16" spacers. I'm using 10 of Kragen studs for the front with 1/4" spacers. I have spacers all 4 corners. The hassle is to knock out the studs. How thick are your current spacers?
Porsches actually still use holes (and BTW, they are cast into the blanks, not drilled later) for water evacuation in endurance racing. They understand that the rotors will still crack, so they change them after every event.
In any case, crossdrilling is only done for looks on most cars, and will not contribute to better stopping on any car used on the street, and will contribute to cracked rotors on the track (and on the street after enough heat/cool cycles have elapsed).
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm
Again, the things that REALLY stop your car, are the tires, and changing them will reduce stopping distances and change how much control you have.
http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
And to be honest, if youy look around, Brembo doesn't sell crossdrilled rotors for street cars. You can buy aftermarket modified Brembo blanks, drilled by another company.
Read the links I just gave.
There is no empirical data that shows that cross drilled rotors are better than stock or OE equivalents. None whatsoever. Manufacturers have been known to embellish claims about their products. If you don't believe this then you are a sucker and I have a bridge I would like to sell you. The claims they make in the lines you quoted are vague and uninformative. They say things like "increased cooling" and "better brake response" but they don't qualify those statements with data of any kind. Where do they give percent increases or stopping distance decrease numbers? Yes it would be different on every car but they could still do tests and compile a median average and give a percent. That is how statistics and sampling work. It is the same principal that allows 1000 people to be surveyed and a public opinion of an issue can be accurate within 8% for the whole nation. Sampling rates my friend.
All manufacturers do it - even the most reputable ones. It isn't lying or uncommon. The claims are too broad to say they are false. That is how marketing works.
Many of the top brake manufactures have drilled rotors available. Customers want it and it looks "cool." ALL of them acknowledge that the drilling doesn't help, and are prone to cracking.
From StopTech:
Q: Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?
A: STOPTECH provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street use they will generally work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
From Wilwood:
Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
From Rennsport:
Porsche used cross-drilled rotors with mixed success. The Zimmerman rotors used on the 930 Turbo brakes were very soft and crack prone, even though the holes were chamfered. The later Brembo rotors will also show some wear when used with most performance brake pads. Some of the best rotors in the world are made in Britain by AP and Alcon. Those rotors, when properly adapted, seem to be superior to the Brembo ones in terms of wear and crack resistance. All drilled rotors will crack sooner or later if overheated. Slotted rotors are more durable in this regard however they are heavier. One reason that most large iron rotors are cross-drilled is to save some unsprung weight. Since nice big, light, carbon rotors cost $1000 each, saving some weight without bankruptcy, is important. Plus, carbon rotors possess very little friction until they reach 500-600 degrees F.
You probably don't remember the issue with the 13" Brembo rotors on the factory Mustang Cobra in '99, but they were prone to catastrophic failure.
Think about this... How does drilling material from a cast part NOT weaken it? Think metallurgy and chemistry.
http://www.gagme.com/greg/911/slideshow.php?sect=index&fn=crackedrotors2.jpg
http://www.rennsportsystems.com/2c.html
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=PowerSlot&model=Pro+Stop+Rotor
And even there, they still state that the brakes outgass, which no modern brake pads do.
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/load?t=powerslot/all_products.html&ajr_skey=0a42ef2e70004b140c21d1db2f0af6aa
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakes.htm
Check out that about halfway down the page (drilled vs slotted vs normal rotors)
From a brake engineer:
The ONLY reason to use them on the street is the mad blingin' factor, but do not use them in any serious performance application, ESPECIALLY ones that have been drilled AFTER the fact into cast rotors! At least the FACTORY ones are cast with the holes IN them, so they are at least designed to last a LITTLE longer than aftermarket ones.
In any event I can tell you that the pieces installed on the GT2 are significantly different than the stock blanks that are drilled, re-badged and sold to kids as "performance" items.
Again, even top manufacturers like BMW use fake parts on thier performance cars to make them look fast. And cigarette manufacturers and gun manufacturers still make and sell THEIR products, even though they are known to be dangerous. Saying they wouldn't sell them if they weren't up to par is naievety.
Let me ask the converse of your Porsche question: "If cross drilled or slotted rotors are so great, why do very few manufacturers use them?"
Answer: "There never was an advantage to using these rotors on average street cars. There was, at one time, and advantage on high power race cars. This is no longer true. Making drilled rotors obsolete."
This conversation comes up in a lot of places... http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=207758
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=480082
Especially read the last one.
jibby
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Steve, looking it over closely I David is very right.... I am hoping our adapter/wheel spacer place in Canoga Park should be able to help me out with this situation. I need the 5/16 spacer anyway to perfectly clear the caliper. So after changing out my Y pipes tomarrow I will head over to Canoga. I will bring the old guy my rotor and rim for hub measurements and suggestions. I think together and with all his machines, we will be able to figure something out together...Did you know that old guy use to be a nascar drive when it first started? He is smarter then you would think. Forgot to tell you that one..
The crapy thing about this is I am not looking forward to is this changing out to longer studs deal, and paying for yet another 2 wheel spacers. Going for the discount please approach with the Old guy, wish me luck he likes me.. Steve I think you said the IS lugs grip extra threads do you think those will work on a 5/16"s spacers and not need the longer studs?
The crapy thing about this is I am not looking forward to is this changing out to longer studs deal, and paying for yet another 2 wheel spacers. Going for the discount please approach with the Old guy, wish me luck he likes me.. Steve I think you said the IS lugs grip extra threads do you think those will work on a 5/16"s spacers and not need the longer studs?
JamesNSC4
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Hey John, Why don't you buy the modify set like david suggested and sell your supra rotors right now on ebay or something. You might break even or loose a bit of money. IMO i dont see why you need to go to so much trouble to modify this rotors to make it fit. But that is just my thinking. Good luck buddy.
stevechumo
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Hey James,jibby said:
Tst, tst..I don't know what to say for your troubles, buddy. I just feel bad for you. I don't know about the IS300 lug nuts. I'm only using the ARP studs made for the IS300 on the rear. They're freaking long. My cousin just bought them for $64/10 studs shipped to his door. I had to pay $110/10 studs with pick-up half a year ago. The price has gone down. But there's an alternative way to it. Kragen Auto has the studs that are 1/4" longer than the SC studs. They're made for some Toyota or Lexus, and I forgot which. So you may bring the stock SC and compare. Each stud is only $2. It should be perfect for your 5/16" spacers. I'm using 10 of Kragen studs for the front with 1/4" spacers. I have spacers all 4 corners. The hassle is to knock out the studs. How thick are your current spacers?
Lextreme II
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I dont want to scare every CL members with Supra TT Brake conversion. The standard supra rotors work but dont work well because of the play.
ChrisV
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Nope. Slots were for getting rid of pad dust and dirt on rally cars, and have been incorporated into other realms. They still remove material and contribute to heat stress and cracks.xirforever said:
Porsches actually still use holes (and BTW, they are cast into the blanks, not drilled later) for water evacuation in endurance racing. They understand that the rotors will still crack, so they change them after every event.
In any case, crossdrilling is only done for looks on most cars, and will not contribute to better stopping on any car used on the street, and will contribute to cracked rotors on the track (and on the street after enough heat/cool cycles have elapsed).
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm
Again, the things that REALLY stop your car, are the tires, and changing them will reduce stopping distances and change how much control you have.
http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
ChrisV
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Yes, switching to brand new parts after having old parts that had heat cycling, etc will improve your braking. Had you even replaced your old parts with brand new OEM parts, you would have noticed an improvement, also. If you replaced your pads with upgraded pads, you would have noticed even more improvement. But, there is NOTHING in crossdrilling that will increase your braking power. Seriously, you don't want to start arguing with racers or engineers on this point. Read the links in my last post for more, real info.jibby said:
Because it looks like a race car. Simply put. Why do a LOT of ricer parts get sold? I mean, you've seen the fake BOVs, fake intercoolers, fake exhaust tips. We've seen factory cars with fake aero parts (like fake scoops, and the like). Hell, BMW's M3 had FAKE a rear underbody diffuser! Why would a respected performance company put a fake poart like that on their performance car???
And to be honest, if youy look around, Brembo doesn't sell crossdrilled rotors for street cars. You can buy aftermarket modified Brembo blanks, drilled by another company.
Read the links I just gave.
There is no empirical data that shows that cross drilled rotors are better than stock or OE equivalents. None whatsoever. Manufacturers have been known to embellish claims about their products. If you don't believe this then you are a sucker and I have a bridge I would like to sell you. The claims they make in the lines you quoted are vague and uninformative. They say things like "increased cooling" and "better brake response" but they don't qualify those statements with data of any kind. Where do they give percent increases or stopping distance decrease numbers? Yes it would be different on every car but they could still do tests and compile a median average and give a percent. That is how statistics and sampling work. It is the same principal that allows 1000 people to be surveyed and a public opinion of an issue can be accurate within 8% for the whole nation. Sampling rates my friend.
All manufacturers do it - even the most reputable ones. It isn't lying or uncommon. The claims are too broad to say they are false. That is how marketing works.
Many of the top brake manufactures have drilled rotors available. Customers want it and it looks "cool." ALL of them acknowledge that the drilling doesn't help, and are prone to cracking.
From StopTech:
Q: Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?
A: STOPTECH provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street use they will generally work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
From Wilwood:
Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
From Rennsport:
Porsche used cross-drilled rotors with mixed success. The Zimmerman rotors used on the 930 Turbo brakes were very soft and crack prone, even though the holes were chamfered. The later Brembo rotors will also show some wear when used with most performance brake pads. Some of the best rotors in the world are made in Britain by AP and Alcon. Those rotors, when properly adapted, seem to be superior to the Brembo ones in terms of wear and crack resistance. All drilled rotors will crack sooner or later if overheated. Slotted rotors are more durable in this regard however they are heavier. One reason that most large iron rotors are cross-drilled is to save some unsprung weight. Since nice big, light, carbon rotors cost $1000 each, saving some weight without bankruptcy, is important. Plus, carbon rotors possess very little friction until they reach 500-600 degrees F.
Nitorus kits can be unsafe, too. Yet they are still on the market. A LOT of aftermarket parts might be unsafe if used on the street, yet they are still being sold. Cheap seats that can fold up in a crash, wheels that have the centers break out of them, etc.
You probably don't remember the issue with the 13" Brembo rotors on the factory Mustang Cobra in '99, but they were prone to catastrophic failure.
Think about this... How does drilling material from a cast part NOT weaken it? Think metallurgy and chemistry.
Again, the pads themselves would be responsible for that improvement. Had you used new OEM rotors and those pads, the end result would have been the same. You changed multiple things from old, worn parts, and are ascribing the changes you feel to the wrong components. It really is as simple as that.
jibby
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Chris V - Recieved and understood....like I said I have heard this before about the rotors but really didn't take it with a grain of salt. I just don't understand why a manufacturer of one of the finest sports car made would install something like the drilled and slotted rotors in the Porsche's if they were inferior?... That does not make sense to me, especially on a $100k well engineered performance car like the Porche's and others that reach really fast speeds and require a fine braking system. It's hard for me to believe they would compromise preformance and liability for looks in the rotors? I am not going to argue with the experts but I think that something is a miss here.
jibby
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Guys, I got the plan to solve this problem and it isn't that costly. I don't need to re-sell these rotors on Ebay just yet, even though that is what I should probably do. Even though these rotors will shake, crack, overheat and fail etc... I have reason to believe that with a percisely fitted adapter/spacer made perfectly to fit with the hub lip and rotor these rotors of mine will brake smoothly and safetly without vibration for years to come. I may be wrong but will post later with results..
stevechumo
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As for the information that ChrisV gave, I agreed on some but disagreed on some.
First, I agreed that crossdrilled rotors are more prone to cracks, but that problem is for cheap and too-many-drilled-holes rotors. I agreed that drilled rotors are reduced in weight which causes cracks. However, with bigger rotors, that cracking is minimized because they still have the weight needed to sustain heat.
Second, Chris meant crossdrilled rotors are not benefitable for street use. That's only half true. They're necessary and not necessary for street use, and depending on how heavy the driver applies the brake. If the driver always drives at the exact speed limit, never tailgates...etc, any brake is the same to him. However, if he drives fast, has the need for speed, then crossdrilled rotors are really benefitable. They keep the rotors cool and thus are less prone to brake fade. For example, if the driver drives in L.A., San Francisco, or New York cities during rush hours, his brakes would get pretty hot. And that's when cross drilled rotors are really benefitable.
Third, I agreed with Chris that slotted rotors are less prone to cracks than drilled rotors and they're to release excessive water on the rotors, which can cause brake fade. But slotted rotors increase pad wear quickly and increase noise.
And I agree with John that if drilled/slotted rotors are dangerous, then expensive auto manufacturers will not install them. Period. They don't want to deal with law suits from those rich drivers, who can cause millions of dollars loss to the auto manufacturers.
My conclusion is that depending on how the driver is, using crossdrilled/slotted rotors should be considered carefully before using.
First, I agreed that crossdrilled rotors are more prone to cracks, but that problem is for cheap and too-many-drilled-holes rotors. I agreed that drilled rotors are reduced in weight which causes cracks. However, with bigger rotors, that cracking is minimized because they still have the weight needed to sustain heat.
Second, Chris meant crossdrilled rotors are not benefitable for street use. That's only half true. They're necessary and not necessary for street use, and depending on how heavy the driver applies the brake. If the driver always drives at the exact speed limit, never tailgates...etc, any brake is the same to him. However, if he drives fast, has the need for speed, then crossdrilled rotors are really benefitable. They keep the rotors cool and thus are less prone to brake fade. For example, if the driver drives in L.A., San Francisco, or New York cities during rush hours, his brakes would get pretty hot. And that's when cross drilled rotors are really benefitable.
Third, I agreed with Chris that slotted rotors are less prone to cracks than drilled rotors and they're to release excessive water on the rotors, which can cause brake fade. But slotted rotors increase pad wear quickly and increase noise.
And I agree with John that if drilled/slotted rotors are dangerous, then expensive auto manufacturers will not install them. Period. They don't want to deal with law suits from those rich drivers, who can cause millions of dollars loss to the auto manufacturers.
My conclusion is that depending on how the driver is, using crossdrilled/slotted rotors should be considered carefully before using.
jibby
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I can tell you this about the crossed and drilled rotors and that is that they are more prone to rust then the stock rotors... That is the only difference that I can see tell. I looked over my crossed and drilled rotors closely that I have been running on my car for a little over a year, and there is no evidence of cracking or any other type of flaw. I am a heavy braker as well.. Conclusion, I think they are good to go for street use....
ChrisV
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As the brake manufacturers stated, ALL crossdrilled brakes are prone to cracking.stevechumo said:
Um, no. In fact, there is NO way that crossdrilling helps the brakes cool anything. Period. Removing material from the brakes makes them heat up QUICKER, not slower. Removing material means there is less material to absorb heat from the pads. This is a metallurgical fact.
http://www.gagme.com/greg/911/slideshow.php?sect=index&fn=crackedrotors2.jpg
http://www.rennsportsystems.com/2c.html
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=PowerSlot&model=Pro+Stop+Rotor
And even there, they still state that the brakes outgass, which no modern brake pads do.
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/load?t=powerslot/all_products.html&ajr_skey=0a42ef2e70004b140c21d1db2f0af6aa
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakes.htm
Check out that about halfway down the page (drilled vs slotted vs normal rotors)
From a brake engineer:
This is info from someone who depends on good brakes, and engineers good braking systems. Again, go back and follow my links.
ChrisV
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This is the predictable response from people who don't know cars very much. And every time this subject is brought up, and brake engineers and racers state what I have, some layperson says, "so why does Porsche have them if they are only for bling factor?" You really don't get it, do you? They KNOW they are more prone to cracking, and have stated as much. I've seen them crack. Driving as fast as the cars can go is dangerous, too, but they keep making them faster. The point is, again, on the street they provide NO benefit, and can be dangerous, and on the track they MIGHT provide a benefit in certain circumstances (i.e. standing water), but are changed after each event to make sure they don't fail. And remember, the Porsche factory ones (as well as the Z06 ones) are cast with the holes in them, so there is less chance of a stress crack forming from where they were drilled after the fact.
The ONLY reason to use them on the street is the mad blingin' factor, but do not use them in any serious performance application, ESPECIALLY ones that have been drilled AFTER the fact into cast rotors! At least the FACTORY ones are cast with the holes IN them, so they are at least designed to last a LITTLE longer than aftermarket ones.
In any event I can tell you that the pieces installed on the GT2 are significantly different than the stock blanks that are drilled, re-badged and sold to kids as "performance" items.
Again, even top manufacturers like BMW use fake parts on thier performance cars to make them look fast. And cigarette manufacturers and gun manufacturers still make and sell THEIR products, even though they are known to be dangerous. Saying they wouldn't sell them if they weren't up to par is naievety.
Let me ask the converse of your Porsche question: "If cross drilled or slotted rotors are so great, why do very few manufacturers use them?"
Answer: "There never was an advantage to using these rotors on average street cars. There was, at one time, and advantage on high power race cars. This is no longer true. Making drilled rotors obsolete."
True. And if all you want is that big vintage race car look, then crossdrilled is the way to go. But they will not let your car stop even one inch shorter over proper OEM non-drilled rotors.
This conversation comes up in a lot of places... http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=207758
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=480082
Especially read the last one.
jibby
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ChrisV - We cannot argue with the facts. Your point is well taken... However, I do have a problem with your one comment "This is a predictable response from people that don't know cars very much". This is in regards to comparing the quality of parts that come on very expensive factory made cars... I tend to always compare that way, and I would like to think that I know more then just a little bit about cars. I know Stevechumo knows more then just a little bit about cars, turbo's etc.., so I think you may want to reconsider that comment.
These manufactures like Porsche spend millions of dollars developing the cars for performance and safety. They have experts design the cars, etc.. etc... and I would like to believe there is some truth to the contrary of what you say. Do these Manufactures like Porshce, Infinity, Etc. really want recalls or lawsuits occuring from poorly designed brakes? I am sorry but I still don't think so!!!! If we were talking about some of the inferior car manufactures then maybe, but Porsche? I guess what you are saying then is the makers of these fancy cars don't know much about cars. Toyota factory parts on their top end cars llike the Supra's seem to be top notch in mostly every area of the stock car parts, can you argue that? Over time improvements on cars will always be made from older cars, but newer cars with brakes, come on.....I still think the drilled and slotted rotors are not that bad for street use...Damn it!!! I say damn it because I am stuck with these drilled and slotted rotors and I ain't changing back....Crash and burn baby!!!!!
These manufactures like Porsche spend millions of dollars developing the cars for performance and safety. They have experts design the cars, etc.. etc... and I would like to believe there is some truth to the contrary of what you say. Do these Manufactures like Porshce, Infinity, Etc. really want recalls or lawsuits occuring from poorly designed brakes? I am sorry but I still don't think so!!!! If we were talking about some of the inferior car manufactures then maybe, but Porsche? I guess what you are saying then is the makers of these fancy cars don't know much about cars. Toyota factory parts on their top end cars llike the Supra's seem to be top notch in mostly every area of the stock car parts, can you argue that? Over time improvements on cars will always be made from older cars, but newer cars with brakes, come on.....I still think the drilled and slotted rotors are not that bad for street use...Damn it!!! I say damn it because I am stuck with these drilled and slotted rotors and I ain't changing back....Crash and burn baby!!!!!
JamesN
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How is the brake and rotors going John? Did you manage to fix the problem??
P.S I think both you and ChrisV have a good point. Lets not argue guys.
P.S I think both you and ChrisV have a good point. Lets not argue guys.
jibby
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Nicely said James......The brakes I am still working on....
xirforever
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I used to drive an LS400, and let me say, the brakes were horrible at best. I put some nice brake pads on there, and it did help, but it still wasnt good enough for me. So i got some slotted rotors, and they did help a lot, and i only got the front rotors this way and i noticed better stopping power. There is point to some of these, whether the nice look of drilled rotors like the MB SL65 uses or like me, just wanting better stopping power with the slotted. To each his own. I autocrossed on those brakes also on a number of events, never saw any cracking. Im not saying it couldnt happen of course, im just saying. Yes i know autocross speeds arent very high, but it adds to the point. Even if they do crack, big deal, get some new ones. It wont be the end of the world and you cant say you werent warned.
I would venture to say they are more expensive, and the OBVIOUS reason of many cars are not track oriented.
ChrisV said:
I would venture to say they are more expensive, and the OBVIOUS reason of many cars are not track oriented.
ChrisV said:
jibby
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Thanks XIR, I too was saying that I changed out my stock OEM rotors to the same sized drilled and slotted rotors and noticed a good improvement in braking. That is why I bought these Supra rotors pre drilled and slotted. I am not trying to argue with anyone, but I know from my experienced the drilled and slotted rotors worked fantastic for me for one year. They clearly out performed the stock rotors..... Now I do agree with ChrisV that these D/S rotors may over time crack or fail faster then the stock OEM's. That is my take on it.....let's move on.
Supra brake swap update - I was testing the braking out on my previous setup today while figuring this Supra swap and I tell you these stock 2 piston brakes stop pretty damn well. I am almost considering not doing the Supra TT swap after all, if you can believe that. However, I will finish what I started. Today I having the new spacers made with a hub sleeve on one end and a tiny lip on the other to keep the Supra Rotors from dancing around. I returned my old adapters to the guy whom I purchased them from and he felt bad and gave me a good deal on these new ones being made. With the 5/16 spacers the wheel won't stick out, however I now need to change out to longer studs to mount the tires with the addition of the 5/16 spacer. There simply is not enough grab on the threads with the stock studs.. . Unbelievable.....
at: This may take a while, to be continued.........
Supra brake swap update - I was testing the braking out on my previous setup today while figuring this Supra swap and I tell you these stock 2 piston brakes stop pretty damn well. I am almost considering not doing the Supra TT swap after all, if you can believe that. However, I will finish what I started. Today I having the new spacers made with a hub sleeve on one end and a tiny lip on the other to keep the Supra Rotors from dancing around. I returned my old adapters to the guy whom I purchased them from and he felt bad and gave me a good deal on these new ones being made. With the 5/16 spacers the wheel won't stick out, however I now need to change out to longer studs to mount the tires with the addition of the 5/16 spacer. There simply is not enough grab on the threads with the stock studs.. . Unbelievable.....
at: This may take a while, to be continued.........
stevechumo
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Let us know how the Supra brakes turn out. So you went back to the spacer shop? The owner is a very respectable man. Good luck!
jibby
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- Location
- Santa Monica, Ca.
Yeah Steve, this old timer is O.K. he use to be a race car drive back in his day, raced all over the world and grew up in the San Fernando Valley when it was just Orange Groves and not all Mexican families today.. He's a good guy and I will tell you he has gotten very rich off making these adaptors over the years, he is on EBAY, internet, and is doing high volume sales. A smart business man to go along with his trade. This guy has all the latest machinery to make and mold these adaptors and he said that is the key in his business along with the marketing efforts.. .....See ya
