Solid or Simi Solid Engine Mounts

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I have the entire megan poly mount set and so far no torn bushings. Even with new OEM bushings I would be able to "rock" the engine back and forth an inch or 2... the stock rubber mounts were meant to be very soft to reduce vibration even further. With the Megans I cannot move the engine at all.

I have a friend with a 1995 silva with the KA engine and if you dont know, its only half counterweighted from the factory so it has horrible harmonics as is. He installed solid mounts and OMG it was unbearable. The whole dash would vibrate like a tuning fork at idle. I think solids on a UZ would be bearable but if your picky with this sort of thing, stay away.

Only solid mounts i run are billet aluminum mounts for my steering rack. This made a huge improvement in feel and response. I also plan to install solid subframe mounts and diff mounts. www.battleversion.com
 
I wouldn't on a daily driver..
I find holding the left side mount / engine down helps with std
mounts on most cars helps also...
As this side of the engine lifts or twists when accelerating...
Don't forget trans mount as these when lose cause issues up front...

S simple seat belt "type" strap works well....
 
Only solid mounts i run are billet aluminum mounts for my steering rack. This made a huge improvement in feel and response. I also plan to install solid subframe mounts and diff mounts. www.battleversion.com

How tough was it to get to the steering rack to swap out the mounts? I may order the Delrin ones from Battle.

Also, XR8TT, its for a race car, so its not like we're idling at stop lights. I like the strap idea though.
 
How tough was it to get to the steering rack to swap out the mounts? I may order the Delrin ones from Battle.

Its a piece of cake. First thing you should know, his "delrin steering mounts" are actually billet aluminum. I would rather have the solid ones personally but I would reccomend sending him an e-mail asking specifically what material you want. As for installation I never even removed the rack. Unbolt all 4 bolts so the rack is free but leave the tire rods and steering spline, cooler lines attahed. I used a simple 2-jaw puller from under the car to press in/out both the old and new mounts. Installing the aluminum mounts requried some wd40 and a rubber mallet to tap them in. Note that the passenger side rubber donut is note included so I just left it alone (mine was in good condition).
 
I made some polyurethane ones... I had solids and they were fine, didnt notice much vibration.. but I thought polyurethane would be a little more forgiving.

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