SC400 1UZ into 1988 RX7

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

capn

New Member
Messages
58
Location
Charlotte NC, USA
Hey everyone!

Well I have finally recieved My engine and I am taking it down to a short block to asses its condition and so far I have been given a very very clean motor. This swap is going into a 1988 RX7 turboII chassis and is getting a T56 manual 6 speed transmisison with help from Dellow auto and Mcleod transmissions.

But after the step of taking the engine down I will be getting my Microtech LT8 EMS and wiring it up to my RX7 chassis. I will also be regasketing all the setuff I have taken apart.

But if anyone is in the states and could hook me up with a oil level sending unit that would rock. I dont feel like paying Lexus' outrageous price of $360 some odd dollars for it I am also in the market for some electrical connectors especially the ones that connect to the little stepper motor on the front of the Upper intake, and some injector connectors.

Also does anyone know how close the rush Import headers are to the block? I am at a premium with space on this conversion and wondering if those would be a nice solution to my woes.

But now its time for the pictures.


PS

If someone knows if the writing on the crank was something toyota did please tell me, because I think someone may have wrote it on there when they resealed the oil pan?
 
Well today before I have to sprint off to work I Have test fitted the engine in the car and there is a decent amount of room say for the porpotioning vavle. But the engine is going to Give me ample room to mount to the RX7 subframe with relative ease. The only proplem is the tube that hangs down on front of the engine along with the Oil filter mount interferes with the Sway bar, and the hood clearence might be a small issue, but the biggest fitment issue will be concerning the oil pan to rack clearence other then that this will be a straight forward weld/bolt in.

and now for the pictures
 
looks good, more details on the t-56 to 1uz adaptation, those things are getting cheaper on ebay everyday. I think you may be the first to do the 1uz to t-56, i'd love to know what dellow and mclead are providing you.
 
WDoherty said:
looks good, more details on the t-56 to 1uz adaptation, those things are getting cheaper on ebay everyday. I think you may be the first to do the 1uz to t-56, i'd love to know what dellow and mclead are providing you.
well this is how the conversion goes. Apparently Dellow auto makes a bellhousing for a TKO 600 transmisison, good for the tremec guys bad for me. But mcleod makes an adapter from a TKO 600 tranny to a T56 tranny adapter plate, so this works to my advantage. I end up using two adapters to fit the T56 to my engine and the T56 has A LOT of gearing options so I can get either a .5 6th gear ot a .62 6th gear depending on wheter I want to set this car more for road race or daily comuting with a good overdrive and enough gear to have fun with down low.
 
Looks great man, should be a very nice package and a good power to weight ratio.

What exact issues are you having with the oil level sender? I am assuming that you want to use the factory RX-7 warning light. Is this correcty?
 
on other thing that you might want to research a little more is your tranny situation. The reason is because the T-56 input shaft a quite a bit shorter then the TKO units so by using a TKO bellhousing and an adaptor, you might end up very short from the tranny input shaft engauging with the crank shaft pilot.
 
cjsupra90 said:
on other thing that you might want to research a little more is your tranny situation. The reason is because the T-56 input shaft a quite a bit shorter then the TKO units so by using a TKO bellhousing and an adaptor, you might end up very short from the tranny input shaft engauging with the crank shaft pilot.
that's what i was thinking about as well + a flywheel solution.
 
please let me know its almost easier finding a tII around here than a supra turbo. This can just add to the list of cars to use with the engine. Rx-7 TIIs handle great too.
 
FYI no point in getting the connector for the stepper motor, as the Microtech cannot control it (unless you make your own electronics to do it)

That little 'tube' on the front of the motor is the cam belt tensioner.

If the oil filter adaptor is fouling the LS400 and the Sequoia use different shaped ones.
 
cjsupra90 said:
Looks great man, should be a very nice package and a good power to weight ratio.

What exact issues are you having with the oil level sender? I am assuming that you want to use the factory RX-7 warning light. Is this correcty?
yeah I want to use the RX7 warning light, But my sensor and connector were damaged in shipping so I have to get a new one regardless.

on other thing that you might want to research a little more is your tranny situation. The reason is because the T-56 input shaft a quite a bit shorter then the TKO units so by using a TKO bellhousing and an adaptor, you might end up very short from the tranny input shaft engauging with the crank shaft pilot.
From my information the input shafts are about the same length, the TKO has a 183mm shaft while the only dimensions for the T56 tranny are 154mm for the bellhousing and the shaft sticks just a small bit past that. So I am hoping they are the same overall. But My local machine/transmission shop can get me a larger input shaft so if worse comes to worse I will end up buying a larger input shaft.

WDoherty said:
what about a flywheel, will dello make it suit a t-56 clutch?
It doesnt really matter I just need them to make a flywheel that I con bolt something generic too, I could realistically have toyota pressure plate and Dellow auto flywheel with a Disc that has the provisions for the 1-1/8th 26 spline T56. But Depending on my constraints I will most likely go with a Flywheel that will fit the T56 if I can, and of not I'll get something else.


please let me know its almost easier finding a tII around here than a supra turbo. This can just add to the list of cars to use with the engine. Rx-7 TIIs handle great too.
Oh yeah, thing handles great. But there is someone round that parts that has already done this swap using the R154 gearbox, I think his name is hiper?

FYI no point in getting the connector for the stepper motor, as the Microtech cannot control it (unless you make your own electronics to do it)

That little 'tube' on the front of the motor is the cam belt tensioner.

If the oil filter adaptor is fouling the LS400 and the Sequoia use different shaped ones.
Good to know, just one more thing I can cross off my list of "useless intake manifold ****"

But the oil filter plate its just wrong place if it was mounted maybe another inch or so forward then I would have no problem. What I might end up doing is getting a different swap bar setup to clear the things that are interfering.
 
OK so tonight I continue my cleaning of the block on heads and assesment of the motors condition.

I did a compression test and 120psi across the board, But I did find that the rotors are cracked so thats one more thing I have to purchase to freshen the motor up. The timing belt also had a tooth that is becoming frayed, but it is a moot point because its getting replaced any way.

I did become curious tonight, I originally said I would be polishing the block, but I just had to take a look at silver sprayed on the engine with some of my extra paint. I must say that Pasti-kote Silver base coat looks AMAZING on the engine. The pictures I have attached really DO NOT give the color justice on the engine, Left side is no paint, right side is silver coat.
 
Thats pretty awesome Peewee. I cant wait to get mine all painted up, I am painting the block silver and then I cam getting the vavle covers powdercoated gloss black and then If i am feeling lucky, get some custom CNC sparkplug covers :)

But today I test fitted the engine again with the pan and Intake manifold on this time and less junk on the front of the motor. And the same issues come up there, The porpotioning valve is interfereing, and the engine isnt centered because of that interference. The oil filter mount was removed because of the interference, so I am opting for a remote filter. the tensioner does not interfere with the sway bar now and the pan is spot on with the rack. But one last interference is the tranny tunnel, It seems that the tunnel will have to be recesed just a little to mount the T56 unless the belhousing solves my problem.

Next thing to do is to get some brackets scienced out and made and Mount the damn thing...

now for the pictures
 
damn, that seems to fit real nicely in there.

Making me think of my next project after the Supra is done.


About the oil light stuff, I'll look into tomorrow when I am at the shop and have stuff in front of me.
 
cjsupra90 said:
damn, that seems to fit real nicely in there.

Making me think of my next project after the Supra is done.


About the oil light stuff, I'll look into tomorrow when I am at the shop and have stuff in front of me.
Well I have looked into my rx7 FSM and see that when connector is grounded oil light is iluminated. and the sensor itself DOES NOT have conductivity in the upper position and DOES have continutiy in the lower postion.

Hope that helps in your research
 
sorry that it took me so long to get back to you.

The way that the RX-7 sensor works is what I thought that the 1UZ senor did also, but mine does nothing. (might be bad) The 1uz sensor that I have has continuity no matter what the possition is. The strange part is that the resistance DOES NOT change either when the position is changed. I am pretty sure that it is just a switch (on or off /// continuity or no continuity) type unit and mine has a short or something, therefor you should be able to just wire it just as the RX-7 OEM one is. Knowing that you are having to buy a new one, just check the continuity and float position just as the RX-7 unit.
 
well I have been so busy lately I have had niether the money or the time to work on my car. In my absense it seems that one of my cylinders decided to give me a nice ring of rust while I was going to test my oil pump. So I decided not to force the crank and take the heads off and remove whatever obstruction ailed me. It ended up being exactly what I thought, a nice ring of rust stopping the number 6 cylinder from reacing TDC. So I took some steel wool gave the rust a nice exfoliating massage and sprayed WD-40 in the cylinders to keep them wet and hopefully prevent more rust.

This also gave me an opportunity to get a little head work done, so I ended up port matching 1 head and deshrouding/smoothing the combustion chambers a little ( I am going to smooth the ports just a little more). This also gives me a reason to buy a new head gasket and some new ARP studs for the engine, and Possibly some new high compression pistons
veryhappy.gif
.

So depending on how money is flowing this college semster I will be getting the block honed for new pistons (hopefully) and maybe even new rods for my application (yet I still think the 1UZ stock rod will handle my NA application/needs). So either way if I get new pistons I will be taking out the bottum end which will mean new bearings and ARP fasteners. SO MORE TO FOLLOW

now pictures
 


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