Starter motor slippage.... Or something

[-Nemesis-]

Ok, here's the go, and it's really starting to shyte me.

Basically, sometimes I turn the key and the starter screams it's head off as it doesn't engage. At first I thought is was the earth not being good enough, so i boosted it, which appeared to help. But it's doing it again randomly.

I've now noticed that if it does it (sometimes - rarely- it will start on another turn of the key or 6) the best way for me to get it to fire is to take the park brake off, put it in a gear and get out and push the truck hard to get the flywheel to move a bit. Get back in, turn it and she works fine.

So, I assume now that the starter is slipping. so a few questions:

Who else is running a CRS manual flywheel and ring gear set up?

When you turn the ignition on, I can hear the starter motor or some solenoid engage for about 2 seconds. Then the ECU clicks, and I turn the key. Is this normal?

When I fitted the flywheel, I left the spacer on the back of the motor, then tried the starter by pulling it out. It wouldn't engage enough, so I removed the spacer and re fitted. The starter motor extended perfectly from memory.

Also, when installing, the teeth on the starter, and the ring gear were both perfect. So i'm guessing the starter just isn't finding a way into the ring gear sometimes. It's more embarrassing then anything.

Ideas?

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Nemesis,
Have the flywheel teeth got lead ins on them? it needs to be on each tooth on the rhs from the engine side of the flywheel.

Muzz

 

[-Nemesis-]

This is from last week before I sealed it. The photo's not the best, i'm not entirely sure what i'm looking for anyways.....

 

[Zuffen]

Nemesis,

I'd suggest "unsealing" the cover plate and use a large flat bladed screwdriver to slowly rotate the flywheel by inserting it in the teeth and levering it sideways.

Look at the teeth and note any that are butchered or damaged in any way. If you can post aphoto of any damaged teeth we can probably suggest the best fix.

I think you will have a few damaged teeth in one spot. When the engine stops rotating in that spot the starter plays up. When it stops in a spot like it has now it should crank no problem.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Which would beg the question of how they got damaged................

I'll do that, but not today, sick of working under it for the minute..... Thanks Rod.

 

[Peewee]

Mine was doing this (amongst other things).

You need to run a starter relay.
Relay has ~12guage from battery, ~12guage to starter solenoid, and ~12guage from the key.
Most of the time the key contacts are good enough to start the car, and they will burn out over time.

If that doesn't work (or you already have one) pull the manifolds off, and pull the starter solenoid apart. The copper contacts inside will be nicely burnt, and need sanding. A Dremel works perfect here.

Also, as you have done, earths are important. I have 2 4gauge earths off the block to the chassis.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Ooh ooh ooh that's so good to hear mate, I hope mines the same...

I've been getting depressed about what work may be involved for this, after just getting it on the road.

I had thought the earth thing fixed it at first. I'm only running the factory earth from the motor, and a second bigger one from the battery to the chassis. I might grab a couple more and attach them from the block to the chassis, potential cause you think?

 

[Peewee]

I'd say a corroded/old starter motor is probably the main cause.

 

[Lambo]

Hi Guys, From what ive been told the starters also have a problem where the starter bearings jams on the shaft, it then spins the bearing in the housing, this could cause the starter to not spin fast enough to throw out the gear fast enough, so it does't engange properly.So over time you will get tooth decay worth a look.

Regards
Lambno

 

[-Nemesis-]

So, how big a job is it to get to that damn starter?

I have good mechanical aptitude, but have never taken a 1UZ down before. Apart from the water pump & timing belt...

 

[Lambo]

Hi Nemesis, I believe it's not an easy job, i have not done it myself, this article explains whats involved.
http://www.lextreme.com/starter.html

Regards
Lambo

 

[Zuffen]

Whilst it sounds complicated it isn't really.

The upper and lower manifolds lift off as a complete unit. You don't need to remove injectors and with a bit of a fiddle you don't need to unplug much wiring.

About the hardest part will be accessing the 2 starter mounting bolts.

I used an engine crane to SLOWLY lift mine to get my starter out. It just made it easier and isn't essential.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah I was just looking through the Toyota manual and it wants you to undo, unplug and disassemble every line, hose, injector, rail and plug there is.....

 

[-Nemesis-]

My truck appears to use the standard wiring etc. The +terminal has one big guage (maybe 4?) black cable coming off it, and another that's probably about 12 guage. It's a bit hard to trace them properly without pulling stuff out. Can anyone tell me which one would normally go to the starter? And where it normally runs? And if it stops over anywhere on the way etc?

Mines supposedly a Celsior from '92.................

 

[jibbby]

My SC400 has been collecting dust for the past few months after the starter motor died out on me.. It's now time to get that motor turning over again..

As of tomorrow I will be attempting to do this starter motor replacement job.. Going to try and save $900 bucks.. Wish me luck fellas and thanks for the needed info in this thread Big help..

Gonna buy the snap on ratcheting Crowfoot wrench today.. Little unsettled about the hard part of removing the starter motor once you gain access it.. Reading you may need to hoist the engine up a bit or something to that effect? I don't have a hoist.. Hmmmm? I guess I'm about to find out the hard way..

Let the games begin!!!!